Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey just bought a hks turbo timer for my car but i am a little confused on how to wire it because i have extra/different colour wires to what the site says

wires from the timers module are- black - earth

grey - ????

green - ????

blue - ?????

orange- ????

Photoon2011-06-30at20272.jpg

can some one tell me which wires to splice each colour too.

thankyou

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/369571-wiring-turbo-timer/
Share on other sites

Ok it looks a little different so this could be wrong but give it a try

Blue=Acc

Grey=Handbreak

Green=Ignition 1

Yellow/orange=Ignition 2

Black=Ground

just make sure u check with a multimetre

ps. I take no responsibility :P

why do you need a turbo timer?

they are illegal and pointless... not to mention they make your car easier to steal.

how would it make your car easier to steal? If your alarm supports a turbo timer, as soon as any door is opened the immobilser will kick it and kill a combination of fuel/ecu/power/ignition/cas.

My 32 came with a HKS turbo timer which I quickly removed.

The easiest for you is to buy the HKS patch harness, NT-1.

It has the plug for the timer and the male/female plugs to join to the standard Nissan plug under the steering column.

Guess that's why people suggest it's easier to steal, but you'd still have to overcome the immob. items.

ok thanks guys for the input i think i will still wire it in cos im gonna be bored this weekeend, im also gonna re-wire my rwd/awd fuse switch...

the thing only cost me 30 bucks so meh.

hey simon i read your build thread last night. impressive ride, and drift shots. sick man. i can get hold of a neo motor and box for my gts-4 but not sure if i want to put anymore money into this car cos i think i want something thats %100 rwd.

I have an oldschool HKS timer myself (but I have a patch harness as I don't want to hack apart my stock wiring). I can confirm the grey wire goes to the handbrake.

R32 turbos are oldschool journal bearing, a turbo timer is a good idea

R32 turbos are oldschool journal bearing, a turbo timer is a good idea

If you don't hit boost the last kilometer home then that will be more effective than letting the thing idle for 1 minute... in most cases the engine is only gonna get hotter sitting there at idle.

ok so i found the proper instructions online

red - 12v constant

green - 12v ignition

blue - 12v acc

grey - handbrake

brown - rpm signal

black - earth

from the timer to the control i got thin - red

blue

black

brown

grey

white???

from the control module to the 3 pin plug i got thick - blue

green

orange

grey

black

hate wiring... spanners any day over a solder iron and test light!

  1. Should I run a Turbo Timer?
    A turbo timer enables the engine to run at idle for a specified time after the ignition has been turned off. The purpose is to allow the turbo to cool down thus avoiding "coking" ("coking" is burned oil that deposits on surfaces and can lead to blocked passages).
    The need for a turbo timer depends on how hard the turbo and engine is used. Running at full speed and full load then immediately shutting down (heat soak) can be extremely hard on a turbo. Water-cooling of the turbocharger's center housing has essentially eliminated the need for turbo timers or extended idling periods.
    top.gif

  2. Do I really need the cool down procedure on my turbo?
    The need for a cool down procedure depends on how hard the turbo and engine is used, and whether or not the turbo is water-cooled. All Garrett turbochargers must pass a heat soak test and the introduction of water-cooling has virtually eliminated the need for a cool down procedure.

From Garrett site.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The average previous owner for these cars were basically S-chassis owners in the US. Teenagers or teenager-adjacent. I often tell people that neglect is easier to fix than something that was actively "repaired" by previous owners.
    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
×
×
  • Create New...