Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ive seen a dry nos kit for 500$ it looks like an solinoid and a spray nozzol that u instale into filter box or directly into k&n filter.switches .bottle..other parts , they say u get 50-150hp. can some one shine some light upon this for me.

does it work ,what does it do to your engine & turbo. & in the long run is worth it.

my car has front mount intercooler ,boost controler ,turbo timmer ,apexi exsors system ,k&n filter

thanks if u can help out a dreamer.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/373525-nos-kit/
Share on other sites

If you are seriously considering Nitrous (and I mean seriously considering it, not just because your mate said it's cool) I suggest spending a solid day researching exactly what it is, how it works, what are the differences between all the systems, what you want out of it etc.

Only then should you consider looking into buying a kit. Otherwise you will be like most amatuer nitrous users and cook an engine.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/373525-nos-kit/#findComment-5958800
Share on other sites

ive seen a dry nos kit for 500$ it looks like an solinoid and a spray nozzol that u instale into filter box or directly into k&n filter.switches .bottle..other parts , they say u get 50-150hp. can some one shine some light upon this for me.

does it work ,what does it do to your engine & turbo. & in the long run is worth it.

my car has front mount intercooler ,boost controler ,turbo timmer ,apexi exsors system ,k&n filter

thanks if u can help out a dreamer.

Nos is killer ignore the knockers.... but better off with a "wet" kit.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/373525-nos-kit/#findComment-5959172
Share on other sites

Pleeeeease for get it... just leave it well alone!

I favor nitrous over most on this site... I probably have more experience with nitrous than most on this site too...

Stay away from cheap dry nitrous kits...

thanks for that i realy dont one too rebuild an engine 4 a couple of skwerts or invest $40000 in an rebuilt engine.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/373525-nos-kit/#findComment-5959528
Share on other sites

In a nutshell a dry system injects only nitrous into your intake. This would normally kill an engine straight away. So your ECU has to detect that nitrous has been activated and adjust the tune by adding more fuel from the injectors. There are some benefits to doing it like this but for most cases in cars such as ours it isn't the way to do things and is just asking for problems.

A wet system on the other hand injects fuel and nitrous into the intake and that's all that needs to be done. ECU doesn't need to do a thing. Lot easier and safer.

Videos to explain it:

Not sure if that was what you wanted to know or whether you actually wanted the details on it. Figured that was a brief enough explanation to understand it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/373525-nos-kit/#findComment-5959597
Share on other sites

Nice :D

Yeah research is the key. With nitrous you really need to understand how everything works as even a slight mistake can cost you big not to mention having an engine let go under full throttle while at speed is just plain dangerous.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/373525-nos-kit/#findComment-5959634
Share on other sites

So a dry shot will cut your fuel and run straight NOS..

I didnt even know you could do that I thought it was always mixed with fuel by injecting it into your manifolds airstream, so a dry system i would of never considered.

So would you just have one nozzle in before TB or a sepeerate nozzle for each intake runner.

Also as far as i know it is only used when at full throttle unless you have some sort of staging fogger system or something right?

Does this mean only full throttle in top gear or could you give it a squirt in 3rd or 4th?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/373525-nos-kit/#findComment-5959682
Share on other sites

No the dry system has to use the injectors to richen up the mixture. It's only called "dry" because the kit itself has nothing to do with fuel.

One nozzle before the throttle. Individual nozzles for each runner is done when you are talking about a serious shot of nitrous when one nozzle simply can't flow enough.

Yep always done on full throttle. Kits come with a manual switch setup which is gay so you can instead run an electronic TPS setup through a window switch or through an aftermarket ECU.

Any gear in reality. Comes down to traction though. However you should never hit limiter with nitrous engaged and you should be above 3000RPM. This is where the window switch/ECU control is much better than the simple manual switch setup they give you.

Like I said, there is plenty of things to learn about and it mainly comes down to learning the dangers and how to prevent them.

EDIT: I found the videos I was looking for. They explain it the best. So scroll back up to where I first posted the photos and watch the videos.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/373525-nos-kit/#findComment-5959688
Share on other sites

Yep basically.

Mine is setup through the Vipec to arm off of a missile switch. Once armed it will only activate on full throttle (TPS 100%) and only between 3000-6000RPM. I also have first and second gear locked out so it will only activate in third or above (due to traction and not wanting to kill myself with an uncontrollable car lol).

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/373525-nos-kit/#findComment-5959710
Share on other sites

First thing to get into your head is that its not just $500, you can get a standard wet kit for around that price, obviously get a wet kit, However that is just the basic kit that if you run on its own, well your most likely going to blow shit up.

Your going to spend at least another 500-1000 on NEEDED accessories, such as Bottle Warmer, Purge Kit, then you need a rpm controller so that your nos is automatically injected between certain rpm.

If you don't want to break stuff except to spend at least a good 1.2k maybe less given the dollar, when I got my stuff dollar was a a lot lower so.

This is a good site to get stuff from

http://www.dynotunen...pts/default.asp

Obviously for a kit you can get something like a Sniper Kit off ebay and save $100 on shipping from the states.

Edited by P.K
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/373525-nos-kit/#findComment-5959864
Share on other sites

I'm gonna put a 100 shot, Wet Nitrous set-up for my 350Z later on down the track, i agree with you Phil do plenty of research because if you get it wrong then you will probably hurt your engine quite badly.

If you do enough reaserch, you'll find that most US based kits are pretty crappy... the solinoids are woefull. NX is brobably the best of a bad bunch.

For a safe, efficient and reliable nitrous system- look past the 'brands'. Especially for an expensive car.

50hp dry shot provided you have the fuel for but for over 75hp go wet.

Most people would not be able to set up a dry system correctly... most will get an initial lean out.

First thing to get into your head is that its not just $500, you can get a standard wet kit for around that price, obviously get a wet kit, However that is just the basic kit that if you run on its own, well your most likely going to blow shit up.

Your going to spend at least another 500-1000 on NEEDED accessories, such as Bottle Warmer, Purge Kit, then you need a rpm controller so that your nos is automatically injected between certain rpm.

If you don't want to break stuff except to spend at least a good 1.2k maybe less given the dollar, when I got my stuff dollar was a a lot lower so.

This is a good site to get stuff from

http://www.dynotunen...pts/default.asp

Obviously for a kit you can get something like a Sniper Kit off ebay and save $100 on shipping from the states.

As above... to do it properly, it's going to cost tripple your initial investment. Then once you have the whole lot up and running, you have to re-build most generic solinoids constantly to ensure eeerm 'reliability'.

PS- Dynotunenitrous.com gear is often found to be a poorer product to holley NOS.. I wouldn't use it on my scooter!

Some of the best info found about nitrous is found on:

http://www.noswizard.com/

http://forum.nitrous-advice.org/

Edited by XRATED
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/373525-nos-kit/#findComment-5959942
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It was a great, but typical track day, and some VB was ingested at the night time debrief 🤪
    • And so, to round this out, I couldn't be happier to confirm @MBS206 has decided to buy the car. He drove down from sunny QLD with a trailer last week and it is off to its new home today. I'll let Matt confirm on next steps but I understand broadly that the plan is to leave it pretty much as is, and just get some quality wheel time with a nicely balanced car that is pretty much track ready. There are a few a jobs still to be done first but nothing too major and I think its a very smart buy Dinner last night at the Paragon with a round of VBs (mostly) for Neil
    • Well, 50 pages and the end of a chapter for this car. We took it out for a shakedown at Wakie yesterday, and everything went well. There were a couple of niggles: - Oil cooler fitting leak - tightened, cleaned, stopped leaking - Radiator cap overflow fitting was leaking....Mark called it, the overflow fitting was threaded in and not tight....tightened, tested and held pressure - Small oil leak at the rear of the block, probably the turbo oil feed - too hot to get at it comfortably but probably just needs to be nipped up - leak at the driver's side rear brake line where it meets the hardline. Fitting wasn't loose, so Matt backed it off and back on, no further leaks - there's also a leak somewhere on the top of the fuel tank, maybe that cross over fuel line - that was has been left to fix when its on a hoist Otherwise than those niggles the car went great, turned great and stopped great so it was a very successful day out. I'm always really nervous when a car first hits the track after a long break, especially with a brand new engine as well but it was great. VID-20251011-WA0007.mp4  Big thanks to @The Bogan who dropped by and helped out, @MBS206 and my nephew Lachlan the apprentice.  Neil's wife Mel also surprised the hell out of all of us by dropping by; she's up in Tamworth these days but was travelling to Melbourne so had plausible deniability for turning up at the garage, it was great to see her but also obviously a bit sad all round.
    • Skyline R33 Series 2 sedan tail lights in excellent condition. These are becoming harder to find, especially in this state.    BOTH SETS ARE IN FANTASTIC CONDITION (REFER TO PHOTOS)    ✅ No broken covers or cracks ✅ Lenses are in flawless condition ✅ All rear mounting lugs intact ✅ Comes complete as pictured ✅ Perfect for restoration, replacement, or upgrade   These lights are ready to go, no surprises just quality OEM parts.   These are definitely one of the better sets we have seen in a while. With minimal wear and tear they will come as you see. Bear in mind they are not brand new they are almost 30 years old now. To find them in this condition isn’t easy they can only be obtained on the second hand market.   Australia Wide Postage Available At Buyers Expense. Silver Set:$850 Grey Set:$850 PM Me for purchase or any other questions  IMG_2166.dng IMG_2165.dng IMG_2172.dng IMG_2173.dng IMG_2174.dng IMG_2179.dng IMG_2180.dng IMG_2260.dng IMG_2258.dng IMG_2259.dng IMG_2261.dng IMG_2266.dng IMG_2273.dng IMG_2274.dng IMG_2276.dng
    • Unsolicited advice? Keep the engine as close to stock as you can. Nothing wrong with adding some boost and making a little more power, but given where you are, you really don't want to try to make it into a monster. I can't imagine the roads are up to it, and the lack of locla support when it grenades will be a ball ache. FWIW, If there is a dyno around that you can access, then brand new injectors are a good idea, which will lead you to (at least) putting a Nistune in it, which will allow you to put an R35 AFM on it, all of which will make it possible to make it much much nicer to drive and live with.
×
×
  • Create New...