Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 91
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I cannot give specifics, yet a friend with an R34 GTR seemed to get very mediocre results from them.. As do the evo community.

Personally I would stick to the known road with this car, RB26 has been done to death.

bought them off an american site paid 2950 included post full kit....\

um i also just bought and getting fitted

700 cc sard injectors

tomei full pump

apexi djetro ecu getting rid of air sensors coz there on there way out just a cheaper solution...

hks cam gears

tomei pon cams type B

full custom 3.5 inch exhaust

tomei bellbouth dumps

nismo fuel reg

standard internals

fair standard upgrades needed for the turbos recommended by tomei on their site...

theres a standard r34 gtr in japan with standard internals just these basic upgrades that are needed pushing 500hp with these turbos

bought them off an american site paid 2950 included post full kit....\

um i also just bought and getting fitted

700 cc sard injectors

tomei full pump

apexi djetro ecu getting rid of air sensors coz there on there way out just a cheaper solution...

hks cam gears

tomei pon cams type B

full custom 3.5 inch exhaust

tomei bellbouth dumps

nismo fuel reg

standard internals

fair standard upgrades needed for the turbos recommended by tomei on their site...

theres a standard r34 gtr in japan with standard internals just these basic upgrades that are needed pushing 500hp with these turbos

did u have to pay any import taxes/ duty? what was the site?

I'm planning on using this kit along with vipec engine managment , 700cc sard injectors, tomei steel head gasket & walbro 255 fuesl pump!

between 400-500 awhp would be nice, not too fussed with numbers, as long as it will run a mid 12 on street tyres & i'll be happy!!!

U got ur turbos yet? mine are in the post somewhere between here & there lol

Edited by tufftruckin

should do that easily. a stock GTR with just exhaust, boost and a tune (250kw) will run low 12s on stock turbos. stagea is a bit heavier but with aftermarket turbos it should be more like low 12s or 11s.

id have to agree with GTScotT, i remember one gtr with twin tomei turbos and it looked horribly laggy (5.5k) for the 350kw or so it made!! they were done to death on evos and know all evo owners shy away from them, one sr i saw with tomei arms had a similarly laggy poor result. id stick with the tried and tested garretts imo

should have gone hks for that money

what makes hks any better?

no one on here soo far has actually seen this particular kit in action,

maybe tomei's figured out their previous kit wasn't soo flash, so they went on to developed this improved model!

will soon find out if I bought a dud once they are all fitted and tuned!

between 400-500 awhp would be nice, not too fussed with numbers, as long as it will run a mid 12 on street tyres & i'll be happy!!!

U got ur turbos yet? mine are in the post somewhere between here & there lol

yeah i got them being fitted now just waiting on my nismo twin plate they should make 500awhp on 1.3bar thats what it listed on a japanese gtr with the m7655 fitted

id have to agree with GTScotT, i remember one gtr with twin tomei turbos and it looked horribly laggy (5.5k) for the 350kw or so it made!! they were done to death on evos and know all evo owners shy away from them, one sr i saw with tomei arms had a similarly laggy poor result. id stick with the tried and tested garretts imo

tomei just revised their range these turbos came out march this year meant to be on boost buy 4- 4500 rpm so with some good cams and cam gears and a good tune hopefully see good results will soon see next week..

never know if you dont give it a go i guess

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah well per the video it took 15s for the stock unit to start up....even if I give it a few seconds discount for starting that is at least 12 sec before you get a reverse camera if you are trying to leave a park.  The android unit is way faster, but 2016 for the stock unit is a long time ago in consumer electronics
    • Yea that’s why I said ima test them with multimeter and see the reads.
    • Only at idle. Isn’t a problem when rev it seems.
    • @Haggerty This seems silly to ask, but are you confident in your ability to tune the Haltech?  
    • Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
×
×
  • Create New...