Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

If you can put a LS1 in to a skyline im shore a XR6T can go in with time and money.

ls1 would go in easier than a ford straight 6 (v8 is shorter and lower and lighter). as i said in the other thread the OP started asking this, issue would be with the height of the motor and the weight (they are an iron block, not alloy, although the head is alloy), and possibly the length. but if it's a track car then you can easily overcome the size issues with a bit of creative panel beating, but it may still handle like a bucket of crap because of the weight.

RB26 weighs in at around 180kgs bare, the Barra engine around 175kgs bare.

Ancillaries would be similar weight.

RBs are iron block, so that's a moot point.

Block height difference might be a bit, but even if it's 40mm, that' be pretty easy to overcome with engine mounts and/or a bulge in the bonnet.

I reckon a 4Lt in a 32 would be a f**king weapon.

It's not a bad fit.

Height is a slight issue but nothing major, if using an FG rear sump engine it will require modifications.

I've got one in an r32 gtst and an r34 GTT.

Also developing a 4 bolt main sump/diff for an awd conversion.

We figured it'd be a wanted component.

Weve been playing with FG and BF engines for a while now. Have a dry dumped FG engine going into an r34 and also another BA engine going into an r32 GTsT for track school shortly.

The awd sump is a work in progress but very possible

I'll use a WRX gearbox and hope for the best..........

That's sarcastic by the way....

I LOLed.

This is what happened the last time someone tried to run 1000nm of twist through a WRX box.

aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa.jpg

I'll use a WRX gearbox and hope for the best..........

That's sarcastic by the way....

I was thinking about buying one of these set ups from you, but seeing as my honest questions get bullshit answers I won't bother

Well you have to admit it was a kinda of obvious question, wasn't it??

My reply wasn't intended to offend.

It has to retain a GTR gearbox.

As for how I'll make it work properly, that's what I do for a living, it's all custom fabrication.

Well you have to admit it was a kinda of obvious question, wasn't it??

My reply wasn't intended to offend.

It has to retain a GTR gearbox.

As for how I'll make it work properly, that's what I do for a living, it's all custom fabrication.

I was thinking about buying one of these set ups from you, but seeing as my honest questions get bullshit answers I won't bother

Jeez, talk about humour fail.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
×
×
  • Create New...