Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

gts4 still wont be anywhere near as good build wise as a GTR, diff driveline too

yeah but youve got the base to work with.

change engine and diffs for a start to attempting to make a gtr.

could go all out and change the type of attessa.

but the maint point is OP is silly if he wants to convert a rwd 32 to a GTR.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/372683-gtst-to-gtr/#findComment-5944347
Share on other sites

20 grand, shit you can get a clean 32 GTR for 15 these days

when you say clean you mean paint yeah?

i know this. but you better be ready to spend another 10 on maintaining the f**ker.

there is a reason a 15k GTR is 15k

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/372683-gtst-to-gtr/#findComment-5944380
Share on other sites

Thank you guys u have opened my eyes I'm just going to stick to my RWD I like going sideways more than going str8 anyway thnx again guys. Iv already ripped out the RB20 and put in a RB25 motor and box. It pushing out 211kw at the wheels. And other mods I can do to get more power out of it. I have got a Haltech ECU and I'm getting new platinum and a Slightley bigger turbo with a retune people say i will get 400hp at the wheels what are ur thoughts?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/372683-gtst-to-gtr/#findComment-5944530
Share on other sites

as bronx said, you will need bigger injectors to get that sort of power. the stockers generally max out around 240 to 250kw, as does the AFM. that said, with those you should be able to get around 400hp, but that will be th eupper limit of what the stock internals will hold and still be somewhat reliable, so don't be suprised if it goes bang not too much longer.

to the original post, for the cost of converting a gtst to a gtr you could build a stupidly quick gtst which would shit all over a lot of gtr's

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/372683-gtst-to-gtr/#findComment-5944572
Share on other sites

Thnx bois

Yes I am also getting 750 cc injectors forgot to mention that. And I also got a after market fuel pump good for 500hp the name starts with W I forgot the name. Oh this motors only till I finish building my other motor I don't know if it should be a str8 25 or 25/30 what do u boys think?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/372683-gtst-to-gtr/#findComment-5944755
Share on other sites

decent tyres and suspension and even an ecu with launch control will help a lot getting it off the line.

With the Haltech ECU u can program launch control. And iv already got pedders coil over right round the car grips ok for now.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/372683-gtst-to-gtr/#findComment-5944767
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That is way more science than even I would use. I just eyeball it, not even accounting for the non-verticality of the tape measure when held on the lip and the centre at the same time. +/- 2mm is good enough for the girls I go out with.
    • So, before putting them in I need to understand the stock ride height. This is how I measured it: First, check the diameter of the wheel's centre cap, it was 52mm. Then put a piece of masking tape approximately across the centre and measure 27mm (half) from at least 3 sides to get a reasonable idea of the centre of the wheel cap. Mark that with a horizontal line as one measuring point. Then, directly above the wheel on the guard, put another piece of masking tape in approximately the centre. Use a string line to find out the point on the guard above the centre of the wheel cap and mark that. Then it is simple, just a tape measure to check the distance from centre of the wheel to the centre of the guard. Final results where  LF: 381mm RF: 379mm LR: 401mm RR: 400mm Pretty even considering they are 120,000klm old factory springs, lets call that 380 front and 400 rear.
    • So....knowing that I have a problem with power steering temps on track and another Wakefield day booked in next Friday, I've done the obvious thing They are very reasonably priced at $1650, considering they are a big monotube shock, double height adjustable (don't have to change pre-load to change ride height), one way adjustable damping and standard sized and customisable springs if you want something other than what comes with them. They come with 9kg/mm front and 4.5kg/mm front and I went with that as a starting point because I'll add adjustable sway bars too https://justjap.com/products/bc-racing-coilover-kit-ds-ds-infiniti-q50-v37-14-current#description Unfortunately they didn't come with rear strut tops so I've re-used the factory ones which was a bit of a pain. Also, the adjuster for the rear shock will be an absolute nightmare to get at, and while there are extensions in the kit I can't see any way you can actually attach or use them
    • I also had 2 bulbs blow at once, years ago in the stagea. made for a fun drive home. The issue was the voltage regulator had failed in the alternator and it was giving 15+ volts. Really, I was lucky all that was fried were the headlight bulbs. So, I'd suggest you check the voltage across your battery terminals with the car running and warmed up. Yes, you will need a multimeter to do so, sorry.
    • Good work to think to check that, and thanks for coming back to post up the outcome.
×
×
  • Create New...