Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Not very common in Aus but when you read motorsport magazines and they are very common especially in rallying in Europe etc due to being Cosworth/Pi manufactured ECUs

Does anyone know anyone that can tune them in Syd or Melb? The ECU in question is only the introduction unit so not too complicated

Overview

The Pectel T2 ECU benefits from leading edge technology developed in the Pectel high end ECUs. Fault protected drivers are used to control four high-impedance injectors and two ignition channels for fully sequential operation of four cylinder engines to 10,000rpm.

There are six external analogue sensor channels including a standard lambda sensor input; an internal sensor is used for barometric pressure compensation. Three output channels are provided for PWM or switched control of external functions (such as a fuel pump, idle speed control, wastegate control etc.) and a switch input is provided which can be used for a lap beacon etc. The system includes 512kB of battery backed memory for engine data-logging (40 simultaneous channels from a possible 120, with independent user-configurable rates of up to 100Hz). An engine logbook function is also provided, which records maximum and minimum operational parameters from the previous 100 engine runs.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/371399-pectel-ecus/
Share on other sites

should be no stress, speak to meridian. if not anyone should be able to tune it. I looked @ Pectal as a viable import program for a suplier a few years back but they arent very proactive and did nothing with it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/371399-pectel-ecus/#findComment-5924188
Share on other sites

I'll tune it troy with my dividing rod and geiger counter. just buy me 10 pints before we start.

so what's up with the boost control? don't tell me you've gone soft and want to turn it down?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/371399-pectel-ecus/#findComment-5924822
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • (it is a brand new ported mellings pump) I suspect the lack of pressure is due to the leak. It was *not* that low in other logs of oil pressure in the past. It wasn't that hot either, but not far off.
    • Would a Mellings oil pump be a viable option  From my time with a LS, and talking to tuners and LS specialists, the "weak" OEM oil pump is one of the first things they recommend to swap out if I was going to give the engine any high RPM I opted for a Mellings high volume, with the high pressure springs and I never had a issue with it Cost wise they are not expensive in the scheme of things 
    • Just bought a 2002 Stagea 250tRS VR-X Four AERO VQ25DET and spent the last two weekends cleaning and detailing it.. still have to do the wheels and the engine bay but the rest of it came up nice. Imported 2011 to S.A. and I'm the third owner since it was imported. I met the guy who brought it over, he went to Japan and picked out the car, bought it and ordered the wheels. He also gave me a list of stuff he did to the car with receipts. Coil overs (I have the original springs), 3" exhaust from the dump pipe back no cat, Custom dump pipe,(I have the original exhaust), Plenum spacer, 18" custom Work XSA wheels (need restoring, I've made a start..), Shift kit put through the 5 speed tiptronic auto, TV and menus/screens changed to english, Australian DTV tuner installed in rear. I've just had four new discs and new pads as well as all the fluids including the brake fluid replaced. I have all the receipts for the last 15 years and the import papers in a nice folder. Car looks great, goes like hell but fuel economy is not a thing lol.. pics next..
    • I ended up in this rut again lol, and used a shit ton of filler. One thing I can't understand is, even after using a big long block and going in long X pattern strokes, I always end up at bare metal again with no filler, and my repair started at one end of the door and now I've chased my tail to almost the other end of the door. I was thinking of hitting the panel with a hammer where it might be a high spot and making everything low then filling it, I did this on a small section on my other door by mistake and I think I fixed it lol. Is this a bad idea? The other thing is with guidecoat, whether it's the powder or spray, after I sand all the guide coat off, it doesn't reveal anything for me in terms of high spots and low spots and makes it especially hard when it's bare metal (at least in powdered form), am I doing something wrong here, or likely a high spot I keep going over and creating valleys? Lastly, stupid question but, is it possible that after sanding if I only sand over the filler area where I know to be a dent that it's impossible for me to dig into that dent? Unless there are other problems which I missed.  
×
×
  • Create New...