Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

heres a big update

engine and gearbox is in, all mounts made by me, ive made up a set of custom dump pipes which have come up absolutely mint, and just get around the skyline steering arm!!!

got a 5 puck carbonic button clutch with ultralight flywheel, hd pressure plate

the speedo drive from the skyline was a perfect match to the r154 gearbox AWESOME!

the soarer throttle cable was nearlly identical to the skyline one apart from length, so with minor modification it fit AWESOME!

Lots of stuff matches up between nissan and toyota which is making the conversion very easy.

not long now and itll all be running.

100_1156.jpg

100_1158.jpg

100_1163.jpg

100_1174.jpg

100_1177.jpg

100_1178.jpg

100_1182-1.jpg

  • Replies 61
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

  • 2 weeks later...

yeah it looks like its meant to be there!

update:

all fluids filled.

sway bar bushes replaced with nolathane and whiteline items.

clutch fluid line made up, fitted and system bled.

batter clamp made and fitted.

power steering lines made and fitted.

intercooler brackets made and fitted.

also stripped interior.

fitted screws in the dash where there were that many missing i dont know how anything was staying in place... well things sort of werent!!

fitted mint condition front seats from a good wreck

fitted as new carpet from the same good wreck.

modified gear shifter and fitted.

karchered and disinfected rear seats.

car is ready for wiring.... anyone in newcastle interested in doing this?! lol

  • 4 weeks later...

ok so took the car for its first drive the other day.

its a bit of a weapon..

ive been round the block 3 times and i cant get traction until 4th gear!!!!!!!!!!1

thats with 90% tread tyres.

soon as it hits boost in 1st 2nd and 3rd it just frys them

definately going to need some good semi slicks

very very happy with the car!!!

I would kill for a 1j 32, I'm wanting to convert mine to a 1j later on when it inevitably gets yellowed and becomes a track/drift car. How much roughly would this set one back if not needing to get it engineered/registered.

Edited by are bee's
  • 1 month later...

i made my dump pipes, iam a mechanic at an exhaust shop

I wish my stock turbo 1J would do that...might have something to do with my car weighing 1800kgs lol.

Anyhoo who did your dump pipe? I really like it

ive spent about 7 grand on the conversion but that includes coilovers etc.

I would kill for a 1j 32, I'm wanting to convert mine to a 1j later on when it inevitably gets yellowed and becomes a track/drift car. How much roughly would this set one back if not needing to get it engineered/registered.

ok ive now resprayed the car

got the conversion engineered

as of today car is now registered and it is an absolute mental and fun car to drive!

very happy with it

the exhaust is twin 2.5 inch from the turbos the whole way to the back of the car. (2.5inch off each turbo) all it has are one straight through resonator on each pipe at the rear.

sounds like a rotor on full noise!

ill see what i can do about a vid

Conflicting emotions........ Have always been a toyota man owned a Gt4 celica my old man has a tt soarer which ive had alot of fun in too but now im a nissan owner lol! Nice work mate the 1jz is 1 of the best donks ever made! If there was as much aftermarket support for the yotas as the nissans i probably never woulda jumped on the nissan boat. Nice build though buddy bet shes a screamer in the lil 32 the old boys snoarer pops along well with few lil tweaks and the 32 probably weighs as much as the 2 doors of the soarer hahaha

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...