Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So its like this...I have a bunch of bits on my r33gtst. Z32 afm, power fc, datalogit, wideband stuff, 900cc injectors, big ass frontmount, hd clutch, beasty fuel pump, stock turbo at 14 psi. So the next bit for power is the turbo eh?! Anyway later this year I'm getting a tough rb25/30 built (forged rods and pistons and bunch of other crap). I'm looking at getting a gt3582r for the new motor and the question is this (drumroll) Should I wait till the rb30 arrives or should I get the gt3582r setup now?? Reason I ask is I really want more power now without being scared of the stocker shitting itself but I can wait if I have to. I dont want to buy a smaller turbo that suits the 25 when I'll just have to buy another one for the 30 in less than 12 months. Any ideas appreciated.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/367867-need-advice/
Share on other sites

I would wait

but you can still do it...just depends on whether you want to pay for tuning twice, 2 dump pipes (RB30 one needs to be longer) etc

GT35 wont be the most responsive thing on a stock 25 but plenty of peoole still use them.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/367867-need-advice/#findComment-5867374
Share on other sites

Cool sounds good. Yep I'm tuning with the missus in the passenger seat keeping an eye on things while I drive and give her directions regarding the tune. The dump doesn't matter cos a mate at work will do it for a few the sphincter of the universes on the weekend. I was pretty much going to do it but just needed a couple more opinions for the affirmative.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/367867-need-advice/#findComment-5867419
Share on other sites

Haha :) We are pretty safe on all fronts really. She only does changes to the tune that I tell her to do so that's all good there. Also she doesn't like driving the skyline much. Its not comfortable enough for her. And I cant get her to floor it, not that I really blame her.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/367867-need-advice/#findComment-5867578
Share on other sites

:woot: I would but she ain't that silly. I constantly teach her about cars even when she's not listening and she is quite aware of what the gt35r will do. She was scared to drive a pulsar et turbo I used to have with a t25g on it. Plus she has a hyundai accent. Needless to say it is slow as shit. Anyway gotta head, work early and all that bizzo. Cheers for the ears and chat. :D
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/367867-need-advice/#findComment-5867616
Share on other sites

Cool sounds good. Yep I'm tuning with the missus in the passenger seat keeping an eye on things while I drive and give her directions regarding the tune. The dump doesn't matter cos a mate at work will do it for a few the sphincter of the universes on the weekend. I was pretty much going to do it but just needed a couple more opinions for the affirmative.

your mate has an odd payment plan lol

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/367867-need-advice/#findComment-5867678
Share on other sites

I tried that whole thing already with the missus driving but it didnt work....couldnt get her to hold it steady in one cell for shit!

Anyway slap the 35R on there and done with it.....I'm guessing it will be a 0.82 turbine which will be a little laggy, but should be lots of fun after 4500ish

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/367867-need-advice/#findComment-5867706
Share on other sites

way i see it you have 2 choices

HEADS... bolt it on now and have fun blowing up the rb25 ,it would give you some practice on setting it all up so most mistakes will be made now, then when you go to change engine you will have a few tricks up your sleeve already..also gives you a chance to get used to the power gradually instead of a heap all at once..

Besides the 25 might last quite a while and you wont need to put the 30 in just yet..

Or

TAILS.... keep the stock 25 and all its bits.. If you want to sell it down the track u could chuck the original engine back in .. And sell the 30 seperate or if you kill the 30 you have a spare engine u can chuck back in..

now flip a coin :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/367867-need-advice/#findComment-5867718
Share on other sites

good luck telling your missus how to tune while you are driving.

You simply cannot tune without being absolutely focussed on the map. You can't do that because you are driving. So how are you gonig to be able to tell her what to change?

Umm.. This is an accident waiting to happen.

My suggestion - If you know how to tune, get someone that can drive to drive.

If you don't know how to tune and think its just a simple thing like taking a piss - Then I can only wish you luck.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/367867-need-advice/#findComment-5867811
Share on other sites

i've done it heaps of times, aslong as your not tryna make huge changes while your driving its fine. just use the logs after the drive to make adjustments. best thing to teach the mrs is to let you know is theres anything out of the ordinary (too lean, knock etc).

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/367867-need-advice/#findComment-5867937
Share on other sites

For starters I've tuned 600 hp na 5L engines with motec and autronic. Example of the missus and me tuning; I say watch the knock and tell me when it starts to go up. She says ok. I floor it and when and if it starts to go over about 20 she says so and I back off and see what rpm it was and adjust timing by 1 or 2 degrees. If there is no knock then 1 degree gets added to the whole line. FYI My missus is a qualified teacher and is smarter than 94% of people out there according to her uni results. I reckon I'm doing pretty good for tuning :thumbsup: . I'll make a quick clip this afternoon and post it on youtube and link it here so doubters can see. and post a pic of the max knock and afr lol. No luck here, only years of XP :rofl:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/367867-need-advice/#findComment-5867944
Share on other sites

Dyno time would be alright. A dyno is a lot safer for tuning, ya can only legally floor it in second before the speed limit. Here is a quick run I did before the wideband and datalogit. I cant get a new one to upload for some reason. Its about 14 psi dropping to 12ish. The shift light is set to 6500 rpm. When I checked the afrs from the tune in the video it was real low, about 9.8 to 10 ish. It's leaner now and going a lot better but bear in mind its a stock turbo so it is what it is. Oh I forgot to mention in the opening post that the exhaust is done too. I'll try get a new vid uploaded soon.

http://www.youtube.c...h?v=zvhEyMZNIs8

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/367867-need-advice/#findComment-5869353
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My dream is also to have a proper hoist, but I don't think it will ever happen. My quickjack is probably as close as I'll ever get, it really is very good though. 
    • Yeah we keep on in the dailies, it is pretty poor how many animals get hit and the driver leaves without checking....have saved a couple of little ones over the years. Bit of a gruesome job though, pouches generally need to be cut open because they are so tight and often the joey doesn't realise mum is gone so they are still locked onto the teat. I checked the modules in front of the DS wheel where an oil cooler should go.... There is the radar unit - that can go for race use) One of the 2 HX water pumps, the silver cylinder. That needs to be kept but might be able to be relocated But the bad news, the big computer mounted vertically in front of the wheel (blocking any potential air exit) is the electric steering computer. That is required until/unless i do a hydraulic steering conversion, and in CAD based modern car design it is not like I can just pop a big unit like that somewhere else (plus the loom would be too short anywhere else too). So, the passenger side is OK to clear out (just use a smaller washer reservoir, potentially elsewhere), but the DS no beuno
    • Well, all the best with the new camry It was interesting to hear about the UK process, it is generally a lot more streamlined here with a shipping agent looking after all the import side (noting the exact final price can still be a surprise.....) and I've used a few different brokers on the japan (or US) side, and never had any trouble with any of them....luck of the draw I guess. You mentioned you didn't get the auction sheet (understandable since you bought it from a dealer, not auction), but I always try and get hold of that because they are pretty thorough. I've imported 2x R grade vehicles over the years and both were fine, repairs in Japan are pretty thorough compared to here in Oz.
    • BTW I measured the jack I have, it is 70mm at the saddle but you only have about 700 until it returns to 150mm high at the cylinder so it is good but no magic bullet.
    • My experience with Rising Sun Exports Before agreeing to the sale I tried to do as much research as I could (obviously), his Facebook reviews are 98% and he goes Live at least once or twice a week. I contacted 2 people in the UK who had used him for their imports, both had positive feedback. His explanation and talk through of the import process was thorough, answering any query no matter how stupid it was. It felt as soon as the money was sent, communication dropped off. I asked for shipping updates every 2 weeks or so, not wanting to pester him, he never had any updates. I wasn't informed the car had been dropped off at the port, I only found out by his Facebook story. I asked for the photos taken at the port, knowing he would need some for insurance purposes. I received a few 5 second clips and that's it. When asked again, he said his staff had them. Weeks later I asked again, he tells me he doesn't have any, but does have 50 photos from the original advert. I never received them. I eventually got the documents sent via WhatsApp after I mentioned the port was requesting them. I purchased a CarVX report, to find out the vehicle is a Grade R with recorded accident damage, first recorded in 2017 when it was first auctioned. He never told me the grade, then again I didn't ask. His response was "Grade R means nothing, it wasn't chassis damage". Still, I would have liked to have been informed about it. Jon prides himself on being open and honest when it comes to inspecting cars, it's his main job doing so at the auctions for customers. When the vehicle arrived in the UK I noticed a few little cosmetic issues. It's a 21 year old car so it wasn't going to be mint condition. The side skirts are cracked on each corner and the sealant is failing. The front grill on the bonnet/hood isn't secured very well, mounting studs are missing. Both minor things, but again, it would have been nice to be told. During a Facebook Live walk around video of the vehicle, he mentioned it has a front Whiteline anti roll bar/sway bar. While on the inspection ramp, I noticed the stock item has been installed. When first questioned, his response was "the ARB? Switched? Since when, it never had them". Since sending video and photo evidence I've not received a response. I'm probably being over critical of the overall condition of an old car, but all I wanted was honesty (which he claims to have). I'm aware I wasn't his only customer, he's busy doing XYZ but other reviews praise him for great communication with regular updates and photos, I felt I didn't receive the same treatment. 
×
×
  • Create New...