Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

I have searched a few times under a few different variations of heading and found nothing. All i need to do is remove my afm plug from the factory wiring and replace it with a newer better one. I was expecting the grey plasic plug to be half moulded and clipped together but it's a solid piece with a yellow insert. Am I right in assuming this Yellow insert is the key and if I remove that then the wiring will be able to come out freely? How do u do it without breaking it? The newer plug is second hand with a bit of wiring hanging out but would rather replace the lot rather than cut wires and solder then tape up.

Thanks in advance

Liam

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/371345-changing-the-afm-plug-over/
Share on other sites

A pic might help, there are lots of different plugs around.

Usually you squeeze the two sides in and it should pop out, the yellow part is the inner part of the plug, it also has an outside grey part over it.

When i got mine it was twisted together and then taped up!!!

Hi guys,

I have searched a few times under a few different variations of heading and found nothing. All i need to do is remove my afm plug from the factory wiring and replace it with a newer better one. I was expecting the grey plasic plug to be half moulded and clipped together but it's a solid piece with a yellow insert. Am I right in assuming this Yellow insert is the key and if I remove that then the wiring will be able to come out freely? How do u do it without breaking it? The newer plug is second hand with a bit of wiring hanging out but would rather replace the lot rather than cut wires and solder then tape up.

Thanks in advance

Liam

You are going to have to make the electrical joins at some point; while it's possible to disassemble the plug and

connect the pins to the wires, you will probably get a better result from doing what you prefer not to

(i.e. join where the breaks are with solder and heatshrink).

Cheers,

SW

Geeze its not rocket science.....

Those plugs can easily be disassembeled , you just need a few precision srew drivers to get in there.....bear in mind however some of them can be very brittle and dont matter what you do, it will break, so you better hope your replacement is in good nick.

Yes the yellow piece is what locks everything in place ,remove that first....

Experiment on the one you have to replace

The whole reason I am asking was because I have never done it or even attempted it before and I don't want to break them. Precision screw drivers? Is the yellow piece clipped in? Screwed in? Just sitting there? Again just how does the yellow piece come out? Thanks for the info but I'm none the wiser as to disassembling it.

Use a flat and pry up in the middle of the front....the whole portion needs to be lifted as you would see three tabs holding the yellow piece from coming out

While you are prying the front get a next small flat and place it in the back of the yellow piece from behind and push it out....try to do it evenly and you will need someone to hold it steady for you

post-42272-0-33459800-1311111007_thumb.jpg

When you get out the yellow piece there are three individual tabs holding each wire terminal in place

Pry these down while holding the wire from behind and pulling it out at the same time .....these need to be moved a good bit for it to come loose.

post-42272-0-41733100-1311111041_thumb.jpg

Waallllaaaaa....

post-42272-0-87563900-1311111670_thumb.jpg

Now reverse the whole process and lets head for the bar

then just fit some new plugs

PC computers usually have good connectors to suit this type of application with locking tabs

check out places like jaycar etc online to find a pair of male/female clips with a locking tab

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yes to both! Yes to standard ECU and tune, but exhaust is aftermarket. Unsure on brand. Actually have it sitting in at my desk haha! I have to set it up on my laptop but this is a great next step, will do. So I generally try to shift before 4.5K RPM most times. I largely don't do a lot of high-rev driving, but I will take it up to red 1-2x a week max, as I know the occasional "Italian tune-up" is good for these cars.  Oh wow, is this way better than what I'm getting. Does this mean there's a good chance I have an issue?   Thanks for all the info so far guys.
    • Old Son, did you re-use the Holden ABS in the new shell or try a different module?
    • Yeah, nah. I had the actuator rod off it today. The arm will not move at all. Neither out, nor in. Yeah, you'd think so, but I've been thinking about that. Even when the actuator rod fell all the way off at the beginning of this saga, it would build more boost and faster in lower gears than it would in higher gears, and you'd think that that was the opposite of what should happen. But I strongly suspect that there is a thing with the gearing getting the revs to rise faster, that there must be some transient effect with the gas flow rate rising quickly, that you don't get with the more steady state case of the higher gears. Keep in mind - the gate is not shut in either of my weirdnesses. So things are not "normal". We normally think about a turbo spooling up (below the wastegate target) with the gate shut. I have all sorts of mental models running now where the gate is a little bit open, and having it stuck open allowing gas out while it should be going through the turbine has all sorts of weird effects (in these mental models). I'm thinking in the higher gears, the ex mani pressure builds to the point where enough gases spill out the wastegate to just prevent the pressure rising much more at all, or just creeping up, all the whole the revs are increasing and getting closer to the point where a gear shift becomes necessary.
    • Is it possibly wastegate actuator itself is sticking, or even the rod to flapper? Otherwise I reckon things are getting a bit rusty/worn   Also odd it won't boost in 3rd to 5th, but will in 1st, I'd expect the other way around with it slightly open as there's more time on your way to redline for it to spin up
    • Does anyone know ow what these two plugs are for and if they should be unplugged? Just put the dash back together and can't remember if these were plugged in before or unplugged! (Blue and white plugs) 🤦🏽‍♂️
×
×
  • Create New...