Questions On M35

[bigkevracer]

350-400kms on 3/4 of a tank isn't that bad. 3/4 of a tank is ~60L, that's 15-17L/100Km, which is what I get when I behave

I can get mine down to 12-14L/100 on a trip, but general city/highway average is 15-17L/100.

[scotty nm35]

I only got 120ks from the last fill, you're doing pretty well IMO.

[Dunc]

350-400kms on 3/4 of a tank isn't that bad. 3/4 of a tank is ~60L, that's 15-17L/100Km, which is what I get when I behave

That neglects to take into account that when your guage hits the lower line it isnt empty

But yeah, if the CEL is on - and you've read the codes off and it says O2 sensor.. a) check its plugged in, b) replace it

[iamhe77]

I only got 120ks from the last fill, you're doing pretty well IMO.

lol... drive to Dyno > Dyno runs > Drive home = 120kms

Not really everyday driving bud

[iamhe77]

350-400kms on 3/4 of a tank isn't that bad. 3/4 of a tank is ~60L, that's 15-17L/100Km, which is what I get when I behave

I can get mine down to 12-14L/100 on a trip, but general city/highway average is 15-17L/100.

Not accurate there Ryan.

Set your trip when you fill up, then next fill take note of how many litres the tank takes to fill.

kms travelled / litres to fill = km per L

Then divide 100 by that figure to work out your L/100kms usage

EDIT - yes, I know...

Edited July 6, 2011 by iamhe77

[bigkevracer]

That's what I usually do Cam, although lately I've been lazy and just gone off the Xanavi. I was ballparking off Syd's figures.

[Sydsyd]

alright, got myself a set of BC racing type BR coilovers...gonna do installation myself with a help from a mate this weekend (if i get lucky when no one calls from work)...i can work out how to take off the fronts, but how to take off the rears? i mean how to access to the top part of the rear suspension which is covered by the interior...

tried searching on SAU for any DIY on this, couldn't find any (maybe i didn't search hard enough?)...any links or pics would be a great help...thanks guys!

[Daleo]

alright, got myself a set of BC racing type BR coilovers...gonna do installation myself with a help from a mate this weekend (if i get lucky when no one calls from work)...i can work out how to take off the fronts, but how to take off the rears? i mean how to access to the top part of the rear suspension which is covered by the interior...

tried searching on SAU for any DIY on this, couldn't find any (maybe i didn't search hard enough?)...any links or pics would be a great help...thanks guys!

Easy!

Remove wheel, follow shock to mounting point on chassis rail, undo 2x M10 bolts (13mm hex, I think). Easy!

Unless the design of the BC top rear shock mount has changed; you will ned to re-use the pressed steel OEM top mount (The cup shaped bit that bolts to the chassis). The BC rubber bushes and crush tube fit perfectly into the OEM mount, so WD40 the shock thread, and remove the M12 nut (17mm socket) you might need to lightly clamp the shock in a vice to stop it turning.

Only takes a couple of minutes each to change, and you're on your way. I recommend running the shock at it's shortest extension rather than OEM length. Wind it all the way into the bottom clevis until it binds, then a full turn out If you lock it up with the bottom clevis bottomed out, over time it may lock in the thread and be impossible to disassemble later on. Lock the tapered collar and you're good. Also the bottom clevis is slightly too wide IMO, I used a 1.5mm thick M12 (or 1/2") washer to take up the gap as the clevis will have to crush miles too far otherwise. You could easily machine some small spacers if you have access to a lathe, but washers worked fine.

To remove the STD rear spring it is easier to undo the inner mount for the lower arm (one with the spring seat) and lower the whole arm supported with a jack. Mark the eccentric bolt on the lower arm before removal. You'll be aligning once you're done; but at least you're no worse off. The STD spring is very long and you won't be able to swing the arm far enough down to remove the spring from the seat.

If you like; I can PM you some base height measurements and some pics of my ride height as a starting point for adjustment. I'm at work at the moment, but I'll do it tomorrow morning.

Edited July 7, 2011 by Daleo

[Sydsyd]

thanks for that dale, really appreciate it...

gonna jack up the car on the weekend to have a look what's below...fingers crossed it's not raining in melbourne on saturday, can't work in a garage with 2 bloody wagons and lots of stuff around lol

[Daleo]

No worries Syd, the fronts are a piece of cake, 10 mins a side; TOPS. The back end is where the time is.

[impul535w]

Easy!

Remove wheel, follow shock to mounting point on chassis rail, undo 2x M10 bolts (13mm hex, I think). Easy!

Unless the design of the BC top rear shock mount has changed; you will ned to re-use the pressed steel OEM top mount (The cup shaped bit that bolts to the chassis). The BC rubber bushes and crush tube fit perfectly into the OEM mount, so WD40 the shock thread, and remove the M12 nut (17mm socket) you might need to lightly clamp the shock in a vice to stop it turning.

Only takes a couple of minutes each to change, and you're on your way. I recommend running the shock at it's shortest extension rather than OEM length. Wind it all the way into the bottom clevis until it binds, then a full turn out If you lock it up with the bottom clevis bottomed out, over time it may lock in the thread and be impossible to disassemble later on. Lock the tapered collar and you're good. Also the bottom clevis is slightly too wide IMO, I used a 1.5mm thick M12 (or 1/2") washer to take up the gap as the clevis will have to crush miles too far otherwise. You could easily machine some small spacers if you have access to a lathe, but washers worked fine.

To remove the STD rear spring it is easier to undo the inner mount for the lower arm (one with the spring seat) and lower the whole arm supported with a jack. Mark the eccentric bolt on the lower arm before removal. You'll be aligning once you're done; but at least you're no worse off. The STD spring is very long and you won't be able to swing the arm far enough down to remove the spring from the seat.

If you like; I can PM you some base height measurements and some pics of my ride height as a starting point for adjustment. I'm at work at the moment, but I'll do it tomorrow morning.

+1 please

[Daleo]

+1 please

Ok, later today.

[impul535w]

Ok, later today.

[Sydsyd]

hey guys,

i need help as i'm still clueless on what's going on...

the car has ECL on a few weeks ago, checked the codes manually, came as 1111, 1110 and 1135...i checked against the list of ECU error codes, nothing of that kind, searched online and came up as ECL code for Navara which points into the intake side (all 3 of them)...i asked the workshop that i normally go to and when they checked out the code using OBD scanner, same codes came out and i was told that the O2 sensor is busted...

now i just got the O2 sensor replaced yesterday and today the codes came up again, same ones as above...

anyone has an idea on what i need to look at? need help asap as i'm scared of driving with ECL on all times...

[bigkevracer]

i'm scared of driving with ECL on all times...

Depends what the issue is... Aaron drives around like that 24/7!

[Jetwreck]

111 = Intake air temp circuit range/performance problem - Try cleaning the AFM

110 = IAT Circuit Malfunction - Lost on this.....maybe a bad air filter

135 = O2 Sensor heater circuit malfunction - Try unplugging this......see if there is any difference on how the car runs

Other than that without seeing the car i cannot help you.

[Sydsyd]

hey guys,

noob question, how to take the gear handle apart? cos i've been driving manual so can't really figure out how to take auto gear handle...need to replace the light for passenger seat heater switch...

[Daleo]

hey guys,

noob question, how to take the gear handle apart? cos i've been driving manual so can't really figure out how to take auto gear handle...need to replace the light for passenger seat heater switch...

Push down the silver ring around the bottom of the knob with a flat blade screwdriver; flick out the spring clip around the bottom of the knob, lift off.

[prince_skyline]

hey guys,

noob question, how to take the gear handle apart? cos i've been driving manual so can't really figure out how to take auto gear handle...need to replace the light for passenger seat heater switch...

This is for the whole dash assembley for a G35 Infiniti (V35 Skyline) but the first few steps shows you how with diagrams.

http://documents.victorytechnologies.com//documents/product/9438.pdf

or this one:

http://www.sound-repair.com/index.php/infiniti-g35-03-05-stereo-removal-instructions/

Edited July 26, 2011 by prince_skyline

[Sydsyd]

anyone with M35 has bought any reinforcement braces (not sway bars)? if yes, do they actually improve handling or at the least work as it's supposed to?

something like this: http://www.oxmotorsports.co.jp/7.html?

damn expensive