Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all, sold all my toys and now want to do somthing eles.

Ive had the idea of a 34r for a while (causing me to sell all my bitts) and have now got tge following for the gtr

Hks cams

Os giken cam wheels

Hks type s coilovers

Volk work 19x10.5 +12 ce28n wheels

Apexi weldina cat back

Midori front pipe (with decat)

Apexi power fc with boost cobtroller

Would also do,

Injectors (550cc)

Fuel pump

Thats bout it oerformance wise...

But ive now liked the idea of an audi s3,

Id like to move to melbourne by the end of the year,

How r the police over there?

Both cars will be financed, and both will be about low 50s to get on the road.

Im very sus a 34r will be worth more than low 30s in 4 yrs time. (actual sale price!!)

The audi is good coz its just a step away from the bullshit of cars! And more melbourne!

Ive never driven either but thr dsg box and qauttro sounds very fast!

If i were to go gtr id get a cheap run around too...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/375505-r34-gtr-or-audi-s3/
Share on other sites

S3 can be quick, but come on is it really on par with a GTR :P

The only real benefit I can see is less attention from the police and perhaps insurance, but if you're going to get a bunky for daily use then no problems there.

the gtr is nice and sexy and will be a head turner, but remember maintenance will be more than the s3, also the s3 will be cheaper to insure in most places. s3 is more comfy, nicer ride, better handling, better fuel consumption. performance wise it ist that much slower than a gtr, 0.5 seconds to 100 isnt noticeable.

also the s3 is vastly different to a golf, in every aspect, engine, gearbox etc. has heaps of tuning potential but will cost roughly as much to tune as a GTR.

in the end it comes down to personal preference. the s3 can be had in 3 or 5 door. so if you have a family, its much more easier to go audi.

also consider police attention, GTR is pretty bad, while the s3 is seen more as normal car.

but if your going loosely on looks, GTR will win hands down

i iunderstand that, but the gtr is not going to be able to be slapped into a street carpark, left alone, driven, comfortablty easy etc etc... and also vic is very flat unless you go way way out of the city so not alot of driving to be had, where as my adelaide house is litteraly 50m inside the cival side of the hills.

i iunderstand that, but the gtr is not going to be able to be slapped into a street carpark, left alone, driven, comfortablty easy etc etc... and also vic is very flat unless you go way way out of the city so not alot of driving to be had, where as my adelaide house is litteraly 50m inside the cival side of the hills.

Get a silver one then... >_<

oh and don't wash it

Edited by 10 4

I vote for the GT-R (whilst owning a 530i BMW too) and get a $2K Corolla to run up the Kms.

'Tis better to get the wet weather dirt on your daily as well.

Really, it'd be different if you were comparing the GT-R with an RS.

I was tossing up between Evo 8MR/9 or R34 GTR for a while after selling my R32. Did a lot of research online, asked for people's opinions etc.

After ONE drive in both, my mind was made up :)

My advice would be to go out and do some test driving. If you have your finances sorted and are serious about buying one, don't be shy to take them for a drive!

I just bought some Nismo skirts and pods for my new car. Guess which one I chose. action-smiley-069.gif

dsg and quattro does not sound fast it sounds expencive if u buy the audi leave it stock or have deep pockets

wheres you know what the gtr is capable of. Drive both i already know what u will choose once you own a jap car you will never turn to the dark side

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I had 3 counts over the last couple of weeks once where i got stranded at a jdm paint yard booking in some work. 2nd time was moving the car into the drive way for the inspection and the 3rd was during the inspection for the co2 leak test. Fix: 1st, car off for a hour and half disconnected battery 10mins 4th try car started 2nd, 5th try started 3rd, countless time starting disconnected battery dude was under the hood listening to the starting sequence fuel pump ect.   
    • This. As for your options - I suggest remote mounting the Nissan sensor further away on a length of steel tube. That tube to have a loop in it to handle vibration, etc etc. You will need to either put a tee and a bleed fitting near the sensor, or crack the fitting at the sensor to bleed it full of oil when you first set it up, otherwise you won't get the line filled. But this is a small problem. Just needs enough access to get it done.
    • The time is always correct. Only the date is wrong. It currently thinks it is January 19. Tomorrow it will say it is January 20. The date and time are ( should be ! ) retrieved from the GPS navigation system.
    • Buy yourself a set of easy outs. See if they will get a good bite in and unthread it.   Very very lucky the whole sender didn't let go while on the track and cost you a motor!
    • Well GTSBoy, prepare yourself further. I did a track day with 1/2 a day prep on Friday, inpromptu. The good news is that I got home, and didn't drive the car into a wall. Everything seemed mostly okay. The car was even a little faster than it was last time. I also got to get some good datalog data too. I also noticed a tiny bit of knock which was (luckily?) recorded. All I know is the knock sensors got recalibrated.... and are notorious for false knock. So I don't know if they are too sensitive, not sensitive enough... or some other third option. But I reduced timing anyway. It wasn't every pull through the session either. Think along the lines of -1 degree of timing for say, three instances while at the top of 4th in a 20 minute all-hot-lap session. Unfortunately at the end of session 2... I noticed a little oil. I borrowed some jack stands and a jack and took a look under there, but as is often the case, messing around with it kinda half cleaned it up, it was not conclusive where it was coming from. I decided to give it another go and see how it was. The amount of oil was maybe one/two small drops. I did another 20 minute session and car went well, and I was just starting to get into it and not be terrified of driving on track. I pulled over and checked in the pits and saw this: This is where I called it, packed up and went home as I live ~20 min from the track with a VERY VERY CLOSE EYE on Oil Pressure on the way home. The volume wasn't much but you never know. I checked it today when I had my own space/tools/time to find out what was going on, wanted to clean it up, run the car and see if any of the fittings from around the oil filter were causing it. I have like.. 5 fittings there, so I suspected one was (hopefully?) the culprit. It became immediately apparent as soon as I looked around more closely. 795d266d-a034-4b8c-89c9-d83860f5d00a.mp4       This is the R34 GTT oil sender connected via an adapter to an oil cooler block I have installed which runs AN lines to my cooler (and back). There's also an oil temp sensor on top.  Just after that video, I attempted to unthread the sensor to see if it's loose/worn and it disintegrated in my hand. So yes. I am glad I noticed that oil because it would appear that complete and utter catastrophic engine failure was about 1 second of engine runtime away. I did try to drill the fitting out, and only succeeded in drilling the middle hole much larger and now there's a... smooth hole in there with what looks like a damn sleeve still incredibly tight in there. Not really sure how to proceed from here. My options: 1) Find someone who can remove the stuck fitting, and use a steel adapter so it won't fatigue? (Female BSPT for the R34 sender to 1/8NPT male - HARD to find). IF it isn't possible to remove - Buy a new block ($320) and have someone tap a new 1/8NPT in the top of it ($????) and hope the steel adapter works better. 2) Buy a new block and give up on the OEM pressure sender for the dash entirely, and use the supplied 1/8 NPT for the oil temp sender. Having the oil pressure read 0 in the dash with the warning lamp will give me a lot of anxiety driving around. I do have the actual GM sensor/sender working, but it needs OBD2 as a gauge. If I'm datalogging I don't actually have a readout of what the gauge is currently displaying. 3) Other? Find a new location for the OEM sender? Though I don't know of anywhere that will work. I also don't know if a steel adapter is actually functionally smart here. It's clearly leveraged itself through vibration of the motor and snapped in half. This doesn't seem like a setup a smart person would replicate given the weight of the OEM sender. Still pretty happy being lucky for once and seeing this at the absolute last moment before bye bye motor in a big way, even if an adapter is apparently 6 weeks+ delivery and I have no way to free the current stuck/potentially destroyed threads in the current oil block.
×
×
  • Create New...