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So yeah, R33 with RB25DET. Standard fare of broken exhaust manifold studs- 2 of them, 1st n last ones, pretty generic :closedeyes:

The thing is i dont have any problems with the seal of the manifold. Though Im about to put another turbo on (HKS 2535) and wondering if this is a job that should be done prior to installing the turbo, or is it something that is likely not to really give me any trouble?. Obviously it would be a bitch of a thing to install the turbo n then have to pull it all off again to do studs cos i got a manifold leak....

Honestly im busy enough at so that rules out doing it myself (ill be doing the turbo install n thats my time budget blown). N its a pretty riduclous cost to have a mechanic do it- n i then might as well get him to do the turbo install at the same time = much more money again.

thoughts n experience people??

cheers

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ok cheers for that people. Will definately do it then...

just to confirm based on my recent research- RB25DET studs arent too bad to get out yeah? basically you can get the manifold off and counter lock 2 nuts on the end of the broken stud and extract that way?. Or weld a nut on the end to grab onto?

Its just that i went to a mechanic about this a while back (non import mechanic) n he was saying it is highly possible that it might require the stud being drilled out and a thread rebored into the block. Which as you can imagine = $$$$$$$$$$$$$

any indication of whether this ever ends up being the scenario?

5 of mine broke in trying to get them out..you can drill them out ,in fact you probably have to, but the thread shouldnt need to rebored unless its drilled by a butcher

If you soak the thread in wd40 overnight a couple times, it should loosen up enough to lock 2 nuts on and wind it out. Remember the head is alloy so it shouldn't weld itself in like with cast iron or whatevs.

Certainly preferable than attempting easy-outs etc.

After that, give the new studs a wipe of anti-seize compound.

If you soak the thread in wd40 overnight a couple times, it should loosen up enough to lock 2 nuts on and wind it out. Remember the head is alloy so it shouldn't weld itself in like with cast iron or whatevs.

Certainly preferable than attempting easy-outs etc.

After that, give the new studs a wipe of anti-seize compound.

I dont think it has anything to do with the nuts welding themselves into the head. As the manifold gets hot because of its long design it twists, this puts excess stress on the studs and they must either fracture or just get weak in the middle causing them to snap when you try to remove them..I doubt wd40 can solve this problem but you can try..

lets not forget you studs are now 15+ yrs old, time, heat and load would most likely be the cause, i had a couple of broken and when i pulled the manifold off broke a couple more, all up had 5 broken, none needed to be drilled and helicoiled, replaced all of them so i should not have to worry about them for the next 15 yrs :)

definately do it this time, there must be a knack to it the thread doctor had mine out in about 20 mins, try to find someone in perth who is mobile or if need be take the head to someone.

workshops can make money on getting him to do it. Make money doing what they do whilst car sits there gettin fixed by thread doctor.

Thread doctor charges $130

Workshop charges customer $150

I have just picked up my manifold studs, washers & Nuts today

Had 5 snappped, got 4 out, one to go, being a real C***. Just drilled and Easy out.

Edited by bluey33

yyup.. i knw the feeling.. im a mechanic and i have the tools, skills and ability to do the thread removal but i would much rather pay a thread guy to do it while i get on with something else.. they do this shit for a living and it takes them next to no time where as i would waste an hour or three doing all of them if they are snapped below the head surface,

  • 2 weeks later...

not sure if this info is too late for you, but seeing as you are in perth, you could give this guy a try.

his prices are quite competitive, and has a good reputation on another perth import forum, AL.

Galvsport - Mechanical maintinence and upgrades

0402648544

Josh.

I do these myself by:

1) Removing the manifold and other obstructions in the engine bay

2) Use a center punch to carefully mark the center of the stud with a hammer

3) Use a small drill with a 1/8" or so titanim bit and CAREFULLY, SLOWLY and STEADILY drill completely through(about 3/8" distance) the center of the stud. Make sure bit is aligned and is center. AVOID breaking bit and its ok if the hole is slightly off.

4) Use a slightly larger diameter bit and drill about half way or more(same rule as above)

5) Carefully use the largest diameter stud remover that will hold(one like drillbit that locks by turning anti clockwise)with hand turn. Stud should turn out.

6) Cleanup and replace. Old non-broken studs can be replaced also using two nuts to lock and turn out.

Hope it helps..

lol I am surprised that people even ask these questions.

If a wheel stud breaks, do you just change the rim and leave it till later?

no but id say a really high proportion of skylines get around with a couple of broken manifold studs with no problems at all. hence the question whether i can just continue with this status quo.

I dont think many skylines, or cars, get around with a broken wheel stud. anybody could realise that this is likely to fail due to the obvious forces put on it and that when failure occurs its going to be ugly. Both conditions that arent present in the head stud issue.

Interesting analogy though.....:glare:

Edited by jjman

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