Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok before i get flamed i have read and searched alot about Tomei cams on this site but haven't really found the answer i was looking for, im wanting advice from the people that have done cam changes and wished/changed out other parts the same time.

Ill be purchasing some cams in the next couple of weeks and i was wondering if i should replace anything else in the head whilst I'm changing them over? Seen as these motors are getting on in there time would it be ideal to change the hydraulic lifters? Obviously the o rings and the cam oil seal get replaced but would you replace anything else? I work for Nissan so getting genuine parts for cheap isn't a big deal unless people recommend aftermarket brands to be better!

Would adjustable cam gears also be a good idea too whilst changing cams?

I'm pretty much building the car and motor over a few years so time doesn't really matter. I'm looking for 300kw but on a safe tune of say 250kw i know people will say don't bother with cams with that low power spend your money else where, but I'm trying to build something a little different with as much mid range as i can get!

Atm i have:

Apexi power fc

Z32 afm

FMIC

3 inch exhaust

040

Splitfires

Garrett 2871 with a op6 rear housing that I'm going to get rebuilt and highflowed again to the specs of a 3076

Next:

Tomei pon cams 256 degree duration and 8.5mm lift both inlet and exhaust

6 Boost manifold with external gate

Nismo 555cc injectors

Adjustable cam gears?

Probally a few other things i have forgot too.

What else can get me more mid range over raw power?

Criticize my set up people and give me some feed back.

Any help would be greatly appreciated

Thanks

Adam

Edited by Ad's
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/376101-tomei-pon-cams-s2-rb25/
Share on other sites

I would happily drive that far also lol.

Don't bother with the cam gears or anything else. Valve springs would be the only other suggestion. Some people do them with the head still on. I just decided to take mine off and rebuild it.

I wouldn't care driving 50km in my situation atm! Just when the rentals move out next year and the mrs and i move in i know i will have bugger all money to drive 5 min down the road for fuel! Ill price up new valve springs on monday PM-R33 and compaire the difference!

Any other recomendations?

Cheers for the feed back guys.

E85 for $3 a litre for a daily driven car is pretty much pointless. Only 5% of the time im driving the car will i need the benefits of E85. CBF with drums hanging around my garage/house either lol.

Id probably pay as much as 1.50-2.00 /L if it was at the bowzer.

How much is Eflex over east?

Last time down at my servo with E85 it was $1.26/L and before fuel jumped in price bout 6-8 weeks ago id say the eflex was $1.16/L its cheap for 105ron i think??? or is it 108ron?

E85 for $3 a litre for a daily driven car is pretty much pointless. Only 5% of the time im driving the car will i need the benefits of E85. CBF with drums hanging around my garage/house either lol.

Id probably pay as much as 1.50-2.00 /L if it was at the bowzer.

How much is Eflex over east?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi GTSBoy, Excuse my ignorance but what does a "Bad" Knee point mean ? 
    • HFM BM57 has a "bad" knee point, IIRC. It's not the same thing as the later R chassis MC.
    • The ATTESSA is functionally identical to R34; there were a bunch of JDM models that continued ATTESSA including Fuga/Q70, Skyline/Q50, Cima etc as an option. All with Auto only and I think mostly for snow regions. AFAIK there were no AWD VR30DDTT sold in Australia - it is on my to do list to check regs for racing a LHD car in Targa/ATR/AASA/CAMS events because if I can get the auto to work it would be interesting to run a 4wd car The Ecuteck TCM tuning is the same model as their ECU tuning, they already have it for R35 and Dose's favourite, BMW. You buy "points" to allow your computer to be tuned, buy either a bluetooth (phone app) or bluetooth+USB+Key (phone and PC) dongle, and pay for a tune that will be locked to your tuner ( ). You can also access the tuning software yourself but 1. it is mega expensive and 2. these computers have a billion parameters that intersect, so how could you ever spend enough time on it to get a decent result.
    • Or, is it a case of what it is like owning an R series Skyline? NFI what the previous owner has done or fiddled with... Ha ha ha After reading through this thread, I went on a bit of a research about the Q50/Q60. Now I'm quite intrigued by them! Is the AWD in them more like a WRX where it's always AWD, or is it more like the ATTESSA in the GTRs? By the sound of this TCU tuning, this sounds like a case of someone has made some real software for it, and you just need the right piece of hardware, and then you license that specific vehicle/TCU. Or is this a case of the software will be really expensive so only a few tuners have it, and you still have to pay a license per vehicle?
    • By popular demand.. it was a coil. Got my hands on 1 new OEM coil, replaced with the one that made the less noise difference when I unplugged it while the car was running and started the car up. No stutter and the engine light was gone. I guess I’ll buy the other 5 they have lol
×
×
  • Create New...