Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Although I know the answer more or less, I had a quick look on the site and couldn't find what I was looking for so the query goes thus... Can ya/Who has open/ed your/their stock wastegate actuator, shim/swap the spring and make it work. Cos I'm going to no matter what (almost) anyone says, I'll post results on Saturday afternoon. Ooorah for the forward slash :worship:

Edit: I should have called it wastegate acutator modification....oh well :whistling:

Edited by Room42
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/369564-wastegate-modification/
Share on other sites

I have modded quite a few to hold higher boost, I added a spring to the side to allow easy adjustment/spring replacement. No need to cut the actuator up imo but the M35 design lends itself well to this mod.

post-63525-0-92417300-1309434025_thumb.jpg

^^^^ :blink:

Does this thing actually work? How much boost can this hold? I've seen turbos sent in with those setup and I swapped them all with high pressure actautors.

ofcorse it works... its adding preload to the gate via the use of a spring.

its crude... but it works

ok. any way, to OP yes we can build you actuators with 2x springs that holds around 18psi depending on the housing, intake and exhaust setup. Or modify your turbine housing to hold what ever boost you want it to hold.

^^^^ :blink:

Does this thing actually work? How much boost can this hold? I've seen turbos sent in with those setup and I swapped them all with high pressure actautors.

Mine held 17psi, nice and flat. Boost level depends on the size of the puck obviously so the external spring makes changes very easy to fine tune the peak.

Crude? I think its a better option than cutting the sealed actuator open as you introduce the chance of leaking which would raise boost. If the spring fails the boost returns to stock levels.

If anyone tries this, make sure the spring pulls straight into the actuator or it will put sideways load on the shaft affecting its operation. And make sure you get a tune afterward obviously.

Well that all seems good then. I reckon I'll try the outside spring idea first and see how that goes. I bought a Profec A a little while back but it was a bit rooted so the guy refunded me. The button on the front wouldn't pop back in and sometimes it held boost and sometimes it didn't. I might just get a decent boost controller shortly depending on how the actuator modification goes. Thanks for the comments and the pic guys :thanks:

Well it was a busy day so all I did was get a spring and put it on a heatshield bolt hole to the wastegate arm. With no boost control its at 8 psi. Thats a whopping 2 psi above stock. Needless to say I wound the bleed valve out a bit to make it more fun. On that subject my bleed valve has started sucking in air a few weeks ago. I'm sure it wasn't before, must be stuffed aye? I've got it t'd into the carbon canister. Any other suggestions/ideas?

By shortening the adjuster you are limiting travel, possibly causing the flap not to open enough and causing boost to spike. It doesn't add that much spring pressure either. There should be around 3mm of preload usually.

Well I cut the spring I had in half and chucked it back on. The car was on 14 psi before and it went up to 18 psi. I adjusted the bleed valve and got it back down to 14 psi again. As to be expected the turbo spools up quicker which is nice for response. I'll chuck the other half on today and see if I can get it to hold 14 psi without the bleed valve. I think it was holding about 9 or 10 psi last time with no bleed valve.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That looks good, but I think you're going to need much beefier side skirts now.
    • They are daft and there's a reason it never caught on. Steering feel? We don't need no stinking steering feel!
    • I gotta pull you up on this. It's driving me crazy. A shutter is something that closes, like over a window or in a cmera. The word you want is shudder. That LSD is clearly f**ked. Take it to a diff shop and get it disassembled and examined by an expert. YOu might have plates welded together or something equally crazy.
    • Define "starting to fail". Wy not just rebuild them?
    • Check the Nistune doco. There are a few assumptions being made here that might not be valid. I will list the things that occur to me: Base map. Base map for what? Base map for Z32? Then the cranking pulse width is probably wrong for an RB25. The extra 500cc of capacity might well be enough to prevent it from catching. Base map for RB25? I don't think you can load one of those into a Z32. You have to just make the settings correct for an RB25 in the Z32 base map. That is either K or the TIM to get the pulsewidth right. Loom. You bought a loom for an RB. And you plugged it into a Z32 ECU. Did you make sure that any iwre differences were swapped. From memory, there's at least a couple. And as per the others, I would suggest making sure that the fuel pressure is correct while cranking and that the injectors are actually flowing as expected. They really must come out and go on the bench, unless you do find that you have messed up as per above points. I would also suggest watching in Nistune to make sure that everything is reading correctly. That the correct binary flags are raised at the right time (like the crank signal), that there's no stupid values in K or TIM. That you have not got mismatched firmware for the ECU and/or a wrong image loaded.
×
×
  • Create New...