Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 2 months later...
  • Replies 183
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

The only time I notice the thump is when I'm dawdling in traffic; get a bit of harshness into second.

I actually much prefer what I have now, even my missus gets a bit of a grin when it squats & goes on a gearchange now.thumbsup.gif

I have bit of a harsh shift when its cold shifting but only into third....the rest of the time it's pretty good.

Have you checked your flux capacitor levels?

Oh shit i'm not in the V35 section atm! :P

Edited by Jetwreck

I have bit of a harsh shift when its cold shifting but only into third....the rest of the time it's pretty good.

Have you checked your flux capacitor levels?

Oh shit i'm not in the V35 section atm! :P

Dear Jetwreck; I think my Flux Capacitorz is borked, if I givez you dolarz can you do a highflowz on it?thumbsup.gif

Seriously though; how do I get better performance from my F/C? Is it time for a high performance rewind?

I have bit of a harsh shift when its cold shifting but only into third....the rest of the time it's pretty good.

Have you checked your flux capacitor levels?

Oh shit i'm not in the V35 section atm! :P

Thats a bit harsh!!!:rolleyes:

BTW thanks for organising to get my HKS kit down to me.:cheers:

Thats a bit harsh!!!:rolleyes:

BTW thanks for organising to get my HKS kit down to me.:cheers:

Lolz......not a problem bud....if I knew how easy it was to install you might have received a vq25 turbo kit instead! :P

  • 5 weeks later...

Jetwreck can you help me with a shift kit for the c34 stagea? I'm in Adelaide, I would like a trans cooler installed also if you can quote me on both that would be great. Need you to supply and fit the parts please....

Thanks Peter. Here is my email [email protected]

  • 2 months later...

mines pretty good havent had a problem yet im dissapointed in the reaction time on full throttle but cant do much about it definetly a great mod!

I have found the box shifts perfectly if the temps are normal, if its too cold it wont change into gear at full throttle and if its too hot its not happy either.

I was going to try and trick the gearbox temp sensors so it thinks everything is fine but I guess it may cause issues. Best bet is to put an inline thermostat so the box comes up to temp quickly (due to the radiator) then diverts the fluid through the trans cooler once its up to temp.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/LONG-OIL-THERMOSTAT-COLD-CLIMATES-OC-708-4739-/350566704951?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item519f676737#ht_820wt_1159

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...