Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

I just got 2 yokohama tyres for $350 each and i told the guy i want the best traction tyres i could get, he said these were it. So he puts them on and i drive off and i rev the car upto 2-3k and try to launch good and they just spin like my old shithouse continentals. I was not fkn happy. I tried quite a few times on different types of road and they still sucked.

So i went back asking for alternatives and he was saying unless you buy a proper semi slick tyre any other street radial will do the spin same. Im really kind of shitted off at this guy as my car only has 181rwkw and there must be heaps of people out there that can get traction with street tyres with the amount of power i got.

I dont have too much experience with tyres but in my old turbo silvia which was auto i had bridgestone grid II's and i would stall it up to 3k easily and it would just slingshot off the line, sure it didnt have as much power but it still had no problems getting off the line.

My skyline is also auto and i want to beable to do this. So i want to know what tyres should i get for $350-400 each in 235/45/17 that will fix this problem.

Thanks

Matt

  • Replies 61
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

If the tyres you bought were new then you need to actually run them in a little before they are actually effective. To do this you need to drive them around for maybe 30 mins or more (I'm not really sure how much) so that the tyres get heat all the way through them. Also all new tyres come with a protective coat (to stop deterioration in transport) and if you drive right out and do a launch it won't work too well because you've still got the protective coating. This goes away pretty much after a short drive too.

Many of the "best performing street tyres" need to get a little bit sticky before you can launch and expect it to "slingshot".... I've got Michelin Pilot Sports on my car and I'm quite happy with them. I had Bridgestone Potenza RE01's before and I was happy with them too.

i was driving for more then 30mins.......and i smoked it up a bit so they got plenty of heat through them.

I am aware that once they get "warn in" they will grip a bit better but if i wait for that and they still dont give me the traction i desire i cant exactly take them back to the tyre shop

Thanks

Matt

unfortunately my rims arnt wide i think they r only 7.5 or 8" at the most.

I dont know much about tyres and he told me 235's were the widest i could go on my rims.

BTW i have the stock skyline shocks/springs etc if thats any help.

I dont know if pineapples would help me a great deal either? some people say they work and others say they cant notice the difference.

I have the same problem mate.. :D

and i have 265/35/18

I bought firenza tyres and i can fry them all the way through 2nd gear without really trying :D i do have 212rwkw but even when i had 165rwkw i still had issues losing traction into 2nd and launching issues..

I want GRIP, my mate has 223rwkw and can rip it off the line and doesnt lose traction through gear changes, he had federals 255/17 i think u can at least go 245 with your 8" wheels. He now has Eagles or something just cheapo ones but seem to be ok.. i think it MAY have something to do with his full sick mechanical diff but not sure

Let us know if u find a solution

I have got Yokohama A539s on 235/45 R17 in my GTST and couldn't be happier with them. Good grip in all conditions and have performed pretty well a willowbank, even with 36psi still in them. I also have camber adjustment at the rear to "straighten" them up a little. They are on 8" rims also.

i'd suggest widder tyres i have 235/45 17's as well ive tried a few different tyres and its very hard to get traction off the line, i have Dunlop Lemans tyres atm, but still cant get off the line anything around 3000 upwards (on boost), if theyre 7.5" - 8" wide, someone correct me if im wrong but you should be able to get a lot wider tyres than 235's i know i can...245's, 255's, 265's.

Get Dunlops...... FM901's. You can either get the hard compound or the soft compound, I get the soft and these tyres shit on my old bridgestone 500*** can't remember the name but I took them to the bridgestone guy up the road and he said they were worth over $500 a corner and they were the really good Jap spec tyres, better than in Aust. As soon as I put these dunlop W10's on the car felt so much more grippy in both wet and dry conditions. The FM901's are the replacement of the W10's, so go for them.

i was driving for more then 30mins.......and i smoked it up a bit so they got plenty of heat through them.

I am aware that once they get "warn in" they will grip a bit better but if i wait for that and they still dont give me the traction i desire i cant exactly take them back to the tyre shop

Thanks

Matt

Hi Matt, road tyres take at least 500 k's to "run in". They give off oil and other lubricants used in their manufacture. So they have to heat cycle a number of times to make sure the "slippery stuff" is cooked off. When they are new the more you "smoke em up" the worse the grip gets as buckets loads of lubricants all come out at once. So run them in.

Thanks for all your help fella's i took the car for another fang just then and as soon as i slightly even stall it up, even to 1.5 - 2k they just spin like mad........

But heres my dilemma. What if i decide not to take them back (he said bring them in monday and ill put ur old ones back on and refund me) and then after driving more then 500k's or so they still dont perform how i want them. I see that as a waste of $700 as i could have bought cheap simex's.

My main concern is that im going to willowbank in a week or 2 and i want to put down a good time. Ive spent the money on the mods and the car has the potential i just need the right tyres to get the launch.

I dont like the tread pattern of these tyres either. They have 4 striaght lines in the middle, no V type angled grooves. The model number for them is S1Z i wanted the V102's but they are unavailable from the warehouse and said these were just as good if better. But the tread pattern on the other ones look completely differnt heres a link:

http://www.yokohama.com.au/Tyres/tyre.asp?TyreId=26 <--- thats what i wanted

But i cant find any info anywhere about the "S1Z" it isnt even listed in the catalog and theres no info on the net either, so i guess they are an outdated or something.

Thanks

Matt

Guest two.06l
Thanks for all your help fella's i took the car for another fang just then and as soon as i slightly even stall it up, even to 1.5 - 2k they just spin like mad........

But heres my dilemma. What if i decide not to take them back (he said bring them in monday and ill put ur old ones back on and refund me) and then after driving more then 500k's or so they still dont perform how i want them. I see that as a waste of $700 as i could have bought cheap simex's.

My main concern is that im going to willowbank in a week or 2 and i want to put down a good time. Ive spent the money on the mods and the car has the potential i just need the right tyres to get the launch.  

I dont like the tread pattern of these tyres either. They have 4 striaght lines in the middle, no V type angled grooves. The model number for them is S1Z i wanted the V102's but they are unavailable from the warehouse and said these were just as good if better. But the tread pattern on the other ones look completely differnt heres a link:

http://www.yokohama.com.au/Tyres/tyre.asp?TyreId=26 <--- thats what i wanted

But i cant find any info anywhere about the "S1Z" it isnt even listed in the catalog and theres no info on the net either, so i guess they are an outdated or something.

Thanks

Matt

i run falken azenis on street and at drags for excellent grip and 1.7 60ft times... :flower:

Thanks for all your help fella's i took the car for another fang just then and as soon as i slightly even stall it up, even to 1.5 - 2k they just spin like mad........

But heres my dilemma. What if i decide not to take them back (he said bring them in monday and ill put ur old ones back on and refund me) and then after driving more then 500k's or so they still dont perform how i want them. I see that as a waste of $700 as i could have bought cheap simex's.

My main concern is that im going to willowbank in a week or 2 and i want to put down a good time. Ive spent the money on the mods and the car has the potential i just need the right tyres to get the launch.  

Hi Matt, have you considered that maybe it's not the tyres, but the suspension set up that is causing the lack of traction?

A few questions and answers may help;

1. What's the rear spring rate?

2. What's the rear ride height?

3. What's the rear camber set at?

4. What's the rear toe set at?

5. Do you have a rear subframe bush set (pineapples)?

If the answer to #1 is more than 200 lbs, then that's a problem.

If the answer to #2 is less than 355 mm, then that's a problem.

If the answer to #3 is more than 0 degrees, then that's a problem.

If the answer to #4 is not 0 toe, then that's a problem.

If the answer to #5 is not yes, then that's a problem.

There is more to a fast time than power and tyres, good news is it's easy (cheap) to fix compared to power and tyre upgrades.

Hope that helps some more.

Thanks for the reply sydneykid, i have the stock r33 shocks and springs and no pineapples, its stock in everyway......I didnt think it would be worthwhile changing the suspension for 1/4 mile drag as im not interested in circut racing or drifting.

would urathene pineapples really make a worthwhile difference?

Thanks for the reply sydneykid, i have the stock r33 shocks and springs and no pineapples, its stock in everyway......I didnt think it would be worthwhile changing the suspension for 1/4 mile drag as im not interested in circut racing or drifting.

would urathene pineapples really make a worthwhile difference?

Yes, they make a noticeable difference. As does removing the HICAS.

Standard springs are good, standard shocks are OK.

But what are the alignment settings?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • sold listed as a Tomei LSD 1.5 Way For 1998+ Nissan Skyline ER34 25GT RB25DE w/Open R200 https://www.ebay.com/itm/174006114594?campid=5338967980&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&toolid=10050&customid=&mkrid=711-53200-19255-0&loc_physical_ms=108689&loc_interest_ms=&campid=5338967980&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&toolid=10050&customid=71883f2ccc571356e0a757bc7adfdde2&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&loc_physical_ms=108689&loc_interest_ms= it went in like butter all gears, alignment, back lash etc, rotation and clearances correct, and if rolling all rotates smooth and free when coasting down road , clutch in or out over 10 mph smooth... its the binding, clunking and jerking from a stop that is most concerning, also seems like its going to tear the tires off in 10 miles of normal road driving. 
    • What 1.5 way? There's no such thing really as a 1.5 way, just different ways of explaining 2 ways with different ramp rates. HOWEVER. In any driving in a straight line your 1.5 or 2 or 1.7 way should have no clunking at all. With the clutch fully depressed the diff should be silent (unless it's welded but I'm assuming it's not). Something aint right here.
    • Clutch is a spec brand, new clutch system,( PP, flywheel, friction disc, etc. pull type) installed 100 miles ago, with no problems.
    • looking for some help and maybe some insight on others experience with a new LSD. R34 GT ran and drove beautifully, but always alot of grip loss due to the open R200 rear end, so I just installed a new 1.5 LSD way into the stock open R200 for a ER34. Simple. Everything seemed right. I test drove for the first time this weekend. as I started to back out the garage the first time slowly with tires straight it sounded and felt like I had a loose or half disconnected drive shaft...that was clucking around loose and shaking entire vehicle, and making it feel like the trans clutch was spontaneously slipping then grabbing very roughly while just letting out pedal slowly. I backed it out went to pull forward with the same noise, shake and slip grab feeling with hesitation, I turned the tires to back out more and then pulled ahead some same thing but worst because of added wheel resistance (which that I expected) puzzled … pulling it back in checking everything over and finding nothing wrong, I tried it the next day. same thing, couldn’t believe how it shook everything again making a terrible noise and making it feel like the trans clutch was slipping and grabbing, but I got it out of garage into the driveway, got it straight, drove forward and then reveres a few times in a straight line everything shaking , causing what felt like clutch slip and grab every time, sounded like right behind front driver tire and I could feel it in the floor board with my feet,... worst right when beginning to let clutch pedal out to engage slightly, shuttering and sounding terrible along the way…I managed to slowly get down the road, babying it the whole way, once I was rolling (out of 1st) seemed to be better and between shifts, then clutch felt closer to normal…not slip/ grab etc., but back down to any stop, straight road or turning, same thing. Made no difference if all tires were straight or if I was turning. All other gauge read out correct. with in 2 miles as planned I reached the empty parking lot and performed the break in procedure that came with lsd, essentially to drive in a figure 8 a bunch.  Did this, binding chattering, and shaking the car the whole way. I drove it back home seemed somewhat normal once I was in straight line and past 10 mph or so, and I know it will “bind” on corners and cause some tires squeal when turning especially from a stop, but when I begin to move it still causes what feels like the trans clutch to slip and jerk badly as well as shaking the entire car, and sounds terrible, that I didn’t expect. I used the fluid they supplied with LSD kit and did the breaking, planning to change fluid as they suggest after breaking, but wondering will it get smoother or less aggressive with use? maybe a 1.5 is just too aggressive for normal road driving?   I have a LSD that I put in my 71 cuda when I restored it, with amazing smooth , quite yet effective results. Different style LSD but that ones a joy to drive. maybe expecting too much from this R200?
    • Join SAU NSW for a flame-grilled feed & flame-spitting cruise! Sunday 17th August 2025 3:30PM Meeting Archies Flame Grille Sylvania Waters 4:45PM Cruise Departure 5:15PM Arrival at Cape Solander Kurnell Meet Location: Archies Flame Grille Final Destination: Cape Solander Kurnell *Disclaimer* There will be a lead and follow car so no one should get lost. If you would like to attend or bring others along please put your name down and a +1 as numbers will be needed prior! This is NOT a race and we will all be adhering to all road rules. If this is what you want please come to one of our many track days. This is an official SAU:NSW event and will be run under a CAMS permit. One of the things that really sets our club apart is our commitment to being true enthusiasts. When on normal roads we strive to maintain good relations with the authorities as well as the public in general. When attending one of Skylines Australia NSW events please try to: • Be aware of surrounding environment and act accordingly. • Drive courteously on the state’s roads as a true enthusiast should. • Understand how important it is to maintain the good name of SAU NSW and thus, treat others accordingly. • Any misbehavior will not be tolerated and you will be asked to leave.
×
×
  • Create New...