Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

Yet another part for you to spend your hard earned cash on......Transgo Shift Kits.

Hopefully in another 2 weeks I will have available an exchange Valve Body with the Transgo Shift kit.

Prices as below and only estimated atm (will more than likely go down a little).....they will also vary depending on the US dollar.

* Exchange VB $500 cash.

* Exchange VB + fit with the recommended oil(Sydney only) $750 cash.

anyway thoughts guy's!

Edited by Jetwreck
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/373138-nm35-stagea-slushbox/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 183
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Im interested, is it a stage 2 style shift kit that will chirp into low gears? Im not really keen on a shift like this, just want to banish the flare between shifts.

sorry...this is the kit that will be used....I will post up results as soon as I do it and get in the car.....from memory it was very drivable when I drove Scott's car....no chirping!

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/TransGo-Stage-2-Shift-Kit-RE5R05A-Auto-Transmission-/350313868972?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5190556eac#ht_2769wt_907

Im interested, is it a stage 2 style shift kit that will chirp into low gears? Im not really keen on a shift like this, just want to banish the flare between shifts.

The reading I've done on U.S. based installs (Titan VK56 engined 4x4's and 350Z's) seems to indicate the shifts at light load are basically the same as standard; and is not really very noticeable. It's only under full load (100% throttle) that you get the really fast, soild shifting with a possible chirp.

I think this is related to the fact that our cars feel like they retard the timing on an upshift; both to smooth the shift, and to reduce load on the box. This is fairly common strategy with autos (especially in high torque applications) and I'm sure Scotty could probably shed more light on the exact reasons.

So if you where to use 50% throttle, will it chirp 1-2 and 2-3 changes?

When I first bought my 180sx it was an auto and I had MV Automatics fit a stage 2 shift kit and 3000rpm stall. It was great when you wanted to launch it but would chirp into 2nd with 50% and more throttle. I don't really want the M35 to be like that. Must be getting too old pinch.gif

Edited by slippylotion

So I rang MV Automatics again today to confirm the kit he was talking about is the Trans Go and it is. He said after all the work of fitting it it doesn't make a huge different to the shifts. I find this hard to believe after my own research on the inter web. I know MV definitely knows what he is talking about when it comes to transmissions but Im very lost with his findings.

So Jetwreck hurry up and get yours in so we can get another point of view cheers.gif

Edited by slippylotion

So I rang MV Automatics again today to confirm the kit he was talking about is the Trans Go and it is. He said after all the work of fitting it it doesn't make a huge different to the shifts. I find this hard to believe after my own research on the inter web. I know MV definitely knows what he is talking about when it comes to transmissions but Im very lost with his findings.

So Jetwreck hurry up and get yours in so we can get another point of view cheers.gif

mine is going in tomorrow night with my current clapped out gearbox....all fingers crossed.....I should see petty much straight away if there is a difference.

BTW....was he trying to sell his own version of the VB??...and what kit did he suggest to use instead?

Na thats the good thing about him, he wasn't pushing any kit at all. He said there wasn't a "good" shift available for the M35 that he is happy to fit and sell. So he didn't have an option for me at all. Thats why Im really confused by what he said.

Eagerly awaiting your results

Edited by slippylotion

I went for a ride in Aarons, but didn't get to drive. It felt a lot better than mine, but I'd imagine it'd feel even better when you're driving.

I'd be interested to see how the Trans Go version compares to the RVO version Aaron has. I think the RVO one was cheaper too wasn't it?

If Aarons kit is just upping the pressure I would assume that could limit the life and reliability of the trans, unless the pressure hasn't been lifted too much but then it might not get the desired results. Its definitely better to go a modified valve body than just upping the line pressure. From what I know thumbsup.gif

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...