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Whats the best street tyres for $350-$400


MJ
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Hey guys,

I just got 2 yokohama tyres for $350 each and i told the guy i want the best traction tyres i could get, he said these were it. So he puts them on and i drive off and i rev the car upto 2-3k and try to launch good and they just spin like my old shithouse continentals. I was not fkn happy. I tried quite a few times on different types of road and they still sucked.

So i went back asking for alternatives and he was saying unless you buy a proper semi slick tyre any other street radial will do the spin same. Im really kind of shitted off at this guy as my car only has 181rwkw and there must be heaps of people out there that can get traction with street tyres with the amount of power i got.

I dont have too much experience with tyres but in my old turbo silvia which was auto i had bridgestone grid II's and i would stall it up to 3k easily and it would just slingshot off the line, sure it didnt have as much power but it still had no problems getting off the line.

My skyline is also auto and i want to beable to do this. So i want to know what tyres should i get for $350-400 each in 235/45/17 that will fix this problem.

Thanks

Matt

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If the tyres you bought were new then you need to actually run them in a little before they are actually effective. To do this you need to drive them around for maybe 30 mins or more (I'm not really sure how much) so that the tyres get heat all the way through them. Also all new tyres come with a protective coat (to stop deterioration in transport) and if you drive right out and do a launch it won't work too well because you've still got the protective coating. This goes away pretty much after a short drive too.

Many of the "best performing street tyres" need to get a little bit sticky before you can launch and expect it to "slingshot".... I've got Michelin Pilot Sports on my car and I'm quite happy with them. I had Bridgestone Potenza RE01's before and I was happy with them too.

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i was driving for more then 30mins.......and i smoked it up a bit so they got plenty of heat through them.

I am aware that once they get "warn in" they will grip a bit better but if i wait for that and they still dont give me the traction i desire i cant exactly take them back to the tyre shop

Thanks

Matt

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unfortunately my rims arnt wide i think they r only 7.5 or 8" at the most.

I dont know much about tyres and he told me 235's were the widest i could go on my rims.

BTW i have the stock skyline shocks/springs etc if thats any help.

I dont know if pineapples would help me a great deal either? some people say they work and others say they cant notice the difference.

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I have the same problem mate.. :D

and i have 265/35/18

I bought firenza tyres and i can fry them all the way through 2nd gear without really trying :D i do have 212rwkw but even when i had 165rwkw i still had issues losing traction into 2nd and launching issues..

I want GRIP, my mate has 223rwkw and can rip it off the line and doesnt lose traction through gear changes, he had federals 255/17 i think u can at least go 245 with your 8" wheels. He now has Eagles or something just cheapo ones but seem to be ok.. i think it MAY have something to do with his full sick mechanical diff but not sure

Let us know if u find a solution

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I have got Yokohama A539s on 235/45 R17 in my GTST and couldn't be happier with them. Good grip in all conditions and have performed pretty well a willowbank, even with 36psi still in them. I also have camber adjustment at the rear to "straighten" them up a little. They are on 8" rims also.

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i'd suggest widder tyres i have 235/45 17's as well ive tried a few different tyres and its very hard to get traction off the line, i have Dunlop Lemans tyres atm, but still cant get off the line anything around 3000 upwards (on boost), if theyre 7.5" - 8" wide, someone correct me if im wrong but you should be able to get a lot wider tyres than 235's i know i can...245's, 255's, 265's.

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Get Dunlops...... FM901's. You can either get the hard compound or the soft compound, I get the soft and these tyres shit on my old bridgestone 500*** can't remember the name but I took them to the bridgestone guy up the road and he said they were worth over $500 a corner and they were the really good Jap spec tyres, better than in Aust. As soon as I put these dunlop W10's on the car felt so much more grippy in both wet and dry conditions. The FM901's are the replacement of the W10's, so go for them.

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i was driving for more then 30mins.......and i smoked it up a bit so they got plenty of heat through them.

I am aware that once they get "warn in" they will grip a bit better but if i wait for that and they still dont give me the traction i desire i cant exactly take them back to the tyre shop

Thanks

Matt

Hi Matt, road tyres take at least 500 k's to "run in". They give off oil and other lubricants used in their manufacture. So they have to heat cycle a number of times to make sure the "slippery stuff" is cooked off. When they are new the more you "smoke em up" the worse the grip gets as buckets loads of lubricants all come out at once. So run them in.

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Thanks for all your help fella's i took the car for another fang just then and as soon as i slightly even stall it up, even to 1.5 - 2k they just spin like mad........

But heres my dilemma. What if i decide not to take them back (he said bring them in monday and ill put ur old ones back on and refund me) and then after driving more then 500k's or so they still dont perform how i want them. I see that as a waste of $700 as i could have bought cheap simex's.

My main concern is that im going to willowbank in a week or 2 and i want to put down a good time. Ive spent the money on the mods and the car has the potential i just need the right tyres to get the launch.

I dont like the tread pattern of these tyres either. They have 4 striaght lines in the middle, no V type angled grooves. The model number for them is S1Z i wanted the V102's but they are unavailable from the warehouse and said these were just as good if better. But the tread pattern on the other ones look completely differnt heres a link:

http://www.yokohama.com.au/Tyres/tyre.asp?TyreId=26 <--- thats what i wanted

But i cant find any info anywhere about the "S1Z" it isnt even listed in the catalog and theres no info on the net either, so i guess they are an outdated or something.

Thanks

Matt

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Guest two.06l
Thanks for all your help fella's i took the car for another fang just then and as soon as i slightly even stall it up, even to 1.5 - 2k they just spin like mad........

But heres my dilemma. What if i decide not to take them back (he said bring them in monday and ill put ur old ones back on and refund me) and then after driving more then 500k's or so they still dont perform how i want them. I see that as a waste of $700 as i could have bought cheap simex's.

My main concern is that im going to willowbank in a week or 2 and i want to put down a good time. Ive spent the money on the mods and the car has the potential i just need the right tyres to get the launch.  

I dont like the tread pattern of these tyres either. They have 4 striaght lines in the middle, no V type angled grooves. The model number for them is S1Z i wanted the V102's but they are unavailable from the warehouse and said these were just as good if better. But the tread pattern on the other ones look completely differnt heres a link:

http://www.yokohama.com.au/Tyres/tyre.asp?TyreId=26 <--- thats what i wanted

But i cant find any info anywhere about the "S1Z" it isnt even listed in the catalog and theres no info on the net either, so i guess they are an outdated or something.

Thanks

Matt

i run falken azenis on street and at drags for excellent grip and 1.7 60ft times... :flower:

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Thanks for all your help fella's i took the car for another fang just then and as soon as i slightly even stall it up, even to 1.5 - 2k they just spin like mad........

But heres my dilemma. What if i decide not to take them back (he said bring them in monday and ill put ur old ones back on and refund me) and then after driving more then 500k's or so they still dont perform how i want them. I see that as a waste of $700 as i could have bought cheap simex's.

My main concern is that im going to willowbank in a week or 2 and i want to put down a good time. Ive spent the money on the mods and the car has the potential i just need the right tyres to get the launch.  

Hi Matt, have you considered that maybe it's not the tyres, but the suspension set up that is causing the lack of traction?

A few questions and answers may help;

1. What's the rear spring rate?

2. What's the rear ride height?

3. What's the rear camber set at?

4. What's the rear toe set at?

5. Do you have a rear subframe bush set (pineapples)?

If the answer to #1 is more than 200 lbs, then that's a problem.

If the answer to #2 is less than 355 mm, then that's a problem.

If the answer to #3 is more than 0 degrees, then that's a problem.

If the answer to #4 is not 0 toe, then that's a problem.

If the answer to #5 is not yes, then that's a problem.

There is more to a fast time than power and tyres, good news is it's easy (cheap) to fix compared to power and tyre upgrades.

Hope that helps some more.

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Thanks for the reply sydneykid, i have the stock r33 shocks and springs and no pineapples, its stock in everyway......I didnt think it would be worthwhile changing the suspension for 1/4 mile drag as im not interested in circut racing or drifting.

would urathene pineapples really make a worthwhile difference?

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Thanks for the reply sydneykid, i have the stock r33 shocks and springs and no pineapples, its stock in everyway......I didnt think it would be worthwhile changing the suspension for 1/4 mile drag as im not interested in circut racing or drifting.

would urathene pineapples really make a worthwhile difference?

Yes, they make a noticeable difference. As does removing the HICAS.

Standard springs are good, standard shocks are OK.

But what are the alignment settings?

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