M35 Stagea Advice

[Commsman]

I agree. I love the black leather & electric seats, but the switch gears digs into my thigh a bit on longer trips.

There is a Nissan service bulletin that covers a (potential) fix for this - I posted them on m35.info forum - but I've still not bothered to try it.

[jasevr4]

I don't mind a tightly fitted seat at all, I'm not very big person and have been craving my Recaros from my Evo in every car that I've driven since.

Edited July 3, 2011 by jasevr4

[blade511]

Bit of an old thread, but does anyone still do the English conversion for the stereo ? Have just imported an 04 ARX, replaced the suspension with mca x-r's and bushes are up next before it goes for a blue slip.. But the stereo is the next priority after that.. I'm in Sydney if that is relevant.

Many thanks in advance

Ps has anyone been able to get the maps working for Australia ? Not overly important, but curious all the same

[joshm35]

No no maps

[YangLIU]

some people would like to change factory navi screen to pocket

[West]

Whats the part # for the pocket? Might do it to my future stag one day.

[joshm35]

Why not go the whole hog like i did and do it properly

[Dunc]

I've never seen that second pocket! Mine has a weird Panasonic DVD drive in there for the GPS system.. that'll get ripped out eventually

[joshm35]

I've never seen that second pocket! Mine has a weird Panasonic DVD drive in there for the GPS system.. that'll get ripped out eventually

I got it from yahoo auctions in Japan. Yours may have had the screen from factory as mine had the dvd rom in that area.

[BoostdR]

Problems

 

Turbo Failure:

If the oil lines get blocked, yes your turbo will fail. Clean or replace your lines and your good to go. Drilling your banjo's to 3mm will just cause excessive flow  and encourage oil to leak out the turbine oil ring causing smoke.

The main failure is the ceramic turbine breaking off the turbine shaft. Oil flow is not related to this. The cause is directly related to turbine speed. If you want the OEM turbo charger to last, don't put a dump pipe or exhaust on it, Don't increase boost otherwise it will fail eventually.

 

Rear Shocks:

Upper Mounts will rip out of the car when performance shocks are installed or even with OEM. The top hats rust out due to the stupid design

 

Rust:

They like to rust in the lower kick panel, window frames, gearbox mount point.

 

Air Flow Meters:

The OEM Airflow meters blow continuously. Best by a AFM off ScottyM35 as these are the only ones Ive seen last.. better than getting stuck..buy one straight up

 

Interior:

The interior is just ugly, it squeaks and creaks  

 

Engine:

The engine is capable of serious power and great response. Be warned the head studs are cheese and will leak/lift with almost any detonation. The OEM injectors run out of flow easily so be wary of an M35 Series 1 with an exhaust but no other supporting fueling mods, it will most likely already have a broken piston. Every M35 series one I have compression tested have had at least one piston broken(greater than 10% compression variance). Rocker cover Gaskets go hard and leak. Electronic throttle isn't the most reliable. The coil packs don't like Adelaide 48 degree heat.  

 

Transmission:

This will start slipping on mid throttle changes on the OEM setup when boost is increased and destroy itself. Can only be patched with a shift kit

 

Brakes:

The brakes are hugely undersized and will wrap and crack with any spirited driving.

 

Electric Windows:

The drivers window motor will eventually strip the inner cog. OEM window motors are expensive.

 

Rear Sub Frame:

They can crack at the top of the inverted U. You can't tow

 

Electrical:

The Battery Control Modules are almost all been water damaged at some stage due to blocked drain holes. The rams in the front seats are prone to setting off intermittent Air bag faults. Centre pop up screen is useless, even when converted to English   

 

Stereo:

The original Bose system sounds good, changing it requires a bandwidth adaptor(PAC-OEM2). People charge insane amounts for a Double din fascia.

 

 

Summary:

Buy the series 2, 2wd version with the 3.5ltr if you don't plan on modding the series 1 turbo. If you are looking at going down the turbo path, don't modify it unless you are (a) very patient and capable of your own work or (b) are willing to spend big money with a workshop who actually knows these cars. Buy the car will all the options that you want already...ie AXIS, leather, sunroofs, radar cruise etc. Don't by a turbo version without completing a compression test.

 

 

Matt

 

Edited July 3, 2016 by BoostdR

[West]

8 hours ago, BoostdR said:

Problems

 

Turbo Failure:

If the oil lines get blocked, yes your turbo will fail. Clean or replace your lines and your good to go. Drilling your banjo's to 3mm will just cause excessive flow  and encourage oil to leak out the turbine oil ring causing smoke.

The main failure is the ceramic turbine breaking off the turbine shaft. Oil flow is not related to this. The cause is directly related to turbine speed. If you want the OEM turbo charger to last, don't put a dump pipe or exhaust on it, Don't increase boost otherwise it will fail eventually.

 

Rear Shocks:

Upper Mounts will rip out of the car when performance shocks are installed or even with OEM. The top hats rust out due to the stupid design

 

Rust:

They like to rust in the lower kick panel, window frames, gearbox mount point.

 

Air Flow Meters:

The OEM Airflow meters blow continuously. Best by a AFM off ScottyM35 as these are the only ones Ive seen last.. better than getting stuck..buy one straight up

 

Interior:

The interior is just ugly, it squeaks and creaks  

 

Engine:

The engine is capable of serious power and great response. Be warned the head studs are cheese and will leak/lift with almost any detonation. The OEM injectors run out of flow easily so be wary of an M35 Series 1 with an exhaust but no other supporting fueling mods, it will most likely already have a broken piston. Every M35 series one I have compression tested have had at least one piston broken(greater than 10% compression variance). Rocker cover Gaskets go hard and leak. Electronic throttle isn't the most reliable. The coil packs don't like Adelaide 48 degree heat.  

 

Transmission:

This will start slipping on mid throttle changes on the OEM setup when boost is increased and destroy itself. Can only be patched with a shift kit

 

Brakes:

The brakes are hugely undersized and will wrap and crack with any spirited driving.

 

Electric Windows:

The drivers window motor will eventually strip the inner cog. OEM window motors are expensive.

 

Rear Sub Frame:

They can crack at the top of the inverted U. You can't tow

 

Electrical:

The Battery Control Modules are almost all been water damaged at some stage due to blocked drain holes. The rams in the front seats are prone to setting off intermittent Air bag faults. Centre pop up screen is useless, even when converted to English   

 

Stereo:

The original Bose system sounds good, changing it requires a bandwidth adaptor(PAC-OEM2). People charge insane amounts for a Double din fascia.

 

 

Summary:

Buy the series 2, 2wd version with the 3.5ltr if you don't plan on modding the series 1 turbo. If you are looking at going down the turbo path, don't modify it unless you are (a) very patient and capable of your own work or (b) are willing to spend big money with a workshop who actually knows these cars. Buy the car will all the options that you want already...ie AXIS, leather, sunroofs, radar cruise etc. Don't by a turbo version without completing a compression test.

 

 

Matt

 

Reading you post Matt and i don't want a stagea anymore :).

[admS15]

Buy one. Leave it stock, happy days.

[Daleo]

In other news;

No other car ever built in the history of motoring has ever had any kind of reliability issue.

So probably just go & buy one of those.

Maybe a Jeep; they seem quite good.

[blade511]

Stock is fine, especially for what I have found so far in these cars... Compared to an "Aussie" made equivalent it's a stark difference in what is considered stock.. And largely where it's tempting to have fun and go all out, I am personally trying to keep it "stock"....

Where OEM parts are available, I would largely go for them, but at the same time, if it's cheaper to put something potentially better on, I know what I would rather do...

[iamhe77]

On 7/4/2016 at 10:32 AM, West said:

Reading you post Matt and i don't want a stagea anymore :).

So get a PM35.

No turbo to worry about

Different AFM (seems much more reliable)

Nicer interior

Common engine

Updated transmission

 

Really, the only downside to the 3.5L is that there is no turbo.

[joshm35]

So get a PM35.

No turbo to worry about

Different AFM (seems much more reliable)

Nicer interior

Common engine

Updated transmission

 

Really, the only downside to the 3.5L is that there is no turbo.

Some people. .....

[iamhe77]

Some people that have owned and modified both models you mean?