Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

My Apexi has let me down. I am going to get a new pod filter. Too much talk about this 3A filter on other websites but I haven't come across much users using them with skylines. Also a worker at a auto store suggested that the 3A test were kind of bs and proven to have different results on different cars...

Some filters come rated with a max hp rating and what not. I need something which will, just work for anything and need something that will filter. Anyone have any suggestions?

I am verily considering a arc box...

Please dont close this and ask me to search, I have and most people are talking about the using stock air box with a good panel. I don't want to use my stock box. Also the people in the Rb25 dyno thread all say pod filter, not many are specific...

Edited by SargeRX8

With filters you either sacrifice filtration for flow or vice versa. The better ones are in the middle. Every filter is a restriction (running no filter is the best power you will get as there is no restriction).

People look into filter choice WAY to much. Thinking they will magically add a noticable amount of power changing from one to another (unless you had a really shit one in there before). I've ran my car on the dyno back to back with the filter removed and there was no difference so it must be doing ok - It's a Spectre one by the way.

All the major brands are just as good as the next; K&N, Blitz, Apexi etc. Just pick what suits your budget and what will fit well.

I have a 3A filter, i got it because no one ever had a bad word to say about them, beats paying ridiculous prices for named brands for little/zero difference. What i do know is from personal experience say away from the green HKS foam style filters. They filter jack shit. btw are you sargeRX from gotgames?

People look into filter choice WAY to much. Thinking they will magically add a noticable amount of power changing from one to another (unless you had a really shit one in there before).

/end thread

I changed from an apexi pod to a KN panel

1..on sale at repco

2...you can wash it

didnt make any noticable KW difference though did lose a couple on dyno but this could be a variety of things.

i also find the panel nice and quiet and has a smoother transition onto boost..but yeah differences are minimal..

Yea apexi is rated highly here

What happend to yours?

I dont know why or how but possibly due to heat the gap between the filter and afm was just enough to let foreign particles pass through and cause damage to my turbo, minor damage but damage none the less. I've never had issues running the standard neck style filters. Even when putting evening back together I noticed a gap between the filter and afm so I had to silicone seal it. Yes I am running a gasket. It was the standard applied one, now I made a new rubber one. Also now I over tightened it and one of the gold grommets which holds the screw is turning so f**king shit f**k. Some guy from malaysia is selling the apexi pods, new in box for 50 but sorry I dont give money to that peasant counterfeit country.

Yes I am sargerx8 off gg lol, 1BAD33 now.

Edited by SargeRX8

silicon seal ? ..there is a gsaket on the airbox you should use there..I had similar problems when i forgot to put the gasket in oneday...also I had those screws spinning, but should be alright as long as you push the thread back in, maybe superglue or something should hold it

Its a rubber gasket piece thing, I added my own silicone shit to it to seal it off completely. Really bodgy the design of these screws. You've got metal thread held lightly in plastic.... Seriously.

Who else noticed the spelling mistake on FANNEL on the apexi filter? I had two of them both had the same typo. Now I see some using FUNNEL. Did they correct it or are these fake units? Most of the fake shit on eBay is listed as HKS style APEXI style.

Edited by SargeRX8

i recomend getting any decent panel filter for your stock air box.

I've got a K&N in mine and i'm pushing 350+rwkw

there isnt really any need for a pod, the extra surface area you get with a pod is negated by the fact that you're sucking in more hot air vs slightly less air but cooler. so in reality they're going to give almost identical results.

i've had foam pods in the car before, the turbo spooled slightly earlier but power dropped off because the pod was just sucking in a lot of hot air.

plus when i compare what gets caught in the panel filter vs the foam one, i'd choose the panel one anyday. it does the job of actually filtering what goes into the engine. foam ones catch nothing. you're better off running some panty hoes over your AFM if you've got a foam filter.

I wouldn't get a foam filter. When you think about them, they will have a path all the way through and dirt will eventually find its way through. A pod filter is the same as a panel filter just round. Mine is shielded properly from the engine and has a top cover too with a pipe from underneath to the front bumper.

silicon seal ? ..there is a gsaket on the airbox you should use there..I had similar problems when i forgot to put the gasket in oneday...also I had those screws spinning, but should be alright as long as you push the thread back in, maybe superglue or something should hold it

Epoxy will work perfectly.

Its a rubber gasket piece thing, I added my own silicone shit to it to seal it off completely. Really bodgy the design of these screws. You've got metal thread held lightly in plastic.... Seriously.

Well it's not really dodgy considering they are not supposed to be done up that tightly. I've never over-tightened mine and hence have never had a problem.

Also, I wouldn't trust 3A pod filters anymore. I used to think they were fine until my mate decided to buy one for his 32. Lasted 2 weeks before the turbo (Greddy TD-05, so not even that big) sucked the filter paper out of the frame and into the turbo. It didn't cause any damage as it was on the dyno at the time so the tuner shut it off straight away and pulled it out. Mate thought it was probably just a dodgy unit seeing as he couldn't find anyone else with the same problem, so he took it back to the store and got it replaced. Same thing happened again the first time he pulled full boost in 4th, but this time he was on the track. He is just about finished installing the new engine and turbo... whistling.gif

there is nothing wrong with apexi pods. i'ev personally used them on probably a dozen of my own cars (and 2 at a time on my GTRs). they don't need to be done up with a fking breaker bar. they should seal just fine. are you sure it was genuine?

i would either just buy another genuine apexi filter (if you're worried I have a few spares and can happily flog you one - I buy mine direct from apex in japan).

or buy a K+N pod filter. they filter well, are cleanable and last forever. some people have trouble with the filter oil but it's not rocket science. I've used K+N and never had problems, just don't over-oil it. just like don't over-tighten the apexi pod. some people think more is better and tighten the fk out of everything, overfill their oil, etc. it's a recipe for headaches.

i recomend getting any decent panel filter for your stock air box.

I've got a K&N in mine and i'm pushing 350+rwkw

The GTR airboxes are different. A Gtt or gtst airbox will not make 350rwkw.

I am using an Apexi Pod with no issues and making good power (245rwkw on 98 and 280rwkw on E85).

brezza are you using only the stock snorkel as well or something custom?

Mine is a R32 GTR

i'm using the stock airbox and still with the stock snorkel that goes under the headlight and into the front bumper. i've taken that resonator thing out behind the front bar and infront of the wheel.

the tuner tested whether any gains were to be had from opening the airbox and the car still made the same power.

so the R32 GTR airbox isnt very restrictive IMO

My Apexi has let me down. I am going to get a new pod filter. Too much talk about this 3A filter on other websites but I haven't come across much users using them with skylines. Also a worker at a auto store suggested that the 3A test were kind of bs and proven to have different results on different cars...

How have you proven that your apexi pod has let you down? Did you take the filter off on the dyno and there was a large power difference?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ha, well, it's been.... a bit of a journey. Things have taken much longer than I'd hoped. I'll probably put up a thread at some stage. Hopefully soon. The car's not done any kms since my update in June though, put it that way.
    • Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
    • Those comp test results are not hideous. Whether they are accurate or not (ie, when that comp tester says 140 psi, is the real pressure120, 140 or 160?) is unknown to us. The state of the battery used to crank it over is unknown, etc etc. Many people around here would say that the absolute values and the spread are perfectly fine to just add boost and keep going. I personally would be happier with a narrower spread than that, but even the diff between 125 and 145 is not terrible. That one cylinder at 125 though, has probably copped some damage relative to the others. You should inspect the valves seeing as you've got it open. Do you know how to measure installed ring gaps? That, and an inspection of the rings themselves, is how you will determine whether they need to be replaced. If you're not good to do these things, take the block and the pistons and rings to a shop that is, and ask them for the go/no-go on them. Do the bores need a hone at all? If so, you might well be justified in getting some different pistons in order to get away from the ring supply problem. Whether you're happy to spend a lot more money right now, on more gear, rather than less money, but an amount that looks stupid given that you will only get a handful of rings in exchange for that money, is for you to decide.
    • also possibly backed up to my filler and shat down it! 🤣
    • Ok so i would love some advice here please, i purchased an R33 a few months back and its had a few mods done to the engine, its an RB25det running a Master ECU, 1200cc injectors, bigger turbo, oil cooler, oil filter relocation kit, Spool H-beam rods, acl/ross pistons. When i removed the motor from the vehicle (as its getting a respray) i thought i would compression test it and these are the following results. Cylinder 1-145psi, Cylinder 2-143psi, Cylinder 3-125psi, Cylinder 4-145psi, Cylinder 5-140psi, Cylinder 6-135psi this test was done with the motor on the ground and powering up the starter motor. I dropped the sump and found broken oil squirters on cylinder 3,5 and 6. I was told my rings are probably worn so i stripped the motor completely to get a new set of rings for it. The trouble is no one has these rings anywhere and they have to be custom made by Ross over in the states and will cost about $600+$200 delivery. My question is how can i tell if my rings are at fault and if they are still ok and is this price ok for a set of rings?
×
×
  • Create New...