Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Mmmm - I don't think that statement is accurate. My mum also has a 2005 RAV4 Cruiser 2.4L 4 speed auto. The n/a R34 sedan is quicker in all aspects in comparison to the RAV4.

Apparently the n/a R33 (i've never driven one) are the real slugs due to not having variable valve timing and variable intake length manifolds, but I'm just going from what I've been told.

Would I say the n/a R34 is fast - No

Does it handle/brake well - Yes.

I've said this in another post, n/a R34's performance is on par with a relativly late model 4 cylinder Camry.

Any commodore from VN onwards will leave you behind from 80km/h onwards (rolling acceleration).

Anything under 80km/h the n/a R34 will do reasonably well - you just got to keep the revs up.

Auto will make it slower. Phils mums might be manual which will make it a bit faster.

Just saying

Dont the N/A R33's have VCT?

Auto will make it slower. Phils mums might be manual which will make it a bit faster.

Just saying

Dont the N/A R33's have VCT?

yeah they do.

otherwise it wouldnt only be R32 RB25DE heads that people rave on about for making 25/30s

Auto will make it slower. Phils mums might be manual which will make it a bit faster.

Just saying

Dont the N/A R33's have VCT?

Yep - Good point, I forgot to take that into account.

But in saying that the RAV4 is heavier by around 150kg and has less power to start with, also the AWD system would sap quite alot of power.

A Rav4 cruiser and a R33 GTS both do 0-100 around 9-11 seconds. ie. Slow.

The point of my comment is that non turbo skylines are as slow as any normal passenger vehicle. Hell a stock GTST is quite slow by todays standards.

A Rav4 cruiser and a R33 GTS both do 0-100 around 9-11 seconds. ie. Slow.

The point of my comment is that non turbo skylines are as slow as any normal passenger vehicle. Hell a stock GTST is quite slow by todays standards.

Of course.

I came out of a 1.4L cubic so my NA 34 feels pretty good.

On the other hand my brother in laws got a 350HP evo 6, so if i compare the cube to the 34 its fast or compare to the evo to the 34 its slow.

as someone said before P Plates are just the turbo lag of life.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The oil pressure sensor for logging, does it happen to be the one that was slowly breaking out of the oil block? If it is,I would be ignoring your logs. You had a leak at the sensor which would mean it can't read accurately. It's a small hole at the sensor, and you had a small hole just before it, meaning you could have lost significant pressure reading.   As for brakes, if it's just fluid getting old, you won't necessarily end up with air sitting in the line. Bleed a shit tonne of fluid through so you effectively replace it and go again. Oh and, pay close attention to the pressure gauge while on track!
    • I don't know it is due to that. It could just be due to load on track being more than a dyno. But it would be nice to rule it out. We're talking a fraction of a second of pulling ~1 degree of timing. So it's not a lot, but I'd rather it be 0... Thicker oil isn't really a "bandaid" if it's oil that is going to run at 125C, is it? It will be thicker at 100 and thus at 125, where the 40 weight may not be as thick as one may like for that use. I already have a big pump that has been ported. They (They in this instance being the guy that built my heads) port them so they flow more at lower RPM but have a bypass spring that I believe is ~70psi. I have seen 70psi of oil pressure up top in the past, before I knew I had this leak. I have a 25 row oil cooler that takes up all the space in the driver side guard. It is interesting that GM themselves recommend 0-30 oil for their Vette applications. Unless you take it to the track where the official word is to put 20-50w oil in there, then take that back out after your track day is done and return to 0-30.
    • Nice, looks great. Nice work getting the factory parts also. Never know when you'll need them.
    • Thanks @jtha7 I will have a look around tomorrow but it is a prick of a spot. These are some photos i tried taking 
    • I take it that the knock retard is from bearings tapping a little tune? Thicker oil is a fragile bandaid. You need a much bigger oil cooler and probably the bigger pump being discussed.
×
×
  • Create New...