Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

That's what people need to realise.

You are limited by valve surface area. I'd say 1400hp out of 1.5L is about the limit. Although one big advance over the past 15 years has been in metallurgy which has allowed bigger bores and smaller strokes. Look at slipper pistons, especially as now used in motorbikes. That said, I'd say efficiency rather than outright power is where the big advances have lead us.

It is the limit WITHIN FIA regulations. Remember there are huge amounts of metals and compounds that are banned for use in engines and racing in general due to many reasons. Also adaptive engine systems have been banned for years, like adjustable intakes. Whilst there is little incentive, I would expect it to be possible to get more then the 1hp per cc.

There is a limit on the fuel and overall basic design of a 4 stroke engine but don't jump to conclusions about its limits so soon.

The current problem is the "green movement". Especially F1 has been moving to try and promote this green energy/green image crap which is taking money away from engine development and putting it towards useless stuff like kers.

(important for society but racing should focus on mechanical engines only)

If they ignored such things and removed a lot of the restrictions on engines and fuels, you could expect to see some amazing engine with even more insane power levels.

Remember 24 years since turbo F1 cars. That is a long time. Even if development has been focused in other areas.

  • Replies 44
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Good point. But i think the most developement in engines (especially F1) has been around reliability. They have already proved you can get stupid power out of small capacity engines. But gone are the good old days of engines exploding regularly in an F1 race. Even in the last 5 years. You hardly ever see it any more.

It's been about cost and safety too. They don't want insanely powerful cars as in the turbo era (except more so), and they don't want it to be too expensive so the wealthiest teams dominate.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah well per the video it took 15s for the stock unit to start up....even if I give it a few seconds discount for starting that is at least 12 sec before you get a reverse camera if you are trying to leave a park.  The android unit is way faster, but 2016 for the stock unit is a long time ago in consumer electronics
    • Yea that’s why I said ima test them with multimeter and see the reads.
    • Only at idle. Isn’t a problem when rev it seems.
    • @Haggerty This seems silly to ask, but are you confident in your ability to tune the Haltech?  
    • Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
×
×
  • Create New...