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so had the 31 clubs dyno day today down at boostin oz in salisbury.

was an awesome day.

laurel performed well and pretty much on par with what i was expecting.

made 167.7rwkw on the first run and then 167.6 on the second. afr's are out to the shit house. rich/lean/rich/lean haha.

finally found an r32 ecu which i recieved today, so will be gettin nistuned this week then off to boostworx for a remap. hopefully can push up near 200.

will have some pics and vids up soon once they upload

yes as nick as stated all a31/c33 ecu's are poo for tunning/power , they basicly have a heart beat of lean AFR's which do them no good when its time to tune/ make more power, i even noticed nearly all hunting issues gone and a smoother run once i ran a r32 ecu in, credits to trent at checkered tunning for giving me the heads up :thumbsup:

note, pretty sure i stated the same thing in this very thread, fail! for not listening to my online gospel preaching :merli:

lol yeah you said not to bother tuning the laurel ecu.

and so i havent. just didnt realise there was a difference in tune from standard plus i was bein lazy :P

but it is good to know and will be in tomorrow night and nistune on thursday. then hopefully only a couple weeks till full remap :)

ok new ecu is in. havent driven it. apparently its out of a late model 32

part number is mec-r212

instantly seems better. started the car up and the idle is 100% better then with the laurel ecu.

nistune will be installed this week some time. and tune soon

i believe its actually an mec-r212b

on the case it has mec-r212 in one box and then next to it is a b and then in the next box 2703

according to matt (guy who made nistune) it will be fine.

i have just taken it for a decent drive. did about 60ks.

seems fine idle is great, revs smoothly. and fuel consumption seems better already.

tryin to upload pic of the ecu itself but phone is bein a moron

ok pics.

2012-05-02_201104.jpg

2012-05-02_201111.jpg

2012-05-02_201135.jpg

judging by the writing on it in the second pic its come from a wrecker at some point. so im assuming its the right thing...

either way accordin to matt even if its a non turbo computer for all intentions its exactly the same. once the turbo map is put on it itll be just like a stock 20det ecu.

so i decided that "a little elbow grease" was way to hard.

yesturday i bought a buff pad that is for a drill, bought my drill home from work this morning and went at one of the wheels with it along with some liquid autosol.

results are awesome.

this is after about 10mins. only done the spokes, 90% of the water marks are gone.

once i get the spokes out of the barrels ill go over it properly along with the rim.

id brought what i thought were the appropriate sized socket and spanner home... turns out volk uses 10mm bolt heads and 10mm nuts.

where as work uses 8mm bolt heads and 12mm nuts. haha

20120512_111000.jpg

this hasnt actually discoloured as you can tell from the previous pic. im assuming its the reflection from my high vis orange work shirt haha.

20120512_110253.jpg

here is an untouch wheel for reference.

20120512_110949.jpg

anyone got any ideas on how to get the bolts all shiny again? i was thinkin just soak them in a light acid. they destroyed the buff pad i was usin. and cbf doin it by hand.

alternatively thinkin about paintin them black for some contrast?

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