Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Perhaps get the injectors done at the same time? 200 achievable then?

That would be about the limit of my budget at the moment.

yeh you should be able to, then you'll need a fuel pump.

and dunc said - the suction pipe with restrict you to 176kw to be exact.. only proven one is scotts so far.

intercooler i think is good for 190-200kw

and if your tuner has not touched a VQ25DET before, i would not go to him unless hes VEEEEERRRRYYYYY Reputable. the eManage is currently the only proved EMU that works, and is pushing the numbers. the fact he is dead against it for our car kind of is a worry for you lol

  • Replies 151
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Seems like a few tuners are against the eManage and similar addition/subtraction piggybacks. But if it works, why stuff around?

The tuner I was planning on using is dead against the eManage, but says he can do it (but doesn't know how long it'll take... hmm...), but he's recommending a new Haltech product that works with a 350Z. Every time I ask for a guarantee from either him or Haltech there's nothing but silence. The only other one you can use is a HKS Fcon, but they're much more expensive and even harder to find a tuner for.

Not sure if Scott's is the only proven suction pipe Aaron, Dolphin might disagree, but good luck getting one :P

Also I wouldn't go to a normal exhaust place and get an exhaust made. I'd either go through someone who's keen on doing the development and getting it right (which if you're the guinea pig might mean a few visits, as is my case), or get a Jap cat back and local dump/front pipe. My local exhaust sounds absolutely awesome, but is way too loud and has a drone. Hopefully I'll be going in shortly to get it rectified with a larger resonator.

Ryan, the Dolphin intake doesn't replace the lower restrictive part of the intake only the rubber part afaik.

I think the stock injectors, suction pipe, cooler etc will allow perhaps 190kw on 98. Any more and there are big changes to be made.

That would make sense, it did look kind of weird.

Where did you get your 1000cc injectors from Scotty? Were they plug and play (with the exception of your nuclear engineering upgrade for the cradle and fuel lines)?

Whose making the custom TBE? Any reason you're not going for a tried and tested JDM product? Anticipate drone.

I have a locally made exhaust and no drone.. just make sure you have a reasonable sized mid muffler.

Ryan, the Dolphin intake doesn't replace the lower restrictive part of the intake only the rubber part afaik.

I think the stock injectors, suction pipe, cooler etc will allow perhaps 190kw on 98. Any more and there are big changes to be made.

Yeah, Dolphin intake replaces just the rubber top part. I guess it will stop any suck in, but bottom is still restrictive.

There was a guy on here that posted he had his dynoed at 220kw, with standard injectors & intake. May have been a case of a slightly optomistic dyno perhaps....

Re injectors, has anyone found that running seriously large ones (eg 1000cc) makes tuning for light loads more difficult? And surely economy would be out the window, right?

I'm not convinced that one needs to go that big to achieve good power (and driveability & economy). I have read of cars (similar displacement as ours) making more power with 500cc injectors so there must be enough fuel flowing. Either that or they are more efficient at burning it.

yeh you should be able to, then you'll need a fuel pump.

and dunc said - the suction pipe with restrict you to 176kw to be exact.. only proven one is scotts so far.

intercooler i think is good for 190-200kw

and if your tuner has not touched a VQ25DET before, i would not go to him unless hes VEEEEERRRRYYYYY Reputable. the eManage is currently the only proved EMU that works, and is pushing the numbers. the fact he is dead against it for our car kind of is a worry for you lol

No one will touch emanage over here in W.A.

The tuner is very reputable and a Nissan specialist but I think mine will be the 1st VQ25DET. He has done a few VQ30DET engines. Basically he's the only tuner who's willing to take it on.

He seemed very confident with the exhaust after looking at it, he wanted one larger muffler and a varex exhaust put on.

Ok so we have:

TBE

Piggy back ECU also boost controller 19 pst

Suction pipe

Perhaps cooler depending on funds

Should = 190awkw

Important accompaning mods:

Wire cut mod for throttle restriction

1mm to 2.5mm Banjo mod

Anything else I've missed?

Perhaps 2mm on the banjo, just in case...

What worries me is which Haltech you are going to be using... You will be paying for his steep learning curve but I dont think you have much choice. Perhaps you can get some sort of guarantee out of him, so if it doesn't drive properly he wont charge you? It was his call to go with the Haltech after all.

Anything else I've missed?

With that sort of power I hope you are looking at some braking and suspension mods. This car does have good chassis balance but is under braked especially once you start upping the power.

Seems like a few tuners are against the eManage and similar addition/subtraction piggybacks. But if it works, why stuff around?

The tuner I was planning on using is dead against the eManage, but says he can do it (but doesn't know how long it'll take... hmm...), but he's recommending a new Haltech product that works with a 350Z.

Not sure if Scott's is the only proven suction pipe Aaron, Dolphin might disagree, but good luck getting one :P

lol have you told him we dont have a 350z? nyaanyaa.gif

and below as scott and the commsman said , its only the top rubber bit

Ryan, the Dolphin intake doesn't replace the lower restrictive part of the intake only the rubber part afaik.

I think the stock injectors, suction pipe, cooler etc will allow perhaps 190kw on 98. Any more and there are big changes to be made.

There was a guy on here that posted he had his dynoed at 220kw, with standard injectors & intake. May have been a case of a slightly optomistic dyno perhaps....

lol hmmm

No one will touch emanage over here in W.A.

The tuner is very reputable and a Nissan specialist but I think mine will be the 1st VQ25DET. He has done a few VQ30DET engines. Basically he's the only tuner who's willing to take it on.

He seemed very confident with the exhaust after looking at it, he wanted one larger muffler and a varex exhaust put on.

Ok so we have:

TBE

Piggy back ECU also boost controller 19 pst

Suction pipe

Perhaps cooler depending on funds

Should = 190awkw

Important accompaning mods:

Wire cut mod for throttle restriction

1mm to 2.5mm Banjo mod

Anything else I've missed?

that 190 i think will be depending a lot on your injectors, as in you will be running 90%+ duty cycle, which isnt ideal, but i guess a few on here are doing that and havnt had a problem yet

With that sort of power I hope you are looking at some braking and suspension mods. This car does have good chassis balance but is under braked especially once you start upping the power.

lol yeh i should probably get around to doing mine, just becoming really lazy confused.gif

Perhaps 2mm on the banjo, just in case...

What worries me is which Haltech you are going to be using... You will be paying for his steep learning curve but I dont think you have much choice. Perhaps you can get some sort of guarantee out of him, so if it doesn't drive properly he wont charge you? It was his call to go with the Haltech after all.

Good call. He seems like a reasonable bloke and I don't think it'll be a problem getting him to guarantee his work. I'll find out which Haltech and get back to you mate. 190 at least is reasonable, I think you said they're about 140 stock so it should feel a lot quicker than now.

With that sort of power I hope you are looking at some braking and suspension mods. This car does have good chassis balance but is under braked especially once you start upping the power.

For now around 190 awkw it looks like. I'll look to save more money for the next lot of major mods.

The tuner I was going to use was recommending this: http://www.haltech.com.au/index.php/product/platinum-sprint-series/platinum-sprint-500 Can't imagine your bloke recommending any different for $2.5k, but that is $1.5k worth of setup and tuning... :whistling:

Leon, isn't the 1000cc injectors really only so you've got headway later on, particularly for E85? I can't imagine they'd be necessary for my short term setup, but long term they should be, and when E85 becomes more common in SA I'll go that way.

And as Andy said, some good suspension and breaking mods; set of BCs, Whiteline sway bars from Daleo, and either some decent pads and slotted rotors, 350Z Track Brembos or R32 GTR Brembos.

correct me if im wrong guys but

the vq25det runs a nissan/renault secret squirrel super-dooper ecu that makes a 350z ecu look like a calculator

also, heaps of things are run down a CAN line (like a lan cable for cars) so you can't easily chop wires and intercept things

For now around 190 awkw it looks like. I'll look to save more money for the next lot of major mods.

A 50awkw increase is nothing to sneeze at; that would be a solid start IMO.

Obviously, the little devil starts whispering in your ear, but given a couple of NM35's have run 14.3- 14.4 sec quarters with an exhaust & air filter; that would equate to a very low 14, possibly high 13 sec quarter mile.

Just an FYI on the Haltech....I had the Interceptor......I battled with it for a good six months......in the end I took it off and my car made more power with the stock ECU.

Jus so you know.....even though you have a piggyback(any piggyback) the standard ECU will try to tune around it....and quite often succeed!

Just an FYI on the Haltech....I had the Interceptor......I battled with it for a good six months......in the end I took it off and my car made more power with the stock ECU.

Jus so you know.....even though you have a piggyback(any piggyback) the standard ECU will try to tune around it....and quite often succeed!

Lol

correct me if im wrong guys but

the vq25det runs a nissan/renault secret squirrel super-dooper ecu that makes a 350z ecu look like a calculator

also, heaps of things are run down a CAN line (like a lan cable for cars) so you can't easily chop wires and intercept things

Pretty much right.

Also the ECU controls the gearbox, throttle and accessories, so you can't just ditch it for a standalone without going to a cable throttle like Scotty has tried.

AFAIK the VQ25DET was only used in the NM35, so people aren't in a mad rush to develop piggy backs etc for them.

I'm convinced that Haltech would be a better choice... if it was guaranteed to work. But there are no guarantees, so go with what you know works!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I know why it happened and I’m embarrassed to say but I was testing the polarity of one of the led bulb to see which side was positive with a 12v battery and that’s when it decided to fry hoping I didn’t damage anything else
    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
×
×
  • Create New...