Gtst-4 Rb20 Possible Bottom End Gone

[s213b]

hi,

ive heard that the gtst-4 rb20's are 'not like the others' in sense that i cannot just go out and get a regular rb20 from an r32 and slap her in.... the gtst4 one is off a stagea, correct?

My budget isnt huge, but im after reliability over anything else, im thinking rb25? Will r32 rb26 be a straight bolt in?

How difficult will a stagea rb25 converison be?

or should i just rebuild my rb20 with a good oil pump, and race bearings?

what would you do in my situation!?!?

thanks

[DR 32R]

Stagea rb25, (going into my gts4), stagea neo are my pics, see blind elks posts. The rb26 gos in. With all, expect some unexpected work.

[s213b]

If I were to swap motors I might as well go rb26. Yes? I'm after a reliable (most important for me) 250kw at 4 wheels. Are rb25 stages neo's easy to find? Average pricefixit 26/25? 25 = 2k. 26= 3/4k yeh?

[SimonR32]

If you are after 250rwkw, the RB25 neo would be your most reliable and cheapest option

[s213b]

Will it be difficult finding one to suit my gtst-4 tho?

Wouldn't rb26 be simpler, despite the higher price?

Or should I just use the money to rebuild the rb20 and make it more reliable?

Arrgghh so many choices, but yes, I'm after the cheapest, most reliable way of getting 250 awkw. Yes awkw.

Inputs appreciated!

[KiwiRS4T]

In your position I would get a neo Stagea motor GTR box (if you're currently auto otherwise your manual box should be ok) and pull it down and do rings and bearings. Get a GTT ecu and loom and with a Nistune (or Link if you can afford it) and the right turbo etc it will make an easy 260 - 280 awkw.

Here's one (ask in the Stagea section and you might find one nearer to you):

http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/nissan/engines/auction-402062421.htm

[DR 32R]

If I were to swap motors I might as well go rb26. Yes? I'm after a reliable (most important for me) 250kw at 4 wheels. Are rb25 stages neo's easy to find? Average pricefixit 26/25? 25 = 2k. 26= 3/4k yeh?

I got my Stagea stuff by placing wanted adds on here. There are multiple japanese autoparts specialist importers who probably want an order/deposit, most of the time to bring in a stagea neo. The neo is arguably the most modern of the three motors with GTR rb26 bits, strong rods, solid head, but VVT as well. The gtr/rb26 means you'll have to decide if you want the twin turbo spaghetti, (and twin steel over ceramic turbos), will give you the individual throtlle bodies, solid head, and no VVT, rb26s are generally lying around at most wreckers. But then you might need one with a 33 crank, and steel turbos, upping the budjet again.

IMHO. The Stagea neo is the best engine for your goal. You may have to order one in.

Consider a RIPS bottom end or motor!

Edited August 24, 2011 by WHITE gtt

[s213b]

After some more research I've decided to rebuild my 20 for the following reasons;

I only have about 3k to spend,

I would rather build an engine and drive a freshie rather than one that I have no idea about k's etc,

My engine still starts, which has left me thinking all I need is a new oil pump with collar mod and acl race bearings.

I have a friend who builds race v8's and might be able to get him to help me built this on a budget. Overall power is now less important than cost and reliability.

Rb20 with,

Acl race bearings,

Nismo oil pump with collar mod,

Forged pistons (brands?)

Arp head studs,

Tiny head port and polish, (cast clean up really)

And then a gd quality gasket kit.

This should give me a nice, reliable motor (forged pistons dependent on cost) and with a nistune and my r33 bb highflow, 3" turbo de-catted back, pod/ cai/ 3" cooler pipe on my big cooler, apexi avcr boost controller, forward facing intake, (injectors depending on maxing or not) Bosch 400hp pump, splitfire coils, z32 on 17 psi should make atleast 250awkw, right?

[sydking]

mate im doing a motor conversion in my GTS4 either rb25det or a neo, either orr are good options, and even better in a 32, but Money is the only thing thats stops most of us

[DR 32R]

After some more research I've decided to rebuild my 20 for the following reasons;

I only have about 3k to spend,

I would rather build an engine and drive a freshie rather than one that I have no idea about k's etc,

My engine still starts, which has left me thinking all I need is a new oil pump with collar mod and acl race bearings.

I have a friend who builds race v8's and might be able to get him to help me built this on a budget. Overall power is now less important than cost and reliability.

Rb20 with,

Acl race bearings,

Nismo oil pump with collar mod,

Forged pistons (brands?)

Arp head studs,

Tiny head port and polish, (cast clean up really)

And then a gd quality gasket kit.

i think it will still be cheaper and much more torqey with a carefully chosen Stagea rb25

This should give me a nice, reliable motor (forged pistons dependent on cost) and with a nistune and my r33 bb highflow, 3" turbo de-catted back, pod/ cai/ 3" cooler pipe on my big cooler, apexi avcr boost controller, forward facing intake, (injectors depending on maxing or not) Bosch 400hp pump, splitfire coils, z32 on 17 psi should make atleast 250awkw, right?

I still think you'll find it cheaper and the result more powerful and torquey installing a well chosen stagea

Edited August 25, 2011 by WHITE gtt

[James_03]

I personally wouldn't spend money on a 20 under any circumstances. There just a boat anchor.

I didn't even change the oil in my 20 nics, because it didn't deserve it.

[DR 32R]

A 250awkw 2.5 or 2.6 is going to be better to drive than a 250awkw rb20.

[s213b]

But who's to say I buy a motor with 'only 96000 ks on clock' and it turns out to be a shitter? Surely if the labour is cheap/free a strong 20 would be worth the piece of mind?

A 25 will set me back around 2.5 and that's no labour.

[James_03]

But who's to say I buy a motor with 'only 96000 ks on clock' and it turns out to be a shitter? Surely if the labour is cheap/free a strong 20 would be worth the piece of mind?

A 25 will set me back around 2.5 and that's no labour.

Surley there are importers local to you? When I purchased a 25 from an importer here in Brisbane I walked in with a comp gauge and comp tested a 100k odd motor myself. Took one of the top cam covers off for inspection with there permission. Comp test came back fine, under the cover looked good, so I bought the motor.

If you just want to blindely pickup a motor with X amount of k's without checking anything then it has the potential to bite you obviously. It's just common sense really.

But hey what do I really care, I know your going to build up the 20 anyway without listening to anyone to good luck with it.

Just be fully aware that the 25 will shit on it everytime when your compare mod for mod.

[s213b]

I'm still unsure which way I want to go, at the moment, price is the issue. I would love a 25 but if rebuilding the 20 is cheaper I'll do that.

Has anyone rebuilt a 20 (thats stopped for the same reason mine did) that can give me a rough rebuild estimate?

[SimonR32]

I'm still unsure which way I want to go, at the moment, price is the issue. I would love a 25 but if rebuilding the 20 is cheaper I'll do that.

Has anyone rebuilt a 20 (thats stopped for the same reason mine did) that can give me a rough rebuild estimate?

The rebuild will end up costing about double what you first estimate... Also your mate who builds "race v8s" probably won't build you the best RB as they are not similar in many way and you may end up with just another broken motor.

[s213b]

I see where ur coming from, but He's not building me a 9 second 9000 rpm 500kw drag car.

He's taking apart my motor, putting in new bearings, and n1 pump, no custom work,, no stroking etc etc, he may not be a skyline builder but I'm not after amazing results. If he has any questions it's not hard to ring up an rb builder and ask about clearances etc. I'm after a fresh, new, reliable, cheap engine, if it comes back driving the same as it was before it went I'd be happy as Larry.

25 would be great but I've been f**ked over with second hand motors before, and don't really like the idea of having two f**ked engines in 6 mOnths time. I have however got quotes on low km rb25 stagea neo's (2500 with turbo, loom, ecu) but there's still more parts I'd need for the conversion. It'd end up being just shy of 4k, so leaves the rebuild being the cheaper, simpler (if it's just a case of acl bearings, light machine/ polish + n1 pump)

I'll do more research and keep posting, when I've decided which way I'll go I'll do a build thread.

[Dobz]

Wait until you get the engine apart because you could find more damage than what you expect. Because you kept driving it when the oil light came on there could be an instance where some small bits of crap found their way to a bearing journal and done some damage.

[s213b]

Yeh true, when they take the 20 out I'll get them to have a look and Suss the damage, if it'll be cheaper to rebuild, I will, if a new motor will be cheaper il do that.

[N1 RB26]

also check your crank i did a bearing in my 20 and kept driving cause i had to get home and was in the middle of no where to expensive for a tow especially at 11pm and when i pulled it apart it had spat little pieces of bearing everywhere and had a 20thou bend in the crank check out spool imports website this is a rebuild kit for a 20....personally i wouldn't bother forging a 20 there generally good for around 280kw standard internals just do what you said stick a set of bearings and pump in it TD06 and a good tune and it will be plenty reliable providing you treat it well

This Rebuild Kit includes the following quality parts:

• SPOOL Forged H Beam Conrods
• CP or Ross Forged Pistons (Rings, Pins and Locks Included)
• Cometic MLS Head Gasket
• ACL Race Series Main Bearings - STD & 0.25mm
• ACL Race Series Big End Bearings - STD & 0.25mm

With Ross Pistons - $1990

With CP Pistons - $2090