Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys,

I have query about the 3076 that I was sent. I am certain that I requested one with the usual 4inch anti surge, 6 fin compressor wheel with the .60 A/R housing, however I was sent the one in the image below.

It has the 7 fin inlet wheel (T04 wheel I think?) and .70 A/R compressor housing with a 4" inlet.

The exhaust housing is spot on and is the usual .82 that most of you guys seem to use.

post-59604-0-13352600-1315456144_thumb.jpg

My question is if I decided to use this turbo how much worse off would the response be compared to the newer style 3076 with the 4" anti surge and 6 fin wheel?

Is anyone running one like this and what sort of power do you make?

Couldn't find any info in other threads regarding how much power people are making with this turbo with this front housing.

Cheers

post-59604-0-13352600-1315456144_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/376583-gt3076-query/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 41
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

that will still make very similar power to the other version, there isnt much difference in them power wise

Thanks Titan.

What about response wise is there much difference?

Another thing will this turbo fit ok between the standard manifold and wheel arch / tower. I have the 10mm spacer. Reason I ask is because of the size difference in the A/R compressor housing size and it looks like It might cut it close..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/376583-gt3076-query/#findComment-6006186
Share on other sites

Personally I would return that 7 blade version and get the proper 6 blade version with the 4" ported comp cover...thats what you ordered and thats what you should get...there is some material on here about how the 7 blade versions are inferior...discopotatoe is the guy to speak to...hopefully he'll chime in...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/376583-gt3076-query/#findComment-6006273
Share on other sites

Titan is 100% wrong.

I had one, and it made 240rwkw. Maxed. Mater meth, and it made 250rwkw.

Then I got a real gt3076r, 6 blades, surge slots, etc, made 300rwkw. Attached water meth and made 320rwkw.

All on a 0.63 rear housing. Full boost by 3200rpm in 4th. Made 720nm and held that to the limiter.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/376583-gt3076-query/#findComment-6006411
Share on other sites

Ye the 7-blade one is not the one you want. Bad and nasty performance for what should be the same price for a proper 6-blade.

I actually thought they'd stopped making them in that option given the choices of 3076s out now with various trims etc.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/376583-gt3076-query/#findComment-6006438
Share on other sites

Thanks for the replys guys.

I have contacted them asking to change it to the correct .60 A/R housing. Will have to wait and see what happens.

Dude, you want a whole new turbo with the 6 blades. Not just the cover.

Ask them for the GT3037. Or CHRA 700177-5007

It looks like the one in my avatar.

Edited by The Mafia
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/376583-gt3076-query/#findComment-6007050
Share on other sites

Yes as Mr Mafia said get the real one which was and still is a HKS spec turbo , only sold through Garrett as well .

The real ones Garrett part number is 700382-10 using cartridge number 700177-7 .

Do it once do it right and think seriously about what he said about the 0.63 A/R turbine housing if lag troubles you at all .

A .

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/376583-gt3076-query/#findComment-6007100
Share on other sites

I had that issue in NZ back when I was trying to get a GT3076R for my car, all the local outfits kept telling me either its pretty much the same or that it was actually the one I wanted - I had to order from the states to get what I wanted in the end. There is definitely a pretty noticeable difference between the two, using this version would be regrettable.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/376583-gt3076-query/#findComment-6007235
Share on other sites

Dude, you want a whole new turbo with the 6 blades. Not just the cover.

Ask them for the GT3037. Or CHRA 700177-5007

It looks like the one in my avatar.

Thats what I told him mate. And now he is going to exchange the entire turbo (1 with the proper 6 fin and .60 A/R) so it should all be fine.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/376583-gt3076-query/#findComment-6007661
Share on other sites

Yes as Mr Mafia said get the real one which was and still is a HKS spec turbo , only sold through Garrett as well .

The real ones Garrett part number is 700382-10 using cartridge number 700177-7 .

Do it once do it right and think seriously about what he said about the 0.63 A/R turbine housing if lag troubles you at all .

A .

Thanks Disco.

I was wanting to still use the .82 housing, my mate has that housing on his 3076 and the lag on that doesn't trouble me at all, so I will stick with that.

And I would have to stick with the Garrett as thats all I can get a replacement for.

What is the difference between the 700382-12 (700382-5012) and 700382-10 (700382-5010) products? Is one 52trim and one 56trim? is there any difference?

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/376583-gt3076-query/#findComment-6007716
Share on other sites

Do it once do it right and think seriously about what he said about the 0.63 A/R turbine housing if lag troubles you at all .

I don't know what reasoning you have for that, but its not the best recommendation you've made imho - especially after having had both myself. The .82 only loses any noticeable amount of go below 3000rpm, where isn't a place RB25s are "about" anyway. Above there the .82a/r feels nicer, is nicer on the engine (Mafia needed WMI to suppress detonation, I and others have battled boost creep with .63s) and naturally is capable of more power.

I never looked back from upgrading from the .63 to the .82 - though again the OP has obviously also experienced a "real" 56T with .82a/r hotside and knows how nice a setup they are to drive.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/376583-gt3076-query/#findComment-6007757
Share on other sites

I don't know what reasoning you have for that, but its not the best recommendation you've made imho - especially after having had both myself. The .82 only loses any noticeable amount of go below 3000rpm, where isn't a place RB25s are "about" anyway. Above there the .82a/r feels nicer, is nicer on the engine (Mafia needed WMI to suppress detonation, I and others have battled boost creep with .63s) and naturally is capable of more power.

I never looked back from upgrading from the .63 to the .82 - though again the OP has obviously also experienced a "real" 56T with .82a/r hotside and knows how nice a setup they are to drive.

I just sent the incorrect turbo back to them and told them I want the real 56T one which had the part number 700382-5012

I also told them to stick with the .82 rear housing. I wanted to keep the .82 housing as it has the potential of more power if I desire it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/376583-gt3076-query/#findComment-6008036
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Get something that can spray a bit, something like I'd use is a pressure pack for weed sprayer. I use one with degreaser. Spray it on (make sure you're fully covered up, you don't want that shit on you, especially face/eyes). Alternatively, a paint brush will help here as you can brush and work at the stuff quite aggressively.   Be aware, citric acid can eat metal away and will cause it to rust more later. So make sure you neutralise it when done, and give the fresh metal some protection. That hanger, I'd honestly bin and get something like the Frenchy's drop in replacement. The tank, again, I'd look for something else to replace it with. Remember, as metal turns to rust, it means there's less metal there now. So some patches of your fuel tank are likely to be quite thin.   Personally, Id focus on the front end of things, IE, how did the injectors get clogged if they're meant to be after a fuel filter. Then, once the front is sorted, I'd rig something up, even like a small surge tank, and make sure the engine is now running and all behaving. Then I'd replace the fuel tank and fuel hanger and pump. Also, I'd already be preparing to ditch your fuel filter...  
    • That's looking great! Are you planning to do things like all hidden wiring with it, or you're planning to have it look more like we'd expect an RB in an engine bay to look like?
    • Haha thanks everyone, I'll take everyone's suggestions into consideration. If I do eventually choose a car ill post it here update on the mods I do.
    • I found the ingredients at larger amounts from a Coffee Shop. 1kg Citric Acid for €8.50 500g Baking Soda for €2.50 I tried it out tonight distilled water (I got from my ACs) and dish soap. It does get bubbly with dish soap. In just two hours the hanger has improved significantly and rubbing against any remaining rust seems to flake it off. I'm going to leave it a little bit longer and see how it goes. I have read that someone even used this solution in an ultrasonic cleaner to clean a seized water pump which brought it back to life.
    • If you like more modern stuff than the R series, you should check out a V37 400R, they are pretty mod friendly
×
×
  • Create New...