Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all, Ive got a 32gtst with a standard rb20 in it, and what i thought was the standard box, but have been told this is not an RB20 box.

Just trying to work out what it is, and if it's ok to continue using it in my car/or what I should sell it as.

Notice the gearbox is mounted using only 2 holes, and also the shifter sits slightly forward:

Any help would be great,

Cheers - Sam

post-77777-0-05935100-1311749191_thumb.jpg

post-77777-0-02527500-1311749225_thumb.jpg

post-77777-0-11798200-1311749256_thumb.jpg

post-77777-0-57702800-1311749268_thumb.jpg

Edited by Sammy B
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/372236-can-someone-identify-this-gearbox/
Share on other sites

That looks like a CA/SR box, is the yoke sticking out, at the rear of the box? that crossmember is bolted in backwards aswell by the looks of it

CA/SR has the starter motor bolts facing the other way and no the crossmember is around the right way. The high side is the exhaust/passenger side

That gearstick position is what happens when you put RB20 manual into RB20 auto body. The holes are in different locations. Not a problem, except it causes the rubber boot to push the gear stick backwards a little when in odd numbered gears.

My 32 was auto before its conversion and i don't have this problem

Have you had your vehichle fasted? You can see if it came from factory with an auto.

No, I have not had it fasted. That may help work out if it was perviously auto, but I still have no solid idea what that gearbox is from. Also if it is a ca/sr box is there any reason why I shouldnt continue using it?

Any thing i should check/pictures i could take to help determine what it is?

Well, so was mine, and I do (although it's not a problem). Must be different by year or something.

could be a r31/vl gearbox . as for the hole position , i vaguely remember a friend of a friend of a friend of a mate telling me that they spaced the front crossmember/engine mount points (or something like that) slightly different in the auto (something about the bellhousing on the auto bla bla) .

Disclaimer: don't take this information as gospel , i didn't personally discover this nor have any intrest at the time of what the guy was talking about so information is fairly sketchy

could be a r31/vl gearbox . as for the hole position , i vaguely remember a friend of a friend of a friend of a mate telling me that they spaced the front crossmember/engine mount points (or something like that) slightly different in the auto (something about the bellhousing on the auto bla bla) .

Disclaimer: don't take this information as gospel , i didn't personally discover this nor have any intrest at the time of what the guy was talking about so information is fairly sketchy

I've had both an RB20DET box and the current RB25DE box in there and the stick position is dead the same. Apart from ratios, those two boxes are identical anyway. Can't comment on stick position of RB30E box, as I have had one within 20' of my car.

You have the wrong mount on the back as well. There is about 5 different brackets for nissan. they are a,b,c,d,e

I think you need the ( a ) bracket for that conversion and it will line up with the bolt holes for the original mount

i still reakon, it is a short type fs5w71 bolted to an RB20 bell housing.

same crap as they are talkign about below (but obviously dif. combination of boxes, most of the bell housings are the same length, but the main shafts vary in length after the sandwich plate, and the rear of the box can be longer & shorter depending on what it is or in, sometimes you have to change the input shaft or the front bearing plate that bolts to tht bell housing. you get what i am saying

http://club-s12.org/v3/index.php?topic=12333.0

Just checked the plate on the firewall, appears it did used to be auto (reads RE4R01a)

If its working fine just leave it there

Working fine, but the clutch is on it's way out, so the box has gotta come out either way (just a matter of whether it goes back in or not)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I thought I'd come back and add something I JUST learned. A Toyota LandCruiser with a 1HZ, mates perfectly with a bottle of Nulon brake fluid. As in, it perfectly screws in. Great make shift funnel when you cut the bottom of it off. This may work for your Corolla.   Unfortunately, tipping a 10L drum is much harder than a 4 to 6L bottle, and they no longer include the easy pour tap which was just perfection to use previously.  
    • Guys since i bought r33 gts25t coupe 1994 automatic a/t(manual swap 350z gearbox)  all i got is problems, always problems. Lets start with that when i turn key into ignition(ON) fuel pump doesnt always works. Sometimes i have to turn key twice Off/on/off/on until it primes. Its new, dw300 - 340lph. My gearbox broke so i did gearbox swap, install different intake manifold, injectors and i take pipes. Car was sitting in garage for more than half a year. I did assembly all not that long ago and when i turn ignition cant hear prime. All of sudden it stopped working. Theres many videos on YouTube how to make relay mod on r33 straight from battery so i did and it doesnt work! 😰 30 - battery positive  87 - positive from fuel pump to relay 85, 86 - one of two wires from original fuel pump wires(light blue, grey) and it didn’t work. so I check on ignition and took original BLUE relays wires from trunk, next to fuses. (I believe it’s IGN+ and ECU pin 18. it didn’t work…  tried connecting (IGN+ from og relay) and (ECU 104 from 1of4 FPCM wires) to my new relay 85/86 and it didn’t work.  I unplug FPCM. Didn’t work. im thinking what’s wrong   fuel pump is working, if I leave IGN+ on 85 and 86 straight to ground it works but it’s just nonstop. Since it getting constant 12v after key in ON. light blue wire gives me 6-8v.  so how this should be connected? What causing ECU not giving — on pin? Or I did sth wrong and that’s why it doesn’t work? I need negative signal on ECU that control fuel pump. What this should be?
    • You can use your VIN to look up the factory part number somewhere like amayama, and then look to order new if necessary. https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/nissan Depending on price you might want to rebuild instead. @GTSBoy I had an interesting insight into US market parts when the Titan rear calipers were sticking. New calipers were dirt cheap, about 20% more than a rebuild kit....they are just considered throw away maintenance items
    • Funny, but really not funny. Thank god (most) f the world has moved on since then
    • Lots of votes for driving onto a plank first; that is the quickest way I've found, 25mm is enough for my case but that will vary by car It also depends where you are going for. On the 32 I can get to the rear diff with my floor jack if I do that end first, and get it up on stands. Then I lift the front from either front tow hook as high as needed, also onto stands. Sometimes I need a small lift on the other tow hook to get it level enough If I do the front first I can't get to the rear diff because of the angle of the car Other options are getting to the front mount of the rear subframe from in front of the wheel (if only lifting one side, or just do both which is a bit of a pain compared to one lift from the diff), or also the gearbox cross member mount on the driver's side if you are  just trying to lift the driver's side. I This is the jack I use; it says 75mm clearance but of course that is only on the lower section so if you have to reach too far in like the diff you still get stuck. https://www.snapon-bluepoint.com.sg/category/Floor-Jacks/product/Floor-Jack,-2-Ton-Low-Profile
×
×
  • Create New...