Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

It makes me crazy /laugh when I read the first comment on this thread! So many tyre places and so called alignment guys are full of crap. Tyre guys give uneducated opinions based on NOTHING. just personal opinion. The front and rear are FULLY ADJUSTABLE so you can set them up perfectly for "australian"roads.

I have an educated opinion at least (15 years as tech engineer for Bridgestone and an engineering qualification) and we know our cars. Firstly if you can find the specs, use them. SOme vehcicles are a little different due to design (eg 350Z need more toe in because they have toe out issue under braking) or F/R balance - some FWD run more rear neg camber to give rear bite... but as a general rule: Set them up to suit your dirving needs and roads. eg i drive flat freeway but still want a bit of neg camber for cornering - so half to 1 degree of neg camber, put a bit of toe in for movement of bushes, under braking and wear (1mm measured on the right tyre /wheel diameter).

Re tyre pressures, if you are running 45 series or lower put 40 psi because they are easily damaged if they get a little underinflated. esp if they are subject to excessive camber. the lower the aspect ratio - the more pressure for safety (up to 45). I run 38 in my 50 series, I would not go under 34.

Re tyre wear, how long is a bit of string? depends on alignment and driving. I will get at least 45000 out of mine because I do a lot of freeway. You get what you pay for with tyres. Nankangs and wanlis etc just dont have the balance of grip and wear and are really bad at recovery (slalom). I remember testing wanlis on a reps HSV. I nearly lost the rear end by the 3rd cone and had to abort at 70km/h whereas Bridgestones did 80km/h and just kept going where I pointed them - no snap oversteer no wash - just grip.

But if you like power oversteer coming on easily, and dont mind fighting for your life dodging a kangaroo or animal when the tyre wont recover, go for the wanlis!

This is one of the most educated things ive heard on the topic.

Just as a side note, if your going to get a wheel alignment and the aligner mentions "road camber" just walk away. As somebody thats worked on building roads of all types for years, i can categorically say that all road cambers are different. thats before you consider things like bumpsteer, potholes or other road damage. Setting up every car that comes into your shop to automatically pull right isnt just irresponsible, its down right dangerous!! Every car must be individually aligned to suit the customers needs. If they are unwilling to setup the car the way you request, go elsewhere.

  • 4 years later...

Sorry to dredge this thread up but I'll be taking my M35 to get aligned once I've fitted the Nismo S-tune kit I just bought.

Looking at the alignment specs that people have mentioned the M35 should have 1mm of toe in front and rear? Is that correct?

Every other car I've had recently the toe needed to be 0 front and rear and I've always been told toe in is the worst cause of premature tyre wear. Just want to make sure - if that's what it should be for some handling reason then I'll go with that but otherwise tempted to get it lined up straight like my scooby was.

On 20/11/2016 at 3:08 AM, gazman2 said:

Guess what I'm asking is DO I want neutral toe though? Just wondered if anyone knew why specs I've seen seem to recommend toe in front and rear. Has anyone tried something different?

I've been running zero toe on the rear for quite some time now; no issues . 

 

Front ; I'd suspect you will want an amount of toe in, cars can get a bit "wandery" with zero in the front . 

Thanks Dale! Think I know what you mean about wandery - my accord was annoyingly wandery on the motorway and that was zero toe all round. Really impressed with the M35 handling and stability so far and just don't want to mess it up.

The more toe you have the more stable the car will be, ie less tramlining and the steering wheel will return to straight strongly. The less toe the more willing the car will be to change direction, so its a trade off. Since my Stag is the daily it has toe, but the GTR is zero.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi GTSBoy, Excuse my ignorance but what does a "Bad" Knee point mean ? 
    • HFM BM57 has a "bad" knee point, IIRC. It's not the same thing as the later R chassis MC.
    • The ATTESSA is functionally identical to R34; there were a bunch of JDM models that continued ATTESSA including Fuga/Q70, Skyline/Q50, Cima etc as an option. All with Auto only and I think mostly for snow regions. AFAIK there were no AWD VR30DDTT sold in Australia - it is on my to do list to check regs for racing a LHD car in Targa/ATR/AASA/CAMS events because if I can get the auto to work it would be interesting to run a 4wd car The Ecuteck TCM tuning is the same model as their ECU tuning, they already have it for R35 and Dose's favourite, BMW. You buy "points" to allow your computer to be tuned, buy either a bluetooth (phone app) or bluetooth+USB+Key (phone and PC) dongle, and pay for a tune that will be locked to your tuner ( ). You can also access the tuning software yourself but 1. it is mega expensive and 2. these computers have a billion parameters that intersect, so how could you ever spend enough time on it to get a decent result.
    • Or, is it a case of what it is like owning an R series Skyline? NFI what the previous owner has done or fiddled with... Ha ha ha After reading through this thread, I went on a bit of a research about the Q50/Q60. Now I'm quite intrigued by them! Is the AWD in them more like a WRX where it's always AWD, or is it more like the ATTESSA in the GTRs? By the sound of this TCU tuning, this sounds like a case of someone has made some real software for it, and you just need the right piece of hardware, and then you license that specific vehicle/TCU. Or is this a case of the software will be really expensive so only a few tuners have it, and you still have to pay a license per vehicle?
    • By popular demand.. it was a coil. Got my hands on 1 new OEM coil, replaced with the one that made the less noise difference when I unplugged it while the car was running and started the car up. No stutter and the engine light was gone. I guess I’ll buy the other 5 they have lol
×
×
  • Create New...