Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

having an issue with my clutch, put a brand new slave and master cylinder in my 33. clutch was perfect for around 600klms and then is started picking up right near the floor and now i can't even get it into gear.

just wondering if anyone knows what to look for?

my first opinion was air in the system, not being bled properly, but then it lasted 600klms..

anyone knows how to troubleshoot would really appreciate it..

Shane

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/367029-rb25det-clutch-drama/
Share on other sites

I would bleed the master and slave just to make sure there is no air in the system, or a leak. Did you replace the clutch line?

I know the master and slave are new but new doesnt always mean it will work. better off catching it now if thats what it is and claiming waranty. If you bleed everything and then its still the same then you probably have a clutch problem. If it works all good then gradually goes away again then you have a problem somewhere between your pedal and the clutch fork. Fork is moving, but may not be moving through the full motion

Well it sounds like your clutch hasnt started slipping, sounds like theres not enough travel to engage the pressure plate to disengage the clutch

so in that case.... some sort of pivot ball issue? I'm not sure what happens when the pivot ball fails, I know it leads to clutch issues. You could maybe grab a torch and pull the rubber boot for the fork aside and see if theres anything obvious. But I'm not sure how much you will see. How much travel does the slave have?

Did you adjust the freeplay in the clutch pushrod?

You may also have cracked the pivot on the thrust fork so that it will open up when the pedal is depressed, reducing the ability of the thrust bearing to properly disengage the clutch.

Well it sounds like your clutch hasnt started slipping, sounds like theres not enough travel to engage the pressure plate to disengage the clutch

so in that case.... some sort of pivot ball issue? I'm not sure what happens when the pivot ball fails, I know it leads to clutch issues. You could maybe grab a torch and pull the rubber boot for the fork aside and see if theres anything obvious. But I'm not sure how much you will see. How much travel does the slave have?

When you snap the pivot, the pedal will go to the floor and not come back up without help. Had to drive home like it was an 18spd road ranger box :laugh:

Yeah i had that happen to me recently and my clutch had only done about the same km's.. brand new.

I checked the pivot/fork, new slave+master.. everything appeared to be fine, so last weekend with a couple mates off came the box..

only to find that the pressure plate bolts where not done up, well i lie, 3 where.. 6 wherent.. so the plate was sitting on the piss...

Tightened them up and box back on, bam! no problems ;)

Who did ur clutch?

Yeah i had that happen to me recently and my clutch had only done about the same km's.. brand new.

I checked the pivot/fork, new slave+master.. everything appeared to be fine, so last weekend with a couple mates off came the box..

only to find that the pressure plate bolts where not done up, well i lie, 3 where.. 6 wherent.. so the plate was sitting on the piss...

Tightened them up and box back on, bam! no problems ;)

Who did ur clutch?

What the hell! Who did your clutch??

When you snap the pivot, the pedal will go to the floor and not come back up without help. Had to drive home like it was an 18spd road ranger box :laugh:

I should have known that lol...... Now that you've said it I feel like an Idiot for not remembering haha

I put some lube on mine when I put my box back in last time, no more squeaking, and the clutch feels a bit nicer :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yes the gear for the R33/34 is different, it is red and has a different number of teeth. My part didn't come with that gear though, so I don't know how many teeth are on the red one. You'd have to reuse the 260RS/R33 gear, as long as it's not destroyed.   Haha, as unfortunate as that might be it was working fine for about the first 1500km I've had the car for now.
    • Update all   thanks to the workshop manual, it lead me back to checking fuses as mentioned central locking and door open lights worked when acc was switched on. diagram attached shows two points of power 1. ACC and 2.  Batt with the later being fused (#28) I did check the fuses using a multimeter but I must have stuffed that up also. Went back and checked the batt fuse in interior fuse box and you wouldn’t believe it… a blown fuse. replaced fuse and everything is now working as it should including the climate control   thank you all with your positive insight and knowledge.    
    • Where is the warning "That this thread is super old"   I just went into a 5 year old thread, went to do a reply, and couldn't see anywhere obvious a warning of it being super old
    • Duncan is correct. Pitwork (and Toyota's own cheap brand "Drive Joy") were primarily created as brands to sell other manufacturers car parts. It would be weird if Nissan sold parts for Toyota vehicles with a Nissan logo on it, so they created Pitwork to sell parts for other brans Toyota, Honda etc. They are not the same as Nissan genuine parts, although they *do* meet Nissan's standards for replacement parts. They aren't supposed to be a substitute for genuine parts, but a cheaper alternative that is better than Ebay fake parts from you-know-where.
    • Thanks GTSBoy, much easier to work with it now it's free!  
×
×
  • Create New...