Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just thought I would share my experience with people who probably don't care what happens in my life but I thought it was interesting none the less, a few months ago 4 cars in my complex were broken into a brand new Alfa Romeo, a new Subaru sedan and a Accord none of which has security systems installed but these guys must have been pro's they managed to jimmy the lock for the alfa and accord although they did end up bending part of the frame of the door of the Alfa (unfortunately the owner started his contents insurance from Shannon's the day AFTER the incident (he asked them specifically to start it the day after)) but for some reason they couldn't get into the Subaru so they smashed the window, how they did all this in the silence of the night and no one waking up to hear them is beyond me. They raided for any small things of value (GPS's, Laptops, Phones, Wallets, ipods etc.) and the most ironic thing I found is that my car was the only one with a full fledged alarm system...except...I FORGOT TO ARM IT!! *DOH* domokun.gif... luckily, the reason my car was unlocked was because I went down to get my wallet and forgot to rearm and relock it! This turned out to be one of the best things I could of done, because of that they went through my entire car and didn't take a thing! Leaving my baby unharmed! They left all my expensive Kincrome and other tools in the trunk (guess it wasn't worth it to them) and my very expensive leather jacket!!!....So moral of this story leave your car unlocked pinch.gif.....(the front gate was closed so they couldn't steal it even if they wanted too lol)

Edited by JamesK
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/372136-car-got-broken-into/
Share on other sites

Yeah, similar thing happened to me a few months ago too.

I went out to the car to grab something at like 9pm but forgot to arm it. Then I went back out to the car at 11pm, with papers and stuff everywhere.

They went through my glove box and centre console, ALL they took was my $50 walkie talkie lol.

I had my GPS on the floor and my iPod in my din, but I guess it was too dark and they wouldn't see it? lol

I was lucky though, because if it was someone that knows what they are doing, they coulda taken like 3k worth of stuff lol

I hope to thos whom likte to break in to cars break their spins as they are spinnless anyways.. I'f it was possible to deploy claymores I would lol but it's not legal. :(

Nxt person that breaks into my car god help u

As I'll be installing a camera in my car and turning it on during my napping hours as for some reason they seem to be commiting the crimes. I'f u see a black R33 with Mr Wali and u try break in to it even gods and the seven heavens won't save you .

I'm just sick of getting robbed every freaking time. Btw guys I'm going to be the nxt sau bounty hunter. Get ready for claymores. Whom Eva keeps trying to breaking In go my car. I'm on to them.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Who did you have do the installation? I actually know someone who is VERY familiar with the AVS gear. The main point of contact though would be your installer.   Where are you based in NZ?
    • Look, realistically, those are some fairly chunky connectors and wires so it is a reasonably fair bet that that loom was involved in the redirection of the fuel pump and/or ECU/ignition power for the immobiliser. It's also fair to be that the new immobiliser is essentially the same thing as the old one, and so it probably needs the same stuff done to make it do what it has to do. Given that you are talking about a car that no-one else here is familiar with (I mean your exact car) and an alarm that I've never heard of before and so probably not many others are familiar with, and that some wire monkey has been messing with it out of our sight, it seems reasonable that the wire monkey should be fixing this.
    • Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
×
×
  • Create New...