Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I found the attached dyno, it's different boost levels with VTC on or completely off.

VTC is switched at around 4700

I have no dyno with VTC switched on all the time, sorry!

The graphs shows torque only.

post-33912-0-37808500-1332276103_thumb.jpg

Edited by Torques

AFAIK the inlet cam is advanced by around 18 degrees.

This gives the charge more time to fill the cylinder, especially at lower boost this might be helpful.

However this measure also increases valve overlap which leads to charge reversion.

Turbo engines usually have very tame camshafts anything 'wild' or overlap is no good since the back-pressure in the cylinder is reversing through the inlet.

(Of course there are many different turbo engines ...)

I think some people don't understand what VCT is actually doing..

Edited by Torques

AFAIK the inlet cam is advanced by around 18 degrees.

This gives the charge more time to fill the cylinder, especially at lower boost this might be helpful.

However this measure also increases valve overlap which leads to charge reversion.

Turbo engines usually have very tame camshafts anything 'wild' or overlap is no good since the back-pressure in the cylinder is reversing through the inlet.

(Of course there are many different turbo engines ...)

:yes:

But I believe it advances it an even 20deg.

My comment wasn't directed at anyone in particular but more so at the generic comments of "leave it on all the time".

I know when it is enabled at idle in my car the idle is far from smooth but could probably be tuned smooth. If left on in the high rpm range my set of the pants dyno tells me it has lost power.

It also makes a huge difference in the midrange, particularly with a bigger turbo and helping it get on boost (even more particularly because my car is auto with the standard stall speed).

Jez, if you get your setup working with the VCT on all the time below 'X' rpm, will that affect overrun running? i.e. trying to get my head around how the engine will respond on decel with the intake cam advanced 20deg :blink:

I had vct permanently on for a few days while my ecu was being modified ( chipped R32 ecu piggy backed on to my Stagea ecu) . Idle was not so flash and I knew that I was losing a bit of power at the top end (over 5000 roughly) - so its driveable but not recommended .

Yes, the overlap of the camshafts is no good for low rpm / idle.

The exhaust gases revert into the inlet ..

That's why the Z32 ECU only switches to 'on' at

higer rpm > 2000

a minmum speed

car in gear

I had vct permanently on for a few days while my ecu was being modified ( chipped R32 ecu piggy backed on to my Stagea ecu) . Idle was not so flash and I knew that I was losing a bit of power at the top end (over 5000 roughly) - so its driveable but not recommended .

It advances the intake cam, this decreases overlap increasing the intake velocity at low rpm removing reversion but causes a restriction in the top end, surely this would make the idle better not worse, eg it is the opposite of putting a big cam in?

It advances the intake cam, this decreases overlap increasing the intake velocity at low rpm removing reversion but causes a restriction in the top end, surely this would make the idle better not worse, eg it is the opposite of putting a big cam in?

:yes:

Found it.......

post-42272-0-81941700-1332336240_thumb.jpg

Green(tq) / black(hp) = stock ecu 10psi nvcs off (huge dip due to R&R)

Dark blue(tq) / Red(hp) = Tuned ecu 10 psi nvcs on from 1500rpm right up ( notice how it shits itself after 5000rpm)

Orange(tq) / Light Blue(hp) = Tuned ecu 10 psi nvcs off

..so for reference from the graph at 3000rpm it makes about 10hp and 17 ft-lbs more when nvcs is activated

Edited by Don Dada

It advances the intake cam, this decreases overlap increasing the intake velocity at low rpm removing reversion but causes a restriction in the top end, surely this would make the idle better not worse, eg it is the opposite of putting a big cam in?

Overlap = Time Inlet and Exh\aust Valves are open at the same time, so when you open the inlet earlier overlap is increased.

Larger ovelap is in general not helpful to idle.

At low rpm overlap also causes the intake charge to be sucked out of the exhaust due to the relatively long time the exhaust side is open with regards to rpm.

Very nice,

Would you have this a bit larger please (it's stamp size)

Found it.......

Green(tq) / black(hp) = stock ecu 10psi nvcs off (huge dip due to R&R)

Dark blue(tq) / Red(hp) = Tuned ecu 10 psi nvcs on from 1500rpm right up ( notice how it shits itself after 5000rpm)

Orange(tq) / Light Blue(hp) = Tuned ecu 10 psi nvcs off

..so for reference from the graph at 3000rpm it makes about 10hp and 17 ft-lbs more when nvcs is activated

Opens later, not sooner.

Advancing intake cam means it overlaps more, retarding exhaust cam means it overlaps more. Think of advancing as turning clockwise and visualising the cam profiles.

edit:

good explanation here

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-engine-fuel/221200-cam-basics.html

Edited by Rolls

You guys need to re- Read what advancing a cam does

Increasing overlap increases cylinder filling at high rpm

So why would you want that when trying to increase bottom end mid range torque

Advancing the intake cam means that it closes earlier than when set at zero.

Hence decreasing the amount of time both intake and exhaust valves are open I.e overlap

Advancing the exhaust cam increases overlap as does retarding the inlet cam

You guys need to re- Read what advancing a cam does

Increasing overlap increases cylinder filling at high rpm

It isn't that simple, you can change the amount of overlap, but also the where in the filling cycle the overlap occurs.

Advancing the exhaust cam increases overlap as does retarding the inlet cam

it is the opposite to that.

I've always been told different to that....:/

Eg advancing the cam is turning it the same direction as the crank rotation

Eg http://www.compcams.com/technical/FAQ/LSAproperties.asp

In the case uou are describing the 25s VCt must retard the cam as having huge overlap on a small motor is a sure fire way to lose all bottom end grunt

As you say Not that simple but a good rule of thumb

It is very very simple.  Stop thinking about everything else and start fresh.

1) Overlap is the time when the exhaust valve is closing and the inlet valve is opening.  Inlet valve closure has nothing to do with it.  Only opening.

2) Advancing the inlet cam will of course make it open earlier.  This will increase overlap.

VTC is active between 1500-4700 (or thereabouts, depending on what ebgine we're talking about).  Make your own conclusions about whether it is advanced or retarded by the actuator.

Edited by GTSBoy

Zebra, think about the order of the strokes,

Your thinking that the exhaust stroke happens after the intake stroke (which it does, eventually) so if your advance the intake cam timing your moving it away from the exhaust stroke, but the exhaust stroke is immediately before the intake stroke so advancing the intake timing moves it further into the ending exhaust stroke. The intake stroke has compression and power before you get back to exhaust.

Edited by D_Stirls

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...