Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 91
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I cannot give specifics, yet a friend with an R34 GTR seemed to get very mediocre results from them.. As do the evo community.

Personally I would stick to the known road with this car, RB26 has been done to death.

bought them off an american site paid 2950 included post full kit....\

um i also just bought and getting fitted

700 cc sard injectors

tomei full pump

apexi djetro ecu getting rid of air sensors coz there on there way out just a cheaper solution...

hks cam gears

tomei pon cams type B

full custom 3.5 inch exhaust

tomei bellbouth dumps

nismo fuel reg

standard internals

fair standard upgrades needed for the turbos recommended by tomei on their site...

theres a standard r34 gtr in japan with standard internals just these basic upgrades that are needed pushing 500hp with these turbos

bought them off an american site paid 2950 included post full kit....\

um i also just bought and getting fitted

700 cc sard injectors

tomei full pump

apexi djetro ecu getting rid of air sensors coz there on there way out just a cheaper solution...

hks cam gears

tomei pon cams type B

full custom 3.5 inch exhaust

tomei bellbouth dumps

nismo fuel reg

standard internals

fair standard upgrades needed for the turbos recommended by tomei on their site...

theres a standard r34 gtr in japan with standard internals just these basic upgrades that are needed pushing 500hp with these turbos

did u have to pay any import taxes/ duty? what was the site?

I'm planning on using this kit along with vipec engine managment , 700cc sard injectors, tomei steel head gasket & walbro 255 fuesl pump!

between 400-500 awhp would be nice, not too fussed with numbers, as long as it will run a mid 12 on street tyres & i'll be happy!!!

U got ur turbos yet? mine are in the post somewhere between here & there lol

Edited by tufftruckin

should do that easily. a stock GTR with just exhaust, boost and a tune (250kw) will run low 12s on stock turbos. stagea is a bit heavier but with aftermarket turbos it should be more like low 12s or 11s.

id have to agree with GTScotT, i remember one gtr with twin tomei turbos and it looked horribly laggy (5.5k) for the 350kw or so it made!! they were done to death on evos and know all evo owners shy away from them, one sr i saw with tomei arms had a similarly laggy poor result. id stick with the tried and tested garretts imo

should have gone hks for that money

what makes hks any better?

no one on here soo far has actually seen this particular kit in action,

maybe tomei's figured out their previous kit wasn't soo flash, so they went on to developed this improved model!

will soon find out if I bought a dud once they are all fitted and tuned!

between 400-500 awhp would be nice, not too fussed with numbers, as long as it will run a mid 12 on street tyres & i'll be happy!!!

U got ur turbos yet? mine are in the post somewhere between here & there lol

yeah i got them being fitted now just waiting on my nismo twin plate they should make 500awhp on 1.3bar thats what it listed on a japanese gtr with the m7655 fitted

id have to agree with GTScotT, i remember one gtr with twin tomei turbos and it looked horribly laggy (5.5k) for the 350kw or so it made!! they were done to death on evos and know all evo owners shy away from them, one sr i saw with tomei arms had a similarly laggy poor result. id stick with the tried and tested garretts imo

tomei just revised their range these turbos came out march this year meant to be on boost buy 4- 4500 rpm so with some good cams and cam gears and a good tune hopefully see good results will soon see next week..

never know if you dont give it a go i guess

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...