Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys

Quick question, just received my overhaul kit from my mechanic on the list we made we settled on 1.8mm gasket i was told i would need it to push alot of boost into the engine so i agreed since im going for decent power i would need it!

now i got the kit and i noticed the head gasket it 1.5 mm i questioned him about it... he said ( sorry they dont have 1.8mm i talked to my tuner he said its good not to worry)

im asking here coz i know hes full of shit lol standard being 1.2mm is 1.5 big enough to get me 350awkw with good boost or do i need the 1.8 mm ? btw its a Series 3 R33 GTR

cheers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/375828-tomei-head-gasket/
Share on other sites

20thou oversized cp pistons eagle rods full tomei gasket kit inc sump baffel, greddy oil pump tomei restrictor , havent got harmonic yet but properly ati ....N1 waterpump.... pritty much good bottom end...top end hasent been decided yet but yeh -5's im happy with so far might change my mind still doing research on what turbos... on and id2000s with a good pump setup also

havent decided mate...but not going ported or anything like that just standard valves just chuking in some cams doing a valve grind n so on... simple shit really

Look all i want to know is if i should sell the 1.5 n get the 1.8 is it worth it so cbf having a mass convo about it..

Well you are increasing the combution chamber capacity when you go a thicker headgasket (unless you have custom pistons that protrude above the deck anymore then normal), which means a lower static compression ratio which means less power in NA form or off boost form. Thats what makes the engine doughier until you start jamming boost in there.

honestly you should be thankful you couldn't get the 1.8mm. it's just not needed and isn't going to make your engine seal any better. as R33 said all it does is increase chamber volume which reduces your compression ratio which means less power/response off boost. you would only need a 1.8mm if you wanted to perhaps run like 40spi or if you had custom pistons that needed that extra bit of clearance.

a 1.2mm would have been fine but since you have the 1.5mm now by all means just use that.

Headgasket size needs to be decided once everything else is taken into account as r33_racer said.

Depends on the comp ratio the motor is being build too which included the bottom and top ends to "work" together.

You are sorta going it a bit backwards if you don't know whats being done with the head yet.

Even with a 1.8mm you won't be running 28psi on PULP through -5s for a start with a basic head. All for 350rwkw is odd too as you could do that on 18psi with a stock motor :ermm:

I'd be a little concerned about the build with the 'advice' being given out thus far.

Im building it myself...im an apprentice mech... dont know to much about the smaller details but i do a bit of reconditioning eg head work and bottom end stuff at work so i have a decent idea....

alot of people are scared but look im gona cut my teeth on these engines i love them to death and their all i think about honestly even my misses craks the shits...i bought my manuals from jpnz chassis and engine manuals im gona do alot of reading and build it so dont mention comp ratios yadda yadda im gona get the block honed machined if it needs and balanced and then ima wet and dry it a bit slap the gasket on strip the head clean it up put new seals thu it valve grind so on and slap that on...... simple question was if the 1.5 was ok to use to push high boost into i was just a little curious...

i dont feel like im going bakwards ? the standard head flows fine i think? with a set of cams (custom made not off the shelf) and some gears the right tuner should get me some good results dont u think ?

ill be asking alot more questions so i might make a thred about my build in the overhaul section so i can ask people there aswell

thanks for the help guys :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So.... the K&N air box thingo was too big, ended up gifting it to a mate, well, by gifting it he actually supplied food and beer at the pub,  which was nice, as it will not sit on a shelf in the garage for the next 10 years I did trim up some of the existing stuff to neaten it all up and gave it some wrinkle paint, unfortunately it currently has a used and abused mish mash of different types of hose clamps, 4 big fat T bolt type (shit), and a few normal clamps of vairing sizes and brands, but..... only until the 6 constant tension black worm clamps that I ordered from EFI solutions turn up next week Currently the current hose clamps are triggering me hard, LOL Is this the final version, probably not, I really want just 2 silicone pieces, a straight bit of silicone from the filter to the MAF is easy and will happen as soon as I head into Just Jap tomorrow, the problematic part is a 30° silicone bend from the MAF to the TB that I can connect the engine breather from the head, I found that there are bulk head fittings for boat bilge pumps that should work, but until I can get a 30° silicone bend the alloy pipe, and the 11ty thousand hose clamps, are there for the foreseeable future 4 hose clamps are golden, 6 are grudgingly acceptable, the 8 currently holding it all together is just taking the piss    I've also ordered 60 more retaining wall blocks for the front yard, I mis-gonculated the height that was required to get above the base of the Photinia's (red robin's) that are the hedge behind the front fence, currently it is 2 blocks high, and about 1/2 a block short, so going 3 blocks high will be above the base of the red robin's, and allow some room for mulch
    • It is the stock air box with the panel filter. Everything else is stock except the exhaust at this point, as I also went back to the cleaned 270cc injectors. I will check the RPM when the IACV is unplugged and report back.
    • As MBS suggested if this is happening when the engine is cold you're going to want to remove the intake air regulator and verify resistance + that the shutter is physically opening and closing. At -20C should be fully open, 20C half open, over 60C fully closed. At 20C should be 70-80 ohms. For AAC valve testing using a Consult cable see if you can raise and lower the idle by commanding more or less AAC duty cycle. Hopefully it's pretty linear as well, shouldn't be like 30% AAC valve is barely idling and 40% is 1500 rpm.
    • Bloody apprentices! 🙄
    • Not sure yet.  Was considering speedtek because it was rated to 800hp, but when I did some research about him I don't think I will go for that🤣 So maybe giken gear set, but I'm afraid it won't be strong enough🙄
×
×
  • Create New...