Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ok i have a 89 gts4 rb20det awd with gtr g/box & diff. i want to convert it to a rwd. i have the switch but i dont like the extra weight from the front diff & transfer.

so can i get a rwd sump and bolt that to my rb20. then drop the transfer and front shaft and get a rear drivershaft made up to fit, or do i need a rwd engine, box and diff?

also how much work is needed to fit a rb25 into the r32?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/375628-converting-awd-to-rwd/
Share on other sites

By the way. I'm putting a 25DETNeo into my R32 and it is costing me thousands. The motor and gearbox set you back ~$3k, then there's all the sensible work to do (like timing belts, coolant hoses, and so on) and wiring changes and air con hose changes and power steering hose changes and tailshaft surgery. It all adds up, even if you do a lot of it yourself - you still need to buy or otherwise obtain a bunch of bits and pieces.

cheers

ok i have a 89 gts4 rb20det awd with gtr g/box & diff. i want to convert it to a rwd. i have the switch but i dont like the extra weight from the front diff & transfer.

so can i get a rwd sump and bolt that to my rb20. then drop the transfer and front shaft and get a rear drivershaft made up to fit, or do i need a rwd engine, box and diff?

also how much work is needed to fit a rb25 into the r32?

No, the block is a different shape because of the diff/sump, you will need a RWD block. Its going to be better and cheaper for you to buy a RB25.

block is not different. yes you can fit a RWD sump.

you can buy a RWD RB20 box and then RWD RB20 tailshaft and that should all fit fine. otherwise you can leave the transfer case there but cut the side off it and just keep your standard tailshaft (but it means sacrificing your transfer case and a bit of extra weight).

if you go this way, sell me your front GTS4 diff/pinion. I need a spare. :)

you cannot just remove the transfer case as the output from the gearbox is made to go into the transfer not to bolt onto a shaft. so that's why you need to keep the transfer but with the front drive bit cut off and the guts out of it. or just get a RWD box (it has the right output shaft).

Don't forget that if you don't have a front diff, then you don't have front driveshafts. If you don't have front driveshafts, you don't have axles for the front wheels / hubs.

Sell the GTS4, buy a GTSt if you only want RWD. Don't go destroying a perfectly good car because you made the wrong choice of car in the first place.

block is not different. yes you can fit a RWD sump.

you can buy a RWD RB20 box and then RWD RB20 tailshaft and that should all fit fine. otherwise you can leave the transfer case there but cut the side off it and just keep your standard tailshaft (but it means sacrificing your transfer case and a bit of extra weight).

if you go this way, sell me your front GTS4 diff/pinion. I need a spare. :)

you cannot just remove the transfer case as the output from the gearbox is made to go into the transfer not to bolt onto a shaft. so that's why you need to keep the transfer but with the front drive bit cut off and the guts out of it. or just get a RWD box (it has the right output shaft).

Is there a difference in the design of the r32 and r33/r34 blocks? I know i could not align my 4WD sump onto a near new r33 RWD block as they were a different shape to the 4WD block. When i rebuilt my engine i had to bore the old block out 40 thou to compensate, ended up better anyway.

EDIT: maahhh bad O.P., i thought you were wanting to keep it 4WD =/

Edited by central coast person

yeah i also realised the front cv's/axles after i posted. im not going to bother with changing it, car is quite quick for a stocker just going to keep working on it. ive got a 5 puk exedy and rear main just need the flywheel. then fmic, nistune, and carbon fibre boot then upgrade turbo and exhaust. :D thinking a hks 2530 and 5zigen 3' exhaust with no cannon.

Edited by drop2nd
  • 2 weeks later...

I've just converted my R32 GTS4 to RWD, not because I wanted to tho... I stacked my GTSt and bought a GTS4 to replace it, I could only find an auto one tho.

The engine became smokey shortly after buying it so I swapped in the engine out of the GTSt into it with a R33 GTR gearbox to convert it to manual.

Cos the blocks are different and it's my daily driver I didn't have time to adapt the 4WD sump on the GTSt engine.

The RWD engine bolts up to the 4WD box no worries, and I just disassembled the front CVs and fitted the stub axles in the hubs.

If you're worried about the extra weight of the transfer case I saw a gutted transfer case on ebay earlier today.

Good advantage of keeping the 4WD box is its much stronger and half the price to replace as an r33 gtst box.

Comparing the GTS4 to the GTSt, there is a fair bit more beef in the front and rear K frames, and they hang lower in the GTS4.

Convert or replace, its prob as much trouble either way?

just going to keep the gts4, possibly getting a rb25neo awd motor from a stag :D if not just going to trick it out with the garret version of the 2530, 6boost manifold, 5zigen 3' zorst, return flow fmic, nistune and a tune, c/f boot and some drifteks. meanwhile get a s13 and start building a drift machine.

anyone else with soem conversion stories?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I guess when I say it's a POS I mean.. the solution and the stuff has the capacity for maybe... 1 spot. You know, as a spot cleaner. What I really *want* is the ability to do an entire car, all upholstery, all carpet, mats, all seats, door card inserts, A pillars, roof liners, etc. In one go. I get lured by all the jank that comes out and think "I'd like to be able to clean to that degree"
    • I've got one (not the car one, the domestic spot cleaner one, which is basically the same jobbie) and have driven it hard for hours and hours at a time. Grimy sofas, 6' floor rugs, etc. I'd blame your specific example rather than the whole category. I haven't used mine in the car, because.... you know, it's my car. So there is no-one else's ball sweat in the driver's seat, there's no kid food/drink spills or hand prints inside because they've never had an opportunity to put them there. You know, basic, standard Skyline rules.
    • I normally run with I think a 10mm, and definitely use the second handle you can add to a drill. They hurt when they bins up!   For the crush tube, once all subframe is clear, I'd try some stilsons and see if I can get it to start to twist.
    • Probably because they couldn't, because the use of the variable resistor to create a "signal" in the ECU is managed by the ECU's circuitry. The only way that VDO could do it would be if they made a "smart" sensor that directly created the 0-5V signal itself. And that takes us back to the beginning. Well, in that case, you could do the crude digital (ie, binary, on or off) input that I mentioned before, to at least put a marker on the trace. If you pressed the button only at a series of known integer temperatures, say every 2°C from the start of your range of interest up to whatever you can manage, and you know what temperature the first press was at, then you'd have the voltage marked for all of those temperatures. And you can have more than one shot at it too. You can set the car up to get the oil hot (bypass oil coolers, mask off the air flow to oil coolers, and/or the radiator, to get the whole engine a bit hotter, then give it a bit of curry to get some measurements up near the top of the range.   On the subject of the formula for the data you provided, I did something different to Matt's approach, and got a slightly different linear formula, being Temp = -22.45*V + 118.32. Just a curve fit from Excel using all the points, instead of just throwing it through 2 points. A little more accurate, but not drastically different. Rsquared is only 0.9955 though, which is good but not great. If you could use higher order polynomials in the thingo, then a quadratic fit gives an excellent Rsquared of 0.9994. Temp = 2.1059*V^2 - 34.13*V + 133.27. The funny thing is, though, that I'd probably trust the linear fit more for extrapolation beyond the provided data. The quadratic might get a bit squirrely. Hang on, I'll use the formulae to extend the plots.... It's really big so you can see all the lines. I might have to say that I think I really still prefer the quadratic fit. It looks like the linear fit overstates the temperature in the middle of the input range, and would pretty solidly understate what the likely shape of the real curve would say at both ends.
    • I got a hand held bisssel one and it's a piece of shit. Doesn't work for more than about 5 seconds. So much so that I nearly refuse to believe any wet dry vac actually works or has enough suction to clean the carpet of a car. I'm discouraged as all the good ones are $300+ for an unknown result. I saw MCM did a Ryobi video where they use this thing: https://www.ryobi.com.au/products/stick-vacuum-cleaners/18v-one-hptm-brushless-spot-cleaner-tool-only Anyone have any experience actually using a tool like this when not paid to showcase it?
×
×
  • Create New...