Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i'm in SA and if i could find a 20 for 500 bucks i'll take 6 the cheapest i've ever seen is 1100 and it didn't include turbo or the intake manifold and a few other bits

ive picked up a few 20's, the last one was complete with manifolds for $100.

edit/ im in SA also

Edited by Bl4cK32
  • Replies 209
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I get what Team USA is saying about head work, I think what is being lost in translation between convicts and pilgrims is that R31_Nismoid is sayign dont do things to mess with velocity, ie big porting or the inlet and outlet, etc etc. You are right in saying that anything you can do to lessen the resistance of air without dropping velocity is going to be a good thing. Match porting etc etc.

But the key is not just flow, flow is great, more the better, but its the velocity that gives you good culinder filling and torque/response which in a turbo car works well. Get the turbo on speed and the engien delivering torque and then jsut squeeze as much as you can in there with psi!

Ye that is what I'm saying mr Bris :)

since you guys talked me out of forging, i'm wondering bout stroking cause i have mate that's got a 25 crank and rods i can use this should stroke it to 2150cc with 20 pistons shouldn't it?? but correct me if i'm wrong cause i'm only going off what people have said and what i've looked up so not completely sure if i heard or read right but doesn't the stock pistons come up 0.4mm past the block and with 25 crank and rods it will push it to 1.4mm past but if i put a tomei or acl 1.4mm metal gasket won't this give me the right clearance with roughly same compression just with bigger cc's??

has anyone done this? is it pretty straight forward easy drop in kind of deal? do i need to modify anything? only spitballing

yeah well i was gonna pull the head off to replace the rings so i was gonna put a metal gasket on anyway so the only thing i was gonna change was put 25 crank and rods while it's apart putting all the new bearings and seals cause there available so i'm not set on wasting my money it's not gonna cost me anymore than if i wasn't...i was just wondering on how easy it is and if i need to modify anything to fit the crank and rods in

From what I have research just the rb25 crank, rods, and stock sized rb20 pistons will only net you a 2050cc engine. You have to use over sized pistons to really up the ccs. Remember the rb25 stroke is only 2mm longer then the rb20, just adding 2mm will not get you much. If your going to do it, you should just go all out and do the rb24. I have to say though, if I was in a place that had rb25 for what rb20s cost here I would have a rb25 in mine........ Good luck.

  • 2 weeks later...

yeah just for the two bobs worth no machining required for 25 crank and rods only for the 26 crank and rods...and just side point one guy is running RB24 in s15 and is making 340rwkw at 16 pound apparently it's suppose to have a crap load more torque than the RB25 don't know the details of what he's running but supposedly it's not to laggy but people who have been in it have just said it's a freak motor that just runs really well

I can't see any reason why this would be true, the stroke is still shorter surely?

i thought the rb24 has a longer stroke than 25 from what i've found and talking to people only going by what i've been told and searched so not sure how true it is may have read wrong...people just say it's a freak motor and it seems that most people say it's got more torque so who knows??? would love to take ride in one

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So, version 4 intake is on its way I was looking at these a while ago but at around $200 or more it was a little pricey for something that might not work, but, I had it in my watch list, but, I got a message saying it was on special, and I had a code thingie to use, it eventually came in at $120 delivered, so BAM, BUY NOW.....LOL I'll need to have a look when it arrives but I feel it will "look" better than what I currently have, as it comes with a PCV fitting, so I will be able to get rid of the alloy pipe that goes to the throttle body with the PCV fitting  Well, that's what the voices in my head are telling me  Oh, and this happened today Yeap, it was a Trojan, and it was cheap, so I headed back to the hardware store and actually spent a little bit more on a heavy duty,  one that was actually recommended by a plumber mate, a Cyclone one with a fibreglass handle that is actually rated for clay The broken shovel will eventually be "modified" into a short handle shovel
    • When you pulled it off, there is no signs of blown head gasket? Is it possible you have some other issues going on? Possible cracked blocked? Or do you think it's straight up lifting the head? Did you check what the head was torqued to before pulling it down (To see if possibly they're stretching, or starting to break threads out etc)?
    • Seems like a decent result for a modded JZX110. They are bulky in comparison to the 100 and 90 models (which I'd prefer myself) but they are getting very few and far between here in JP these days. Thanks for the detailed review and the import process into the UK. I also have a car which I'm hoping to export from Japan at some stage so it's good to know if someone from the UK was interested in it. By the way the corrosion underneath is par for the course for cars which were located in/near the mountains or along the Japan sea coastline. They get huge amounts of snow every winter and the sodium chloride is used on the roads. Many cars have some kind of rubber like treatment underneath but they tend to limit it to the wheel arches underbody and fuel tank. Suspension arms and sub-frames will have similar corrosion to your JZX110 which is a common sight. See it all the time and car dealers here generally don't even mention it unless asked.
    • If the sound goes away when you clutch in, the 1.5/2 way diffs are just shit, and you are a normal person. The diff is likely "fine" but driving at anything under 30kmh is a violent horrible experience. It would be exaggerated with solid diff bushings and subframe bushings if you have those.
×
×
  • Create New...