Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

My wing mirror button looks half arsed anyway, looks pretty agricultural, just a push button with a cheap sticker on it.

Easy to fix - just get an expensive looking sticker for it :laugh: . Or you could replace it entirely with a more expensive push button. I must admit, it doesn't look to be the right quality compared to the rest of the interior.

  • Replies 43
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I figured it must have been an after market mod, but doesn't bother me too much. I mean, who spends that much time looking that far down their dash?!

As for alarm, got a few options, thanks for all the feedback. See if I can get something rigged up temporarily.

Hey Chris, my point was that I have heard your views (on the alarms etc that come installed on our cars) a few times before & I knew you would be of the opinion to rip it out. To be honest, if mine started playing up & I couldn't easily fix it, I'd replace it as well. But I would have a go first - that's just me :happy:.

this is why I remove them :

post-2209-0-18609000-1308002948_thumb.jpg

given most of these cars are 8-10 yrs old now those things work loose and create a LOT of headaches. of the units I have pulled out there was no adjustment on them and on at least two of hte variants I have pulled out one of them cuts the CAN lines with scotch locks!!

take that how you will but given the amount of crap I see on a daily basis the last thing I want is scotch locks (the blue things in that imgae for those of you not paying attention) cutting the main comms network in my car.

the image in question was a V35.

I'm going to investigate a Mongoose MAP80G, which is supposed to be a 'factory alarm upgrade'. Fingers crossed I can get it working through the factory key, like it's supposed to. See how we go.

I'm going to investigate a Mongoose MAP80G, which is supposed to be a 'factory alarm upgrade'. Fingers crossed I can get it working through the factory key, like it's supposed to. See how we go.

The problem i found when trying to find a 'Factory Upgrade' alarm was that you get an alarm but no immobilization. If you want an alarm with an immobilizer you will have to go full after market and loose the functionality of the buttons on the standard key.

Weird, isn't it?

MAP80G has 2 point immobilisation, M80G has 3. I don't get it.

Still Aus standard though. If I can keep the original buttons I will.

You going to install it your self? Its probably the only thing I have never done my self, will more than likely get GT Autosound to do the install. :)

I'm looking at getting Brad (ducati02) to do it. Did a great job on everything else wiring related, I can trust him to do a decent job.

If he decides he doesn't want to do it, I'll probably get GT Autosound to do it. They're second on the list, heard some great reports.

Weird, isn't it?

MAP80G has 2 point immobilisation, M80G has 3. I don't get it.

Still Aus standard though. If I can keep the original buttons I will.

why bother?? if you have ONE working key you are really screwing yourself. when that key fails how are you going to start the car?

if its done correctly with a proper standalone alarm you CAN still use both. the keyless side of things will still work BUT the alarm remote will also control the locks.

think about it before you waste the money.

I had a kid ages ago drop one of htese on to a R34 onlu to get it pulled when the keys failed. he HAD a decent alarm on it originally but hated fobs. that is what got him in to trouble.

stock key failed car no go , installer gets a phone call..

  • 2 weeks later...

Ok so I got back from Melbourne, and after a week with the car battery disconnected, it seemed fine when I reconnected the battery, parked it out the front, and left it there for 2.5 hours.

Then I went for a drive, around 20 minutes, parked for half an hour or so, then drove back, another 20 minutes or so.

Parked it in my drive way, was fine for another hour or so, then it went off.

So I disarmed it (although the buttons on the remote seemed to have bugger all effect, i.e. pushing unlock didn't stop it from going off), then rearmed it. It went off again.

So I disarmed/unlocked it, and left it. Within 5 minutes it went off again. Despite being unlocked/disarmed.

In the end the only way to get it to stop going off permanently was to disconnect the battery. Even then it gave a pathetic chirp once, which could have been death throws as the capacitors drained.

So if its going off regardless of whether it's armed or disarmed, is there any fix besides battery disconnect?

Leon: I haven't tested the battery yet, but I will on the weekend. I find it hard to believe it could be the battery if there are no other issues though. Cranks and fires fine, no obvious issues whatsoever. Will test regardless though.

Ive got a m20 mongoose in mine, it's just an immibiliser with a vercinity sensor fob that disarms when my keys go near the ignition. It works really well except my spare fob wasn't programed so it doesn't work :(. Just an option if you want to keep your stock buttons.

Edited by lilcrash

I know, I know. I've booked it in to be removed and replaced with Auto Perfection, a SAUSA sponsor. Sounds like they've got a decent rep in the SA section, should be fine.

I called another recommended place, and they wanted to leave the stock alarm in and fix it before installing an aftermarket system, and as a result couldn't give me a firm price. Didn't like the sound of that.

The only problem is the earliest I could get in was next weekend, so that still leaves me looking for a temporary solution.

What issues would I cause disconnecting the siren? Be a hell of a lot easier than dealing with disconnecting the battery constantly... Another suggestion I got was change the horn fuse, since that was where it was suggested it drew its power from.

Any thoughts would be great, so I can stop locking it with the bonnet open, then disconnecting the battery...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • (it is a brand new ported mellings pump) I suspect the lack of pressure is due to the leak. It was *not* that low in other logs of oil pressure in the past. It wasn't that hot either, but not far off.
    • Would a Mellings oil pump be a viable option  From my time with a LS, and talking to tuners and LS specialists, the "weak" OEM oil pump is one of the first things they recommend to swap out if I was going to give the engine any high RPM I opted for a Mellings high volume, with the high pressure springs and I never had a issue with it Cost wise they are not expensive in the scheme of things 
    • Just bought a 2002 Stagea 250tRS VR-X Four AERO VQ25DET and spent the last two weekends cleaning and detailing it.. still have to do the wheels and the engine bay but the rest of it came up nice. Imported 2011 to S.A. and I'm the third owner since it was imported. I met the guy who brought it over, he went to Japan and picked out the car, bought it and ordered the wheels. He also gave me a list of stuff he did to the car with receipts. Coil overs (I have the original springs), 3" exhaust from the dump pipe back no cat, Custom dump pipe,(I have the original exhaust), Plenum spacer, 18" custom Work XSA wheels (need restoring, I've made a start..), Shift kit put through the 5 speed tiptronic auto, TV and menus/screens changed to english, Australian DTV tuner installed in rear. I've just had four new discs and new pads as well as all the fluids including the brake fluid replaced. I have all the receipts for the last 15 years and the import papers in a nice folder. Car looks great, goes like hell but fuel economy is not a thing lol.. pics next..
    • I ended up in this rut again lol, and used a shit ton of filler. One thing I can't understand is, even after using a big long block and going in long X pattern strokes, I always end up at bare metal again with no filler, and my repair started at one end of the door and now I've chased my tail to almost the other end of the door. I was thinking of hitting the panel with a hammer where it might be a high spot and making everything low then filling it, I did this on a small section on my other door by mistake and I think I fixed it lol. Is this a bad idea? The other thing is with guidecoat, whether it's the powder or spray, after I sand all the guide coat off, it doesn't reveal anything for me in terms of high spots and low spots and makes it especially hard when it's bare metal (at least in powdered form), am I doing something wrong here, or likely a high spot I keep going over and creating valleys? Lastly, stupid question but, is it possible that after sanding if I only sand over the filler area where I know to be a dent that it's impossible for me to dig into that dent? Unless there are other problems which I missed.  
×
×
  • Create New...