Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

having an issue with my clutch, put a brand new slave and master cylinder in my 33. clutch was perfect for around 600klms and then is started picking up right near the floor and now i can't even get it into gear.

just wondering if anyone knows what to look for?

my first opinion was air in the system, not being bled properly, but then it lasted 600klms..

anyone knows how to troubleshoot would really appreciate it..

Shane

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/367029-rb25det-clutch-drama/
Share on other sites

I would bleed the master and slave just to make sure there is no air in the system, or a leak. Did you replace the clutch line?

I know the master and slave are new but new doesnt always mean it will work. better off catching it now if thats what it is and claiming waranty. If you bleed everything and then its still the same then you probably have a clutch problem. If it works all good then gradually goes away again then you have a problem somewhere between your pedal and the clutch fork. Fork is moving, but may not be moving through the full motion

Well it sounds like your clutch hasnt started slipping, sounds like theres not enough travel to engage the pressure plate to disengage the clutch

so in that case.... some sort of pivot ball issue? I'm not sure what happens when the pivot ball fails, I know it leads to clutch issues. You could maybe grab a torch and pull the rubber boot for the fork aside and see if theres anything obvious. But I'm not sure how much you will see. How much travel does the slave have?

Did you adjust the freeplay in the clutch pushrod?

You may also have cracked the pivot on the thrust fork so that it will open up when the pedal is depressed, reducing the ability of the thrust bearing to properly disengage the clutch.

Well it sounds like your clutch hasnt started slipping, sounds like theres not enough travel to engage the pressure plate to disengage the clutch

so in that case.... some sort of pivot ball issue? I'm not sure what happens when the pivot ball fails, I know it leads to clutch issues. You could maybe grab a torch and pull the rubber boot for the fork aside and see if theres anything obvious. But I'm not sure how much you will see. How much travel does the slave have?

When you snap the pivot, the pedal will go to the floor and not come back up without help. Had to drive home like it was an 18spd road ranger box :laugh:

Yeah i had that happen to me recently and my clutch had only done about the same km's.. brand new.

I checked the pivot/fork, new slave+master.. everything appeared to be fine, so last weekend with a couple mates off came the box..

only to find that the pressure plate bolts where not done up, well i lie, 3 where.. 6 wherent.. so the plate was sitting on the piss...

Tightened them up and box back on, bam! no problems ;)

Who did ur clutch?

Yeah i had that happen to me recently and my clutch had only done about the same km's.. brand new.

I checked the pivot/fork, new slave+master.. everything appeared to be fine, so last weekend with a couple mates off came the box..

only to find that the pressure plate bolts where not done up, well i lie, 3 where.. 6 wherent.. so the plate was sitting on the piss...

Tightened them up and box back on, bam! no problems ;)

Who did ur clutch?

What the hell! Who did your clutch??

When you snap the pivot, the pedal will go to the floor and not come back up without help. Had to drive home like it was an 18spd road ranger box :laugh:

I should have known that lol...... Now that you've said it I feel like an Idiot for not remembering haha

I put some lube on mine when I put my box back in last time, no more squeaking, and the clutch feels a bit nicer :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...