Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

G'day guys, i've been looking here for a while and finally decided to post a question.

I don't know much myself about these cars but i'm trying to learn, anyway here is my question, i have a M35, when i floor it off the mark or when driving along and put the foot through the firewall the car goes onto limp mode, i then need to turn the car off remove the key start the car up again and continue on my way, i'm putting the car in for a service in the next couple of weeks and would like to be able to tell the mechanic what might need to be replaced to fix this.

Any advice would be appreaciated.

i was trying to wait until the next Vic cruise or even the SAU nationals when i could discuss these cars with others but need to get this resolved ASAP.

Thanks

Chris

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/371717-limp-mode/
Share on other sites

would like to be able to tell the mechanic what might need to be replaced to fix this.

If you need to tell him how to fix it, he isn't the man for the job. Have you worked out the codes yet?

What mods do you have if any?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/371717-limp-mode/#findComment-5926615
Share on other sites

Thanks guys i'll get him to check out the AFM, he was going to put it on the dyno to check what's going on but time didn't prevail.

Iamhe77, from Forest Hill

Have even looked at codes or anything like that, the missues just drives it to and from work and thats about it.

Car is standard as far as i know except for dual DVD players in the headrests (just got the cable to run the DVD's through the front screen yesterday), Brembo brakes, Volk TE73's 245x40x19 tyres, and some sort of body kit on it, leather interior.

(still working out how to reply to multiple messages) :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/371717-limp-mode/#findComment-5926651
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...

OK the problem is the throttle position sensor, now i've just got to source one to test.

Would throttle re-learn procedure fix this? Even though it is used for idle speed, it may well fix it. The guys who have done this when cleaning out their throttle bodies may know...... In any case, it shouldn't take long to do the procedure. Info here: http://www.m35stagea.info/forum/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=206

Cheers, Leon.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/371717-limp-mode/#findComment-6042188
Share on other sites

remember there is a throttle position sensor on the pedal and one on the actual throttle itself - actually i think there are 2 on the throttle.

if its only when you floor it, its possibly the one attached to the pedal

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/371717-limp-mode/#findComment-6042198
Share on other sites

If you want to easily check what Iain suggested, get a multimeter, earth one probe and check the voltages on the wires with the other. The voltage on pins 2 & 5 should be linear all the way to the floor. A sudden change (drop off?) would indicate a faulty potentiometer.

To get access you might need a pin to push thru the wires as the back of the connector is sealed.

post-76144-0-04601500-1317618428_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/371717-limp-mode/#findComment-6042566
Share on other sites

Its probably a dirty carbon track on the pot, there are two carbon tracks inside it. If you can pull it all apart and clean the tracks with contact cleaner it should be fine. Or just replace the throttle pedal sensor.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/371717-limp-mode/#findComment-6042707
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...