Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Sooo, I've done several Group Buys for Sway Bars now, and they've all gone very well, but I haven't really catered for you guys :blush:

Are any of you C34 drivers after Sway Bars or Whiteline alignment parts?

Feel free to post in this thread or send me a PM; I'm happy to help.

Cheers, Dale.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/371762-c34-sway-bars/
Share on other sites

Sooo, I've done several Group Buys for Sway Bars now, and they've all gone very well, but I haven't really catered for you guys :blush:

Are any of you C34 drivers after Sway Bars or Whiteline alignment parts?

Feel free to post in this thread or send me a PM; I'm happy to help.

Cheers, Dale.

The 25G is RWD and has no rear bar. What do you suggest?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/371762-c34-sway-bars/#findComment-5927445
Share on other sites

The 25G is RWD and has no rear bar. What do you suggest?

I'm not really clued up as to the differences in the subframes among the different models, so I'll have to defer to the more experienced guys on that. I'm going to have to pay more attention.:blush:

If we can ascertain what subframe it is; I'm sure we can find a bar to suit.:thumbsup:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/371762-c34-sway-bars/#findComment-5927479
Share on other sites

Sooo, I've done several Group Buys for Sway Bars now, and they've all gone very well, but I haven't really catered for you guys :blush:

Are any of you C34 drivers after Sway Bars or Whiteline alignment parts?

Feel free to post in this thread or send me a PM; I'm happy to help.

Cheers, Dale.

i could be interested pending prices

The 25G is RWD and has no rear bar. What do you suggest?

my mate bought a 33 that was originally a gts (non turbo but converted in japland with turbo everything except rear way bar) all the mounting points were there under the car and on the lower suspension arms so we bolted a whiteline bar in there

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/371762-c34-sway-bars/#findComment-5927773
Share on other sites

Check out the Cusco ones while you're at it - may or may not be more expensive.

Had a quick look at their website - bars are about AU$350 but they don't seem to list Stagea ones so onoly the Sklyline ones known to fit would be of interest. Probably Aussie made ones would be a better bet.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/371762-c34-sway-bars/#findComment-5927932
Share on other sites

Check out the Cusco ones while you're at it - may or may not be more expensive.

Had a quick look at their website - bars are about AU$350 but they don't seem to list Stagea ones so only the Skyline ones known to fit would be of interest. Probably Aussie made ones would be a better bet.

$350? I'll be able to smoke that pricethumbsup.gif Should be around $230-$240ish.

^^ agreed.

can also use R33 GTR swaybar on front

Thanks for the tip; I'll get some prices together.

Cheers, Dale.

Edited by Daleo
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/371762-c34-sway-bars/#findComment-5927992
Share on other sites

Ok, prices;

Front AWD;

BNF27Z; 22mm ADJ AWD RRP; $265 Me; $220

BNF27Z.jpg

Front 2WD ONLY!

BNF24Z; 24mm ADJ 2WD; RRP; $265 Me; $220

BNF24X; 27mm Fixed 2WD; RRP; $265 Me; $220

BNF24Z.jpg

Rear; 2WD & AWD;

BNR11Z; 20mm ADJ; RRP;$299 Me; $240

BNR11XZ; 22mm ADJ; RRP; $299 Me; $240

BNR11XXZ; 24mm ADJ; RRP; $299 Me; $240

BNR11XZ.jpg

Links;

KLC108; Front Heavy Duty Ball Link; RRP; $180 Me; $120

KLC108.jpg

KLC109; Rear Heavy Duty Ball Link; RRP; $180 Me; $120

tn_KLC109.jpg

Let me know what you think.

Cheers, Dale.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/371762-c34-sway-bars/#findComment-5928081
Share on other sites

I'd be keen for front and rear AWD swaybars, anyone got recommendations for which thickness to go for on the rear one?

I would tend toward the 24mm due to the extra weight in the rear (a lot of glass & steel high up in the body) and this will also tend to reduce understeer.

I'm not really familiar with the handling bias of the C34 but I would imagine it is understeer biased.

Feel free to correct me.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/371762-c34-sway-bars/#findComment-5928107
Share on other sites

Good prices!

Sway bars are the best bang for buck investment in handling. Worthwhile for a stock or modified Stagea. Improves cornering no end and there in NO DOWNSIDE - no harsh ride or other problems.

I have the 24mm solid rear which is a big upgrade on the stock but would not suggest a smaller one.

For the front the SK kit had 24mm made to special order but the 22mm should be ok as there is a tendency to understeer.

NB I painted mine black as even though they are an upgrade with no implications for reduced safety (the opposite in fact) they are considered a "modification" that might incur unwanted attention.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/371762-c34-sway-bars/#findComment-5928266
Share on other sites

Good prices!

Sway bars are the best bang for buck investment in handling. Worthwhile for a stock or modified Stagea. Improves cornering no end and there in NO DOWNSIDE - no harsh ride or other problems.

I have the 24mm solid rear which is a big upgrade on the stock but would not suggest a smaller one.

For the front the SK kit had 24mm made to special order but the 22mm should be ok as there is a tendency to understeer.

NB I painted mine black as even though they are an upgrade with no implications for reduced safety (the opposite in fact) they are considered a "modification" that might incur unwanted attention.

Cheers mate; I aim to please!

Best description of the benefit of fitting Sway Bars :thumbsup:

Mine are also powdercoated Black; stealth FTW!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/371762-c34-sway-bars/#findComment-5928452
Share on other sites

Cheers mate; I aim to please!

Best description of the benefit of fitting Sway Bars :thumbsup:

Mine are also powdercoated Black; stealth FTW!

Does powdercoating void warranty? I've been enquiring about powdercoating rims and one dude said that it would compromise its structural integrity..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/371762-c34-sway-bars/#findComment-5928466
Share on other sites

Does powdercoating void warranty? I've been enquiring about powdercoating rims and one dude said that it would compromise its structural integrity..

i'm pretty sure powder coating ovens wouldn't get anywhere near hot enough to affect the heat treatment of the metal used.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/371762-c34-sway-bars/#findComment-5928471
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • (it is a brand new ported mellings pump) I suspect the lack of pressure is due to the leak. It was *not* that low in other logs of oil pressure in the past. It wasn't that hot either, but not far off.
    • Would a Mellings oil pump be a viable option  From my time with a LS, and talking to tuners and LS specialists, the "weak" OEM oil pump is one of the first things they recommend to swap out if I was going to give the engine any high RPM I opted for a Mellings high volume, with the high pressure springs and I never had a issue with it Cost wise they are not expensive in the scheme of things 
    • Just bought a 2002 Stagea 250tRS VR-X Four AERO VQ25DET and spent the last two weekends cleaning and detailing it.. still have to do the wheels and the engine bay but the rest of it came up nice. Imported 2011 to S.A. and I'm the third owner since it was imported. I met the guy who brought it over, he went to Japan and picked out the car, bought it and ordered the wheels. He also gave me a list of stuff he did to the car with receipts. Coil overs (I have the original springs), 3" exhaust from the dump pipe back no cat, Custom dump pipe,(I have the original exhaust), Plenum spacer, 18" custom Work XSA wheels (need restoring, I've made a start..), Shift kit put through the 5 speed tiptronic auto, TV and menus/screens changed to english, Australian DTV tuner installed in rear. I've just had four new discs and new pads as well as all the fluids including the brake fluid replaced. I have all the receipts for the last 15 years and the import papers in a nice folder. Car looks great, goes like hell but fuel economy is not a thing lol.. pics next..
    • I ended up in this rut again lol, and used a shit ton of filler. One thing I can't understand is, even after using a big long block and going in long X pattern strokes, I always end up at bare metal again with no filler, and my repair started at one end of the door and now I've chased my tail to almost the other end of the door. I was thinking of hitting the panel with a hammer where it might be a high spot and making everything low then filling it, I did this on a small section on my other door by mistake and I think I fixed it lol. Is this a bad idea? The other thing is with guidecoat, whether it's the powder or spray, after I sand all the guide coat off, it doesn't reveal anything for me in terms of high spots and low spots and makes it especially hard when it's bare metal (at least in powdered form), am I doing something wrong here, or likely a high spot I keep going over and creating valleys? Lastly, stupid question but, is it possible that after sanding if I only sand over the filler area where I know to be a dent that it's impossible for me to dig into that dent? Unless there are other problems which I missed.  
×
×
  • Create New...