Jump to content
SAU Community

Piston/rod Combo On A Budget?

stiddy

By stiddy,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

stiddy Contributor

stiddy

Posted
Posted

Hey all,

RB25DET motor...

If you had $2000-$2500 to spend on Pistons and Rods.. What would you get?

Ive had a look around and asked alot of performance shops.. Ive got an idea of what I want. Ive heard everything from CP, Spool, JE/Nitto, Eagle, Manley, Mahle to ACL..

In your opinion what would be the best combo for the money.

Set up I currently have, is tomei forged rods/pistons, tomei cams/cam gears.. and i've melted/cracked a piston on 1.7bar at 8200rpm. Want to buy rods and pistons.

Thanks,

Matt

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/374381-pistonrod-combo-on-a-budget/
Share on other sites
R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

2.5k will get you plenty of decent stuff outta the US at the moment.

There are plenty of Rod/Piston Combo's to be had from ebay retailers.

Just make sure they have an actual website/business as well, not just the 'backyarder' style ebay seller.

Although if you cracked/melted a piston mate, that wasn't a fault of the mechanicals...

stiddy Contributor

stiddy

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Although if you cracked/melted a piston mate, that wasn't a fault of the mechanicals...

Yep, understand this. Perfectly. But, it needs to be fixed. Thought about going a 2.8 stroker... but for now just want to get new rods and pistons in the thing, get it running and keep the mrs happy lol.

Can you recommend any parts? people in the states? links maybe?

Because of so many different choices its made it harder to choose.. if that makes sence? is anything brand/part better than the other?

Car did make 510rwhp. before deciding to empty the sump though the catch can breather and blow smoke like ive never seen lol.

Thanks for the quick reply.

Matt

The Dan Grand Master

The Dan

Posted
Posted

I'd work out why a forged piston melted before deciding which one you want to melt next

510hp is nothing, 1.7 bar is nothing and 8200rpm is nothing

The answer to your question is not which one is going to be best, it's which one you can get the easiest and cheapest. They are all equal and no matter what anyone tells you, they are all going to be perfectly fine in your application. It's not until you start making over 1000 hp that piston choice really matters

Beer Baron Grand Master

Beer Baron

Posted
Posted

for my money given current forex rates i would go with:

tomei rods (had between $1000-$1200 at the moment and very nice)

as the guys said there is lots of good piston options out there. so piston choice is a bit more open.

CP pistons are a fine choice.

or maybe some mahle short skirt pistons if you are that way inclined.

there's other good options too for reasonable money, just do a bit of research on what people are currently using in RBs.

89CAL Grand Master

89CAL

Posted
Posted

Full rebuild kit for $2090.

http://www.spoolimports.com/spool-engine-rebuild-kits/nissan/rb20det-rebuild-kit

spool rods

cp pistons

cometic gasket

bearings

bla bla bla

RB20DET rebuild kit?

I posted a link to the 25 kit about 4 posts ago............

stiddy Contributor

stiddy

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks everyone for your input.. its been helpful :)

Ive ordered a set of Manley H-beam rods with ARP2000 rod bolts, .020 over CP pistons (almost got Weisco pistons but figured CP would be the way to go after more reseaching).

Also ordered ARP headstuds.

Now looking into barings. Probably use ACL Race series or maybe Tomei.. havent really decided yet

As for the headgasket im looking at either a Tomei or a Cometic.

Anymore opinions on barings and gaskets??

Will rip the motor out and start stripping it down this weekend, will send the block off to be acid dipped, bored, honed and get all the machine work done.

Hopefully get it back next weekend and start bolting it all back together.

Heres hoping the crank is ok, or i'll get a new crank rather than have it machined and fit oversized barings, i dont like that idea.

Figure while its out i'll fit a Ross Harmonic metal jacket balancer.

Thats about all I can think of for now..

Cheers,

Matt

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • iain_ST44GA
      M35 VQ25DET starter motor

      By iain_ST44GA · Posted

      Hi Guys, Does anyone know any aftermarket part numbers for a starter motor to suit the VQ25DET? I can find lots of alternative part number for the VQ35DE, which I assume would fit, but there is a lot of conflicting information out there. Thanks..
    • Murray_Calavera
      R33 GTR running -9 with no tune

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      I don't understand how this hasn't boiled down to - Upgrade the turbo when you have everything required. ECU, injectors, fuel pump, turbo, etc. Do it all at once.  If you don't have everything required, just enjoy the car as it is and keep saving up your pennies. 
    • Duncan
      R33 GTR running -9 with no tune

      By Duncan · Posted

      Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Duncan
      New kid on the block

      By Duncan · Posted

      Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Duncan
      Coolant leak?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
×
×
  • Create New...