Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

Let me introduce myself. My name is Brett and I have just become the proud owner of a '98 R34 Skyline. As this is my first Skyline (or for that fact my first Nissan), I have very little knowledge about Nissan technologies, so I need your help.

Can someone tell me the difference between the RB25DE and the RB25DET engine (besides the obvious). I am looking to turbocharge the NEO 6 and was wondering whether parts of the DET would bolt onto the DE.

Also, has anyone turbocharged their R34. I would like to get as much information as I could regarding the matter (prices, parts, problems etc).

Thanks in advance

Brett

  • Replies 48
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

or alternativly, you could just purchase a bolt on turbo, but along with that theres alot of associated bits and pieces you need to get, and you'll prob find that it would end up being a more stressful and expensive procedure than just getting another r34 with a turbo.

It has a lot to do with A) how much will you lose on your car if you sell it B) The car you've got is a good example...why sell it to buy a questionable GT-t C) are you crazy enough to do it :P and D) do you like seeing people question the lack of factory gauges and say "but I can hear a turbo"

Seriously though...if you check the specs on the RB25DE Neo compared to the RB25DET Neo...you won't find much that the 2 don't share, even cams are almost the same unit 2ms exhaust duration seperate them both!

The R33 RB25DE and RB25DET are a whole new ballgame...different parts completely.

I found the whole process to be worth it in my eyes :D Luckily I've done all the hard work...and found out the hard way what needs to be done...so I can make it a fairly easy process if you decide to do it.

Dan

  • 1 month later...

yes but you wont be able to go much higher due to compression etc...

im my eyes it owuld be better overall to get a new rb25det and use that instead of adding on bits to your stock rb25de and using that. give your brakes, ecu etc will be non turbo based

  • 5 weeks later...

Some help here would be good. I have an R32 GTS4. It has an RB20DET at the moment wiha VG30 roller turbo. I want to have a 2.5L though, if the $ work out.

I can only choose from two types of engines due to my car being 4WD. a. RB20DE form an R33 GTS4 ($1200) or an RB25DET from a Stagea ($2,800). Obviously the first looks better to me because of the price, but if it's a shit engine it won't be worth it.

Can anyone tell me the differnce in these two engines. Brakes etc are not a problem as I already have an brake upgrade (R32 GTR).

I undertsand that the injectors are different 270 vs. 370. What are the other differences?

There is word that the R32/33 RB25DE valve springs are slightly softer than the RB20/25 springs.

Apparently this causes valve bounce over 15psi which generally occures at 6500rpm.

17psi valve bounce begins to occur around 5500rpm.

The higher the boost the earlier the valve bounce.

This causes the lifters to pump up which then makes the car idle lumpy until the lifters bleed back down.

I am unsure if this is a rare occurance where the valve springs have started to go soft or another issue regarding the valve spring tension when the valve is fully closed.

I have also heard a roumer that some stocker CA18DET's running high boost have this issue also. Fitting heavier valve springs fix's the problem. Any 1 care to confirm that for me?

I will find out with my RB25DE head soon as it uses the stock valve springs BUT the head has been rebuilt and all tensions checked etc..

Another bloke Darren also bought the same head as I & had his head rebuilt at the same place/time as I. He had to have his valves shimmed due to the valve spring tension not being great enough when the valves are closed. Mine were fine. I'm not sure 100% the exact terminology so don get picky on me. :D

As I said i'm not 100% as i've onyl heard of a few people having this problem.

Any one else care to share any problems they have had with the 'possibility' of the NA valve springs being softer than the T springs?

Maybe you could buy a whole engine with ecu and everything. Take the head off the one you have and put in a new head gasket to lower the compression then add all the bits from the other engine. After this you can sell the 2nd engine as is to someone else who has blown theirs up and doesn't need all the bits and pieces that you have pilfered.

Doing it from scratch the way you are gives you the chance to go straight to after market computer, exhaust, bigger injectors and fuel pump maybe, etc.

Hi guys, been following this thread (and 666dan's conversion) with much interests as I am trying to find a 4 door R34 as well.

Currently I am trying to choose between a RB25DET neo and a RB25DE neo. The non-turboed car is newer (by a year), comes with tiptronic controls and costs substantially less than the turboed car. However, since ultimately I am interested in getting a truboed car, a turbo conversion on the RB25DE is guaranteed should I choose to purchase it.

666DAN's comment on the NEO engines nearly having the same internals had me very excited. The reason being I currently have in possession all the neccesary components for turbo charging the car (intercooler, turbo, exhaust manifold) and it would work out cheaper for me to turbo charge the N/A car than to purchase the RB25DET car.

I have found the following information on the two engines while researching:

RB25DET NEO (GTT)

24-valve turbo EFI straight six

Capacity 2498

Bore x Stroke 86.0x71.7

Compression 9.0:1

Power 207kW @ 6400rpm

Torque 343Nm @ 3200rpm

(auto 333Nm)

Kerb Weight 1410kg (1440kg auto)

0-100 in 6.0 sec flat

0-400m in 14.2

(tested by reviewer)

RB25DE NEO (GT25)

24 valve EFI straight six

Capacity 2498

Bore x Stroke 86.0x71.7

Compression 10.0:1

Power 147kW @ 6000rpm

Torque 255Nm@ 4000rpm

Kerb Weight not stated

0-100 in 8.7 sec

0-400m covered in 16.3

Can someone clarify just exactly how "nearly the same" are the two engine internals? From the bore x stroke and the compression ratios its clear that the pistons between the two engines are not of the same size if both engine blocks are the same.

Are the engine block the same?

What about the crank, conrod (length and strength) and cams?

I'd say it the head design influencing the compression...as with the RB20DE Neo it's called a lean burn head, just an assumption there :)

Specs for most of the parts would be available in the Nissan parts CD...which has been mentioned for sale but no-one followed through on it.

There has been some info floating around, the NEOs are meant to have solid lifters...unlike the previous counterparts and actually have oil squirters in ALL models. I've been running the turbo on my engine now for 20,000k's with no related problems (the coil packs were just shite!) My engine has now done a total of 130,000ks and I'm confident of it making 200,000...we'll see cause I'm keeping her until she rusts away...or the trade-in price on a 350Z isn't too bad :D

I'm very keen to get to a dyno if anyone knows of any dyno days in the near future :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So, version 4 intake is on its way I was looking at these a while ago but at around $200 or more it was a little pricey for something that might not work, but, I had it in my watch list, but, I got a message saying it was on special, and I had a code thingie to use, it eventually came in at $120 delivered, so BAM, BUY NOW.....LOL I'll need to have a look when it arrives but I feel it will "look" better than what I currently have, as it comes with a PCV fitting, so I will be able to get rid of the alloy pipe that goes to the throttle body with the PCV fitting  Well, that's what the voices in my head are telling me  Oh, and this happened today Yeap, it was a Trojan, and it was cheap, so I headed back to the hardware store and actually spent a little bit more on a heavy duty,  one that was actually recommended by a plumber mate, a Cyclone one with a fibreglass handle that is actually rated for clay The broken shovel will eventually be "modified" into a short handle shovel
    • When you pulled it off, there is no signs of blown head gasket? Is it possible you have some other issues going on? Possible cracked blocked? Or do you think it's straight up lifting the head? Did you check what the head was torqued to before pulling it down (To see if possibly they're stretching, or starting to break threads out etc)?
    • Seems like a decent result for a modded JZX110. They are bulky in comparison to the 100 and 90 models (which I'd prefer myself) but they are getting very few and far between here in JP these days. Thanks for the detailed review and the import process into the UK. I also have a car which I'm hoping to export from Japan at some stage so it's good to know if someone from the UK was interested in it. By the way the corrosion underneath is par for the course for cars which were located in/near the mountains or along the Japan sea coastline. They get huge amounts of snow every winter and the sodium chloride is used on the roads. Many cars have some kind of rubber like treatment underneath but they tend to limit it to the wheel arches underbody and fuel tank. Suspension arms and sub-frames will have similar corrosion to your JZX110 which is a common sight. See it all the time and car dealers here generally don't even mention it unless asked.
    • If the sound goes away when you clutch in, the 1.5/2 way diffs are just shit, and you are a normal person. The diff is likely "fine" but driving at anything under 30kmh is a violent horrible experience. It would be exaggerated with solid diff bushings and subframe bushings if you have those.
×
×
  • Create New...