Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

What makes 180rwhp? My stock turbo skyline was making 193rwkw on 12psi and is a very quick car. How much does the M3 weigh? It is a fairly big car. Both my skylines produced more torque also. In that graph that V8 is making 259ft pounds of torque. My old skyline made close to 320ft pounds and the current one is pushing more than 500ft pounds. I'm sitting on about 700nm and that is out of a small 2.5L 1.3 ton car. And I don't just peak that torque

Stock R33 GTSTs make around 180rwhp. They run 7psi, smic etc.

M3 E36 Evo is 1500kg. R33 GTSTs are 1390kg, so yeah, 110kg less.

E92 M3 is 1620kg.

700nm of torque? lol. Merc C63 AMG BLACK has 630NM.

Edited by 10 4
  • Replies 71
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Yeah. Dyno torque readouts, unless setup properly, are usually completely worthless since the figures are way out.

exactly. i've seen plenty of dyno readouts from small cars that are higher than the quoted figures for v8's and things like the xr6t. there's no way a 2.5L turbo 6 making under 200rwkw is making 30% more torque than a 4.0L turbo 6 that makes 270kw at the fly.

a rb25 making around 200kw would probably be making no more than 400nm at a guess, probably less though.

Yeah you aren't making 700nm of torque.

I exaggerated a little, its closer to 670nm.

What good is a dyno if it can't read proper figures? No one can tell me there is going to be a massive difference from the readout to an actual engine figure. If this is the case, why is the kw or hp anything to go by?. It was on dyno with two people in the car and about 50 - 60kg of led in the boot, two straps holding it underneath and still we were losing traction on the dyno. Tao made close to 600nm on with the same turbo in his car on a hub dyno.

I'm making about 300rwkw.

Edited by SargeRX8

It’s because the dyno operator rarely dials in the gear ratio/final drive/wheel diameter etc, I've had the same argument with actual tuners before, yarning about excessive torque figures.

But if you get the RPM at which you make the peak torque figure and get the power figure at that point (using the graph) then use the equation [Torque (N.m) = 9.5488 x Power (kW) / Speed (RPM)] that will give you your actual torque figure at the wheels.

Or just use this calculator;

http://wentec.com/unipower/calculators/power_torque.asp

530nm according to that calculator. According to my dyno sheet my tractive force is 1340 lb or something at 132mph.

And just because that AMG has that much torque doesn't mean shit. There are a bucket loads of cars which will deal out more power than that mercedes for no where near the price they ask for that car. What is your point? My brothers rotor makes close to 900rwhp cost 30k. You can get a 2jz spend some money on it and get massive power and torque. Doesn't mean shit when you point out the amg.

If the above calculator is right then cool, my car is only down 100nm of torque and doesn't have a engine which probably weighs more than my car.

i believe they are abit of a boat, but in all honesty, change suspension and do ur part in getting it stiffer then that will be gone. then powerrrrr it ;)

As for the camry yeah dw about what he said, u like ur car then dont worry about what people say

However, Aurions is the new model up from the avalon, and is completly different to the camry in power, looks sorta similar, dont misjudge who to run haha, cus aurions are machines

and doesn't have a engine which probably weighs more than my car.

LOL... WAT?

If the engine gets heavier, the car gets heavier... Secondly, the RB engines are f**kING HEAVY!!! My engine that is more then twice the size of the RB25 is around 50KG lighter...

Bloody cast iron crap.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
    • There is a really fun solution to this problem, buy a Haltech (or ECU of your choice) and put the MAF in the bin.  I'm assuming your going to want more power in future, so you'll need to get the ECU at some stage. I'd put the new MAF money towards the new ECU. 
×
×
  • Create New...