Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 136
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

-10s are the same as GT-RS's - 450rwkw+

If 2530's will make 400-420rwkw, and the GT-RS are bigger again... Then pretty easy to set expectation when there are a few RS results making some BIG numbers in the dyno threads.

4" CAT will be a restriction on a turbo setup that large. Have a look @ any CAT, it can't NOT be a restriction and hence if you wish to run one you'll need a larger one for good performance.

Realistically though, for best performance with those turbos, only option is a 4" straight pipe - no CAT.

Remember RS's are internally gated so you need a lot of flow.

Realistically RS's are not really a great turbo anyway (hoping to see Piggaz comparo soon of -10s vs -5s).. That will hold a very interesting story. Same as Gav from WA, he picked up something like 1200rpm extra response doing the same step back in turbo size... Such a boost in the mid range is just insane for a street car

The engine is fairly responsive considering its not a stroker due to being fully race balanced and light flywheel.

This is with 700cc injectors maxed out. Engine is built for 30 psi. If e85 becomes available Should i fit bigger injectors , 4 inch exhaust and a tune for e85? It has a power fc djetro. What sort of power should i expect?

Edited by Griffin

come on, you can't say coming on 20psi @ 5000rpm is responsive! :spank:

700cc injectors are already too small for -10s... You need ~1000cc to flow the power they are capable of on PUMP.

Add in E85 - you need ID2000 (2000cc), and a good fuel system to back it up.

I mean you won't have 20psi before 5000rpm with -10s on a 2.6ltr

That can't really be put in the same sentence as responsive (Wait till Piggaz see's this thread lol)

At a minimum you'll need injectors, exhaust.

I'd also say to make the most you'll need super cams, heaps of head-work, bigger valves - basic terms - the works, and then some.

You'd be aiming for at least 25psi as a starting point as well. Depends on if the motor will take that however with timing in it. Totally depends on how it was built. Might find its not even possible.

All of this assumes you have a expensive bottom end too. Just your normal standard rebuild really ain't going to take that, especially the RPM part. You would need to spin to at least 8500-9000 to get use outta the power range on the 2.6

Oh god no. RS's in a 2.6L would have to be the worst low mount setup out there. They are terrible on a (my) 2.8. Sure you might make a nice big fat number starting with a 4 but you are going to be belted by a well balanced car with little baby -7's or -9's.

On the pommie forum they seem to love the '2.8 + RS' setup. It is not the setup to have. On a dirty thirty they are not bad... But they are not great either. Once again te next size down in turbo size would make for a much quicker car. Yes you might loose a bee's dick in top end (20 HP) but the midrange will more than make up for it.

It's up to you but area under the curve wins!

Oh god no. RS's in a 2.6L would have to be the worst low mount setup out there. They are terrible on a (my) 2.8. Sure you might make a nice big fat number starting with a 4 but you are going to be belted by a well balanced car with little baby -7's or -9's.

On the pommie forum they seem to love the '2.8 + RS' setup. It is not the setup to have. On a dirty thirty they are not bad... But they are not great either. Once again te next size down in turbo size would make for a much quicker car. Yes you might loose a bee's dick in top end (20 HP) but the midrange will more than make up for it.

It's up to you but area under the curve wins!

Pretty much spot on, I would not put them on a 2.6 litre, 2.8 or 3.0 is a different story that's probably for another thread though.

Piggaz mate, have your Midori dumps shown up yet ?

What's the goss ?

Pretty much spot on, I would not put them on a 2.6 litre, 2.8 or 3.0 is a different story that's probably for another thread though.

Piggaz mate, have your Midori dumps shown up yet ?

What's the goss ?

Dumps are here, 5's are in their boxes in my room. Just waiting on my Nismo cooler to turn up. Also should have the crank timing trigger (will explain later) to stop this timing floating around issue!

Anyway, back on topic. Get a cat that is 4 inch in and out with the biggest body you can find!

This thread delivers, full race balance style.

As someone who's had RS's on an 87mm 3L they STILL sucked compared to 5's.

They weren't as bad on a 3L as everyone makes out they were but it's not even fair once the 5's are fitted to the same engine.

The graph for this will look like a cliff, nothing nothing nothing nothing then a sharp rise on the right hand side.

It will be great if you can always keep the rpm up, but for example if you're in 3rd at say 60kmh and go full throttle it's going to be painfully slow to get any meaningful power out of it and if it's a street car you may think that's super quick but relatively speaking compared to others it will get left for dead.

Good luck with it however it ends up

might be interesting to see what .48 housings would do to -10's

Wont fix it properly but might be a band aid for some

Assuming you mean rear... That'll just make them even more surge prone pushing more air around earlier >_<

Its like people that put a .63 rear on a 700hp GT35 - madmans business.

If you pulling the turbos off to swap housings, you might as well just put on better turbos overall.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • ok so if i wanted to go 18's i would go for 8's  in front 30+ or 32+ off set at front and the back 9 would be ok? what offset should i aim for.. then can i do some  hunting for wheel rim choices..    If i get this - will this fit all around: Size: 18 x 8.5 +37 - n what tyres size tyre should i get for front n back?  
    • Absolute f*cking nightmare. I had to take breaks constantly, and I was always pissed off when I got home. The line split in Italy on day 2 (we drove from the Netherlands), lol. Driving any narrow European town was... well, sh*t.   Appreciate it man. Here, I'll just drop a favourite from the load I took on Saturday.   I'll update here when things happen with the car, the thing is, with stock power and almost everything chassis-wise taken care of, there really are no problems. 268,000kms now and counting.  
    • Ah! I actually managed to snag a lightly used set.... that aren't so suitable for me right now. They don't work on a GTT without some cutting or creative heat moulding. I thought about reselling them myself cause I didn't want to murder them, but it looks like I'm probably going to attempt to murder them/melt them because I may as well. @GTSBoy @PranK can somebody close this thread?
    • Hey mate,  I have a set, one is slightly damaged but wont be noticable once installed.  Shoot me a message if your still after them 
    • I couldn't wait But, the black constant tension hose clamps were too thick and there wasn't enough clearance at the T/B and I couldn't get it to seat properly, so I had use a silver one there I also added some 3" silicone over the alloy bit that goes through to hole on the radiator support as it looked like it was sitting on the edge of the hole in the radiator support, I never noticed a rattle or anything, but there was a witness mark It is basicly done, and I can live with the silver hose clamp at the T/B, I will get a black clamp for the head vent though where it is attached to the bulkhead fitting  It never stops...LOL, only issue now with the shock tower brace is it slightly touches the under bonnet liner now, if I leave it it will either wear some paint off the brace where it touches, or damage the liner, so I removed the liner to see what I have to work with, with the liner removed I have about 20mm of clearance, but sadly the middle part of the underside of the bonnet is only dusted with paint and looks crap, so I cannot have that, but.... as I have a roll of Carbuilders premium under bonnet insulation in the garage laying around that is only 5.5mm thick (we were going to use it on the boys Patrol, but he crashed the front of it a few months and it was written off, hence why he now drives my old Honda Accord Euro), I'll use the OEM liner as a template and get the Carbuilders stuff fitted up to cover that dusted paint up
×
×
  • Create New...