Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well I tried to fiddle with my dads welder today. Its just a little stick welder, you connect the ground to the metal and the stick thing in the little claw thing. Anyway this is the first time Ive ever attempted to weld. I was just trying to get the arc going and create some spots then some beads. My spots came out alright and I managed to get one or two nice little beads but most of them came out like dick and I don't know why.

When I manage to get the arc going, it looks fine behind the welding mast, I can see the red glow of the metal and it looks like a nice bead has formed. I lift up the goggles and let the metal cool abit. I tap it with something to get the burnt flux stuff off only to see that there was no bead, just shitting little blobs. Ive attached some pix. You can kind of see where I tried to get a bead going but failed.

Is this something to do with my technique or something to do with the machine or settings? I'm using about 60amps maybe more, maybe less, I just tinker with it. The sticks I used were blue sticks about 2 - 3mm thick.That big fat weld I done looks great. It was the last one I tried before I gave up. After tapping it, most of it was that shit that flakes off and I was really disappointed. I'm out of sticks. What do you guys suggest to get and are they expensive?

post-68383-0-66279800-1314944443_thumb.jpg

post-68383-0-68701700-1314944532_thumb.jpg

post-68383-0-67727400-1314944545_thumb.jpg

Edited by SargeRX8
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/376016-advice-with-stick-welding/
Share on other sites

You need to slow down and weave, small left to right movements, might need to up your amps a bit, plenty of you tube clips and internet tutorials, lots of practice helps.

You don't need tafe, I'm a first class metal worker but I could weld well before going to tafe.

Practice and you will be fine, look for penetration and after welding something up try and break the weld.

Did I say practice.

agree with above, looks like you arent going slow enough, and perhaps arent moving the stick into the metal as it starts to disappear. By this I mean as your welding and the stick is melting into the job, it looks like your moving along the metal then moving back in with the stick, then moving along again, not doing both at the same time.

I dont stick weld often, I'd much perfer to Mig, but when I do stick I try to keep the motion as fluid as possible, slow and steady and all that stuff

I'm only a Diesel fitter but :) It all comes down to practice, I was fairly average at it when I started but just get some scrap metal and practice.

It looks like your going too fast and the amperage is to low for the material your using. Blue welding sticks could be the wrong type for the material aswell.

If you practice more you'll pick the hang of it up, all about practice

I think my first problem was amperage was too low. Sometimes I noticed the melted metal was not sticking to the surface I was welding onto, it was like rolling around, literally. My second problem is it was near IMPOSSIBLE to see through the lenses on my dads mask, I need to wait so my eyes can focus then touch a couple of times so I can see where I am. When I get the arc going I try my best to keep an even distance between the stick and the surface to maintain an arc but like you guys are saying, I must be moving too fast and not keeping a closer gap. Its just frustrating when I bump it and lose the arc and the stick sticks to the metal. Also annoying because I have to keep running inside and resetting out power board because it keeps going into protect lol. I think Ill connect it directly to the wall next time.

I have no idea what type of metal that was. I assume it was just steel, I don't think its galvanized or anything.

What kind of sticks should I get/be using if I am just working with steel? Could I use this welder to work with aluminium? I'm going to buy a few sticks and focus on controlling and maintaining the arc. After watching some videos on youtube, alot of guys say for practicing its best to start with straight line beads then move on to half moons and circles. My first few attempts just saw the stick sticking to metal causing black shit everywhere. Everytime I tried to weld two pieces together, the weld would stick to one side but not to the other one.

Yeah man more amps, and as the other guys said go a lttle slower and try and maintain a consistent short arc length. Get comfortable (lean against the bench)

and use 2 hands, 1 on the hand piece and grab the electrode about half way down with your other hand (if you got gloves on).

Yeah I always keep a set of gloves on. Went for another round today, more amps, didn't stick at all today. This photo was my first weld today! My uncle gave me some tips, I was doing little half moons in this weld. When using a new electrode, I am abit jittery because its long and wobbly but when it shortens up a little its great. Maybe I should hold the electrode but was scared of electrocution. Big amps here lol.

This is my picture now. Its not the straightest of beads as I am still abit shaky but I feel this is something I will be able to learn and do well for my self.

Any further tips or input would be great.

post-68383-0-66856100-1315026301_thumb.jpg

from left to right first half looks a tad to fast, 2nd half looks good. Don't worry about electrocution holding the stick, if you have wet gloves then definetly don't weld, change your gloves etc.

All it takes is practice man, and if your uncle is giving advice thats pretty good also

Few comments for the weld produced above.

Not enough amp

Make sure you drag the electrode not push

You have to pose on the sides to let weld metal fuse to the sides (see how you get slag inclusion on bottom toe of weld)

You need about 80% approach angle

Dont forget to push in electrode as you go

Make sure your lens is clean (specially front clear one)

Earth on - hand piece +

Use 2.5 mm rods low hydrogen 16TC are pretty good and not too expensive

Blue one are probably GP's and they are shit (there is 4 digit number on electrode if last two are 13,then they are GP's)

And as they said lot of practice,try using two plates and make t joint (fillet) and practice on that.

No you can not weld aluminum with stick only s/s and steel and i would recommend minimum thickness of material 2-3 mm otherwise you go TIG

Hope that helps :thumbsup:

Thanks for the advice man very much appreciated. I haven't checked the type of sticks but I do know they are blue satin sticks or something, similar ones are on eBay labeled as gp.

I follow most of the general and basic rules, my main concern is when I lose an arc or come to a stop, I am worried that there will be some slag left. My old man said that of I wanted to do pipe welding and what not(I am learning to so this so I can build my intake pipe btw) that I need to use a mig welder because starting and stopping the bead is not a good idea. Is this true? Most welds I see do look like one perfect bead all the way around but how the Fu Kai Klee do you get a single whole new around a pipe? Can I do it in halves? Tomorrow I'll cut up some steel and practice a t join. Then I'll hack up my old dump pipe and weld it back together.

to do pipe work your better of using TIG how ever i use MIG most of the time on all of my metal work and stick on site. try keep the rod 1-2mm from the job and as most of the others have said slow and steady and lots of practice, each welding TIG, MIG, STIK and oxy welding all have their own technique.

good luck with it all

go cut up a star picket or something thinner, try welding on that first.. at least you know it'll be unplated mild steel

at school we used to weld on 8-10mm plate and it definitely flowed pretty well so i'd question the material you're welding on

  • 2 weeks later...

2.5 rods need around 70 to 90 amps, 3.2's require 110 to 120 amps, get yourself a piece of scrap metal plate(20cmx20cm minimum) anything from 4 to 10mm will do and a small box of GP's and start off by just running bead on bead on bead untill you get the hang of it, its the easiest way to learn how to stick weld with the least amount of wasted material, once you've got that down pat you can go onto to practicing fillet welds. This is how i learnt to weld when i was 13-14 while on work experience through school, with in a couple days of this i was confident in my welding and the guys where happy enough with my improvements to let me stick weld on the jobs they were working on.

If the amp's are right you can rest the rod on the material after the arc has started and simply push the rod into the weld as you drag it along slowly.

Get on youtube and watch all the videos by welding tips and tricks, the guys a champ and explains things very well.

You dont need to go to tafe to learn how to weld, only to learn what you could do to improve your technique.

If your running out of ideas of where to get scrap material from go and visit the metal wholesalers in your area, if they have a big plasma/oxy/laser cutter setup surely there will be some scrap circles they'll sell you for 5bux

One thing others have missed it preparation. You don't just stick two bits of metal together - you need to prep them first.

Get rid of all galvanising, chrome, paint and rust etc, try grinding a bevel in each piece so you have around 70% of the metal with a 'V' in it and leave say 30% so it butts up. You want penetration, welds just don't lay on top, they should melt the parent metal aka 'sink in'.

When welding don't allow your slag to cool down during a weld. If it does you should stop and chip it off, wire brush it and then take up where you left off. You can't weld over or near slag. When your good at it, you can control heat build up by using the rod and stop/starting your weld - but it is better if you can do this with amps. I've done it, but it was using a mates welder and he only had 8mm rods and I was only welding 3mm angle iron, so you have to play with it, otherwise you end up melting it and the metal all falling on the floor.

Don't do downwelds or upwelds until your really good at it. Try to only weld similar metals. Don't weld anything thinner than 2mm and probably 4mm until your good at it.

If you end up with any slag or splatter, use chipper and wire brush or angle grinder and get rid of it before you keep welding. If you have a slag inclusion in your weld you will have to grind that out and redo it before you continue. Some cheaper chinese rods - when your welding - you can see the slag falling into the weld as you go, you need a steady hand to push this around and control it. If your rods have been sitting around for a while they will have absorbed some moisture and will be harder to arc. Use a bit of scrap metal and burn the tip off by welding a 10-20mm run. Then transfer the rod and earth lead to your job and it will work fine.

Your blue rods could be satincraft - they are GP rod and good for a variety of jobs. Youtube is good for all this stuff, like others have said.

  • 4 weeks later...

All depends on metal thickness for your amps you can use a 2.5 electrode at 50 amps if it's thin but for 6 to 10 mm plate I would recommend 65 to 95 amps with 2.5 rods with 3.2 rods I would use 90 to 120 it's just a matter of learning. I'm a trade qualified metal worker and I found these settings to work well over the years. Also make sure and rods arnt wet or never where or it will make it difficult. Slow right down and have your angle around 70 degrees to the plate hope this helps

  • 4 months later...

Read the back of the box and it will tell you all about the sticks your using and diferent arc setting's, also when u first put the stick into the handle scratch the tip of the stick onto the ground (makes a easyer ark) also if you dont have something to heat the sticks like a oven type thing stick the metal on the job without welding it and it will heatup and get rid of all the moisture in the flux then its a matter of getting a decent arc and pushing the stick in whilst dragging it at a steady pace.

on a realy good one the coating peels itself of as you weld

also alot easyer if ur using a Auto helmet where it blacks out by itself and charges itself whilst you weld

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, apparently they do fit, however this wont be a problem if not because the car will be stationary while i do the suspension work. I was just going to use the 16's to roll the old girl around if I needed to. I just need to get the E90 back on the road first. Yes! I'm a believer! 🙌 So, I contacted them because the site kinda sucks and I was really confused about what I'd need. They put together a package for me and because I was spraying all the seat surfaces and not doing spot fixes I decided not to send them a headrest to colour match, I just used their colour on file (and it was spot on).  I got some heavy duty cleaner, 1L of colour, a small bottle of dye hardener and a small bottle of the dye top coat. I also got a spray gun as I needed a larger nozzle than the gun I had and it was only $40 extra. From memory the total was ~$450 ish. Its not cheap but the result is awesome. They did add repair bits and pieces to the quote originally and the cost came down significantly when I said I didn't need any repair products. I did it over a weekend. The only issues I had were my own; I forgot to mix the hardener into the dye two coats but I had enough dye for 2 more coats with the hardener. I also just used up all the dye because why not and i rushed the last coat which gave me some runs. Thankfully the runs are under the headrests. The gun pattern wasn't great, very round and would have been better if it was a line. It made it a little tricky to get consistent coverage and I think having done the extra coats probably helped conceal any coverage issues. I contacted them again a few months later so I could get our X5 done (who the f**k thought white leather was a good idea for a family car?!) and they said they had some training to do in Sydney and I could get a reduced rate on the leather fix in the X5 if I let them demo their product on our car. So I agreed. When I took Bec in the E39 to pick it up, I showed them the job I'd done in my car and they were all (students included) really impressed. Note that they said the runs I created could be fixed easily at the time with a brush or an air compressor gun. So, now with the two cars done I can absolutely recommend Colourlock.  I'll take pics of both interiors and create a new thread.
    • Power is fed to the ECU when the ignition switch is switched to IGN, at terminal 58. That same wire also connects to the ECCS relay to provide both the coil power and the contact side. When the ECU sees power at 58 it switches 16 to earth, which pulls the ECCS relay on, which feeds main power into the ECU and also to a bunch of other things. None of this is directly involved in the fuel pump - it just has to happen first. The ECU will pull terminal 18 to earth when it wants the fuel pump to run. This allows the fuel pump relay to pull in, which switches power on into the rest of the fuel pump control equipment. The fuel pump control regulator is controlled from terminal 104 on the ECU and is switched high or low depending on whether the ECU thinks the pump needs to run high or low. (I don't know which way around that is, and it really doesn't matter right now). The fuel pump control reg is really just a resistor that controls how the power through the pump goes to earth. Either straight to earth, or via the resistor. This part doesn't matter much to us today. The power to the fuel pump relay comes from one of the switched wires from the IGN switch and fusebox that is not shown off to the left of this page. That power runs the fuel pump relay coil and a number of other engine peripherals. Those peripherals don't really matter. All that matters is that there should be power available at the relay when the key is in the right position. At least - I think it's switched. If it's not switched, then power will be there all the time. Either way, if you don't have power there when you need it (ie, key on) then it won't work. The input-output switching side of the relay gains its power from a line similar (but not the same as) the one that feeds the ECU. SO I presume that is switched. Again, if there is not power there when you need it, then you have to look upstream. And... the upshot of all that? There is no "ground" at the fuel pump relay. Where you say: and say that pin 1 Black/Pink is ground, that is not true. The ECU trigger is AF73, is black/pink, and is the "ground". When the ECU says it is. The Blue/White wire is the "constant" 12V to power the relay's coil. And when I say "constant", I mean it may well only be on when the key is on. As I said above. So, when the ECU says not to be running the pump (which is any time after about 3s of switching on, with no crank signal or engine speed yet), then you should see 12V at both 1 and 2. Because the 12V will be all the way up to the ECU terminal 18, waiting to be switched to ground. When the ECU switches the fuel pump on, then AF73 should go to ~0V, having been switched to ground and the voltage drop now occurring over the relay coil. 3 & 5 are easy. 5 is the other "constant" 12V, that may or may not be constant but will very much want to be there when the key is on. Same as above. 3 goes to the pump. There should never be 12V visible at 3 unless the relay is pulled in. As to where the immobiliser might have been spliced into all this.... It will either have to be on wire AF70 or AF71, whichever is most accessible near the alarm. Given that all those wires run from the engine bay fusebox or the ECU, via the driver's area to the rear of the car, it could really be either. AF70 will be the same colour from the appropriate fuse all the way to the pump. If it has been cut and is dangling, you should be able to see that  in that area somewhere. Same with AF71.   You really should be able to force the pump to run. Just jump 12V onto AF72 and it should go. That will prove that the pump itself is willing to go along with you when you sort out the upstream. You really should be able to force the fuel pump relay on. Just short AF73 to earth when the key is on. If the pump runs, then the relay is fine, and all the power up to both inputs on the relay is fine. If it doesn't run (and given that you checked the relay itself actually works) then one or both of AF70 and AF71 are not bringing power to the game.
    • @PranK can you elaborate further on the Colorlock Dye? The website has a lot of options. I'm sure you've done all the research. I have old genuine leather seats that I have bought various refurbing creams and such, but never a dye. Any info on how long it lasts? Does it wash out? Is it a hassle? What product do I actually need? Am I just buying this kit and following the steps the page advises or something else? https://www.colourlockaustralia.com.au/colourlock-leather-repair-kit-dye.html
    • These going to fit over the big brakes? I'd be reeeeeeeeaaaall hesitant to believe so.
    • The leather work properly stunned me. Again, I am thankful that the leather was in such good condition. I'm not sure what the indent is at the top of the passenger seat. Like somebody was sitting in it with a golf ball between their shoulders. The wheels are more grey than silver now and missing a lot of gloss.  Here's one with nice silver wheels.
×
×
  • Create New...