Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys, my partner just bought an R32 GTST, its boosting to 13-14psi with a standard actuator and im not sure what's causing it. Mods to follow;

Aftermarket side mount intercooler,

Turbo back exhaust,

HKS ignition,

Bosch 044 fuel pump with surge tank in boot,

and a few other little things not really enhancing performance.

any ideas would be apprieciated.

thanks

Jamie Curran

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/369149-what-would-cause-more-boost/
Share on other sites

@Silvia GTR

Nah mate standard actuator, no boost T and no ebc in cabin that i cant see

@Simon-S14

Ok sweet, i didnt realise leaks could cause more boost.

@ant97GTR

once again, didnt realise a vacuum leak could cause more boost, thought it would cause a loss of boost.

Edited by jamie curran

A leak in the cooler pipes will cause a loss of boost.

A leak in the vacuum hose going to the actuator will cause an increase in boost because the pressure is bleeding off before it gets to the actuator, thus requiring even more pressure before the leak to move the actuator.

@KiwiRS4Ti have no idea..... he is a metal fabricator, i think he just got the pump because he made the surge tank himself and wanted to use it. (good quality too)

also it may still have big injectors, i havent checked

Edited by jamie curran

I would check the hose between the hot pipe & the actuator. Those factory rubber hoses may have cracked as their old, allowing boost to leak causing the boost to "spike". Other than that, there could be a possibility there's an aftermarket actuator, or the rod has been altered.

hey guys, bit of an update.

i checked all the hoses with soapy water and found a few leaks around the oem bov from where i had it off and on the blitz bov which i soon fixed, only to find that now it just hit max boost faster and sticks flat on 14psi till around 6k revs and starts to deteriorate.

also i had a chat to clint from pro-stroke and he said the spring in the actuator could be cut/different pound rating? is this something that is generally done guys? or possibly the rod or aftermarket actuator as jognnilicte said and i just dont know the difference lol

some pics, someone tell me gently if ive totally screwed something up haha

Thanks to Simon-S14 for this mad blocker idea.

img0666dy.jpg

img0668wo.jpg

White King lid for the plumb blanking plug :P

img0672u.jpg

NEW BOV!!!! laugh.gif .............well old... but new...

img0669w.jpg

Edited by jamie curran

ok guys, just went to my local workshop, @johnnilicte, you were right, the actuator rod has been altered. thanks for the help guys, im thinking of making a build thread on the car too.

cheers

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • our good friends at nismo make a diff for it, I have one (and a spare housing to put the centre in) on the way. https://www.nismo.co.jp/products/web_catalogue/lsd/mechanical_lsd_v37.html AMS also make a helical one, but I prefer mechanical for track use in 2wd (I do run a quaife in the front, but not rear of the R32)
    • What are we supposed to be seeing in the photo of the steering angle sensor? The outer housing doesn't turn, right? All the action is on the inside. The real test here is whether or not your car has had the steering put back together by a butcher. When the steering is centred (and we're not caring about the wheel too much here, we're talking about the front wheels, parallel, facing front) then you should have an absolutely even number of turns from centre to left lock and centre to right lock. If there is any difference at all then perhaps the thing has been put back together wrongly, either the steering wheel put on one spline (or more!) off, and the alignment bodged to straighteb the wheel, or the opposite where something silly was done underneath and the wheel put back on crooked to compensate. Nut there isn't actually much evidence that you have such a problem anyway. It is something you can easily measure and test for to find out though. My money is still on the HICAS CU not driving the PS solenoid with the proper PWM signal required to lighten the load at lower speed. If it were me, I would be putting either a multimeter or oscilloscope onto the solenoid terminals and taking it for a drive, looking for the voltage to change. The PWM signal is 0v, 12V, 0V, 12v with ...obviously...modulated pulse width. You should see that as an average voltage somewhere between 0V and 12V, and it should vary with speed. An handheld oscilloscope would be the better tool for this, because they are definitely good enough but there's no telling if any cheap shit multimeter that people have lying around are good enough. You can also directly interfere with the solenoid. If you wire up a little voltage divider with variable resistor on it, and hook the PS solenoid direct to 12V through that, you can manually adjust the voltage to the solenoid and you should be able to make it go ligheter and heavier. If you cannot, then the problem is either the solenoid itself dead, or your description of the steering being "tight" (which I have just been assuming you mean "heavy") could be that you have a mechanical problem in the steering and there is heaps of resistance to movement.
    • Little update  I have shimmed the solenoid on the rack today following Keep it Reets video on YouTube. However my steering is still tight. I have this showing on Nisscan, my steering angle sensor was the closest to 0 degrees (I could get it to 0 degrees by small little tweaks, but the angle was way off centre? I can't figure this out for the life of me. I get no faults through Nisscan. 
    • The BES920 is like the Toyota Camrys of coffee machines. E61 group head is cool, however the time requirements for home use makes it less desirable. The Toyota Camry coffee machine runs twin boilers and also PID temp control, some say it produces coffees as good as an E61 group head machine.
    • And yes with a full tank it will hit limiter free revving or driving 6B6CDF6E-4094-426D-A9CB-6C553475FE36.mp4
×
×
  • Create New...