Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all,

Well after my old workplace going into liquidation and should be getting paid out sometime soon (hopefully soon - not Christmas as I have been predicting to my old workmates), I'm finally going to spend some cash I get and finally get all the pieces to upgrade my car.

What I have already installed

Blitz SBC -ID III Spec R Boost Controller

Just Jap Return Flow Intercooler

GReddy Turbo Timer

Autogauge gauges (Volts, Boost, Oil Temp)

3 inch Turbo back exhaust system

The Shopping List

HKS 2535 Turbo (Already purchased) - been sitting in the shed for a while

ISC N1 coilovers (set at either 8kg front 6kg rear or 7kg front 5kg rear)

Adjustable Whiteline swaybars front and rear

Deatschwerks 600cc Fuel Injectors

Z32 AFM + Wiring adaptor

Yellow Jackets Coil Packs

Deatschwerks DW301 Fuel Pump and Nissan Mounting Kit

Deatschwerks Fuel Pump Hardwire Kit

Defi Advance CR Gauge Set (Boost, Oil Temp, Water Temp) & Control Unit (the Autogauges are becoming very inaccuate - given they are cheap)

Stagea Shift Kit (does anyone know who I'm Melbourne does this and how much does it cost and how many stages do they go up to)

Nistune ECU & Tune

What should I install first given that this is my daily drive and I'll still be using the car (mainly just to and from the tram stop near my place) up until installation of the Nistune and getting it Tuned. I'm looking to hit 240-250awkw with setup...Do you guys think that is achieveable with this setup??

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/370349-next-set-of-upgrades/
Share on other sites

considering u have the turbo already i'd upgrade the fuel injecters, AFM, coil packs, fuel pump and ecu all at the time time so u only have to tune it once!!!

and then i'd be doing the shift kit.......... after that do all the other stuff: guages, coilovers and swaybar.

but thats just me........ seems logical tho.

Lots of go-go, not much stop-stop. Id look at some brake upgrades :thumbsup:

That's that only thing that is bugging me....I don't know what I should do...my car is almost due for new set of pad and rotors. Given how much of a pain it is to get pads and rotors (especially rotors) for S2's

I'm either going to do this

Stick with the same S2 Brake package but get Dixcel SD (slotted) rotors front and rear with some good pads

OR

Upgrade to either R33 or R34 pads and rotors - which one of these would be better for my car?? Guessing that R33 or R34 rotors and pads are available locally makes it a better option

Edited by BigDirtyJase

That's that only thing that is bugging me....I don't know what I should do...my car is almost due for new set of pad and rotors. Given how much of a pain it is to get pads and rotors (especially rotors) for S2's

I'm either going to do this

Stick with the same S2 Brake package but get Dixcel SD (slotted) rotors front and rear with some good pads

OR

Upgrade to either R33 or R34 pads and rotors - which one of these would be better for my car?? Guessing that R33 or R34 rotors and pads are available locally makes it a better option

i put bc coilovers in one month ago and love them car handles great i have got r34 gtt brakes ready to go on strait bolt up

Good pads and good fluid will = almost identical stopping to any brake upgrade. Repeated stops heavy stops will benefit from a brake upgrade.

My two cents is to install all your gear, turbo, nistune etc. Drive and enjoy.

When/if the rotors need attention then machine them if they have enough meat, replace the pads (if needed) to something that is consistent with the cars use and replace the fluid if it is buggered.

I recently replaced the front and rears calipers and rotors for R34 GT-t + DBA4000 (they are not quite direct fit) and the initial impression is that braking feels pretty similar barring getting rid of the slight pulsing from the warped/glazed front rotors.

You need the nistune for the Z32 afm and the injectors so you can do all the rest in any order although probably best to do the turbo last as you will have to keep the boost down till you do the ecu.

GTT brakes are an easy upgrade but replacing all your fluid with Motul RBF600 and getting a decent set of pads will go a long way to improving your brakes..

QFM HPX, available through GSL Rallysport, a SAU sponsor, are the ones I found most recommended on here, so I have a set sitting here to go in, just waiting till I get discs to do it all though. I'm still trying to work out what discs though :wacko:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
    • Actually, I'd say all three are the automatic option. Just the different trim levels. The manual would be RSFS, no? 
×
×
  • Create New...