Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 122
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Yeah, literally haha. Such a weird problem. It seems only to happen when warm and only on idle. Anyway I fixed up my shonky BOV return pipe(it was a piece of heater hose, had 3 kinks in it which got worse lol) by putting in a few PVC 90 degree bends here and there. Got a nice pipe with no kinks. Started the car up and it sounded very smooth. Temps were around 61C. I didn't want to get ahead of my self but it did sound alot better. Switched it off and will test it properly with more fuel in the tank as I head out to work shortly.

Spoke with DVS JEZ on the phone. He suggested I add some latency to my injectors(16ms). It made a huge difference in the smoothness of idle but didn't really help with the lean popping. It seemed to work but what looks to have happened was it pushed the lean popping pattern higher up into the rev range. It wasn't popping much at 2krpm but more so at 3500 etc. Hopefully this pipe has some effect on it which is a positive effect and hopefully it eliminates my stalling when clutching in.

Two skylines drove past today while I was working on the car and both were lean popping when cruising lol, maybe I am just being too fussy.

New bov return had no effect on lean popping... Something is throwing out the tune. It can't be the weather because it happens on warm days and even cold nights... I very much doubt it's misfiring. There is no effect at all when under load just idle and cruising low rpm...

checked that it actually is lean with a wideband?

The intermittent pop is more often than not referred to as the lean pop. I think I'm going to buy a wideband. I tested it with the stock afm and same issue but that doesn't rule it out. It would be odd though that my afm is causing issues under no load... But I do hear an electronic buzz under the bonnet... I need it checked out...

I've got a pfc so that consult port is useless I think. But on my pfc controller my timing is 15 degrees at idle which is normal. In all honesty its the stalling when clutching in between gears which is a problem and I feel the two issues are related because both started happening at the same time...

Can you check your TPS readings please?

See if it gives consistent readings on the handjob.

On the pfc I'm assuming this is labelled thro, if so idle is constant 0.35v. Didn't check when I give it throttle but I will today. I'm going to clean my aac and spend some time looking for split vac lines...

LOL nothing beats a good handjob sometimes.

Im not sure if the PFC shows THRO or TPS...... Ull need to have a good check and see whats what.

Ive had similar problems to what your having here with a dud TPS. It would show the right voltage at idle and at full throttle but in between it would give inconsistent readings.

I just went for a drive, this problem almost certainly only happens when the car is warmed up... I never usually do this but after a minute or two of warming up I gave it just enough to create 0 boost and vacuum and backed off the throttle and it didn't stall nor come close to it. Once it was warmed I done the same thing again and it almost stalled(rpm was about 300 maybe 400). I went to buy carby cleaner to clean up the AAC as I think my issue may be there. From what I may have read somewhere, the AAC does not have any role until the engine is warm. Is this correct? I'm going to check all my lines while the engine cools down a little now.

The PFC shows THRO. If that is the same thing then yeah I kept an eye on it(dangerous shit lol) while driving slowly giving it petrol and it would slowly and consistantly rise from 0.35 and I saw it get to 0.88 before I had to start watching the road. There was no erratic change in numbers. Very linear.

The AAC and the cold start valve both provide another way for air to enter the plenum (other than the throtle butterfly). The AAC is under the control of the ECU for idle speed control, the cold start valve is thermostatically controlled. It closes up as the car warms up. So it does tend to dominate idle speed control while it is open and as it closes up the AAC can start to gain some control.

Judging by that then it would be safe to assume my cold start valve is fine as the car is perfect when its cold/warming up. It is only once the car IS warm it plays up. I cleaned up my AAC before, was filthy as shit. Lets hope later when I drive it, she goes fine. I checked everything over and over, I can't see any split or cracked hoses anywhere. I read on the net that you can spray carby cleaner directly onto vacuum lines n shit when the motor is running and if the engine makes a odd sound when you spray on a certain spot, its a good indication there is a hole or leak there. Is this safe to try on a turbo car?

Yeah, safe - ish. Don't spray it onto your coils or other wiring connectors, because it is a highly flammable hydrocarbon and if you ignite it you'll ruin your eyebrows at the very least. Just a quick squirt on hose ends and other joints/gaskets will usually do.

Edited by GTSBoy

Yeah, safe - ish. Don't spray it onto your coils or other wiring connectors, because it is a highly flammable hydrocarbon and if you ignite it you'll ruin your eyebrows at the very least. Just a quick squirt on hose ends and other joints/gaskets will usually do.

Ill probably give the idea a miss as I really cbf cleaning that shit off, and it smells weird lol.

I was thinking of something. If I built a small circuit consisting of a few LED's ranging from red to yellow to green which will receive the AFM voltage signal as the input and work in such a way that when the volts are low the lights are red and when the volts and air rises the lights will go to yellow and green, could I use this as a clear display for me to monitor when I am getting effects of reversion to determine if its an issue? I don't think it will take long to make and I should have all the parts I need. I can just keep my eye on my power fc hand controller afm voltage and see what happens. My idea is this. When you clutch in the flow against the afm should be nothing really and read about what I think its .3v or .5v on idle. What I can do is watch my lights(or hand controller) for retarded random fluctuations when the throttle is closed which should tell me if air is hitting the afm. If I don't see any air hitting the AFM and the voltage is stable until the stall point then I guess I can rule out reversion as being the issue here and start looking deeper into a vacuum leak.

Just tested this out quickly with the car off. I blew compressed air through my recirc pipe and read 1600mv. Not a good figure but also not something to base anything on considering the car was off, turbo not spinning and no vacuum from the engine.

Edited by SargeRX8

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I have been being VERY quiet about what you're alluding to, as it is something that ticks me off... The number of cars from factory that run coil overs is HUGE! Most of them these days do... The other part that annoys me, is people saying "Well all the incabin adjustable suspension is illegal by blah blah blah"... If that's the case, then why can I buy a car brand new that can do it if, FULL STOP in cabin adjustable suspension is illegal...   Also, I could just chuck some aftermarket shocks in my car, throw the stock springs on, after my blue slip, dump my super low springs back in. Same shock and spring style setup... Hell, they could also be the same colour springs etc.     I'm voting, BlueSlipper didn't want to touch the above car for some reason. Whether it be some sort of bias against the car, the owner, them maybe having previously done dodgy shit and now they're being super careful in case they get slapped in the face by the Gumbyment again... Find a new blueslip place.   And can confirm as you had said, yes there are holy bibles of vehicle heights, and all sorts of other suspension stuff. Heck your run of the mill mechanic, and tyre shop has access to all of that stuff. It's how they do wheel alignments...
    • Funny story Heading to Sydney this morning on the HWY there was some slow traffic, so I gave it the beans and midway through my overtaking "power run" I lost all power It seems that I missed a hose clamp,  and the MAF and filter went WiFi To make this more problematic, the little tool kit that lives in the boot, is sitting in the sun room at Goulburn......LOL Luckily for me I found a bit of steel on the side of the road that could be used like a rusty and bent flat head screw driver to tighten it up enough that it got me into Sydney, it is now all tight like a tiger with the aid of a 8mm socket Note to self: Use my brain and double check stuff, and always keep that little tool kit in the car for when I have a brain fart
    • Oh, and as for everyone with their fuel economy changes, I switch between E10 and 98 in the company car. Even do when I had personal cars that could run on E10. You know what changed my fuel economy in any noticeable way? How I drove, and where I drove. Otherwise, say on full tanks of just back and forth from work only (So same trips, same sort of traffic), couldn't notice a difference that I can correlate to the type of fuel in use. In the current vehicle, that's over 42L of USABLE fuel. While 98 is all "more energy dense", it also has higher knock resistance as it takes more energy to get it to ignite too. The longer hydrocarbons, typically more tightly bound. So running the same ignition map, can also produce less power, if there isn't enough time to get it all burnt through properly, as yep, the flame propagation speed is different from lower octane fuel to higher (Higher has a lower flame propagation, due to the more tightly bound and harder to self ignite funs. This is also typically where, a vehicle that is designed purely to run on 91 (Whether it be E10 or normal 91) usually sees absolutely no real world difference in fuel economy for the normal man, woman, or dog.
    • We've got some servos around me that have 91 with E10, 91 (no E10), 95, and 98. At those stations the change from 91 E10 to 91, is typically around 8c/L.   But lets not get started on the price of fuel in Oz. It's ridiculous. All the service stations around me, bar one, the price of fuel has been over the $2 mark per litre for the cheapest, 98 being around $2.45. That one service station is a CostCo, fuel from it comes from the same refineries, and makes no pitstops, it runs great, including the 98. In fact, I've had no issues on CostCo fuel, but plenty of issues at other stations!. The CostCo fuel, was $1.65 roughly this week for 94 with E10. $1.88 for 98. Servos directly across from it, $2.10 for 91 E10, and $2.48 for 98. The part I had to laugh at? If I drive multiple HOURS away from Brisbane, say out near Nanango, or Kingaroy, or even out to Goondiwindi, the price of their fuel, is the same as what it is at the CostCo... Oh, and that BP servo at Goondiwindi is HUGE and goes through epic turnover of fuel, so it's not sitting there for weeks going to shit. And what blows me away, my mate is one of the people who drives the Fuel Tanker all around QLD, delivering to all those places. At the same company his previous role was doing the "local haul" deliveries... Same truck, same driver, same pickup point it all comes from. So you tell me, how the hell it is 60c/L CHEAPER for fuel, when nearly all else is equal, except they require a B-Double to drive half a day out of Brisbane, and half a day back, every second day, compared to the delivery that can be under 30 minutes drive from the fuel pickup point... Not to mention, go five blocks down the road, and Ampol to Ampol will vary 30c/L... And I've had this conversation with my mate... The way it's priced, is just typical, pure and utter rubbish... He also does runs from Brisbane, to all over QLD, down to Newcastle, Sydney, Nowra, Melbourne, Geelong, and even out to parts of the NT depending on the companies needs. His main stuff is all the longer distance away from home for a few days at a time, then when he's back, he loves to just pickup extra shifts wherever he can in whichever truck, hence all the weird different places.   Oh, as for getting E10 into all the fuels in Australia... It was very quickly highlighted, that we don't have enough biomass available to use to make E10 sustainably like they require, and it would dramatically cut into our, and the worlds food chain supply...   I vote we all just start running on liquid methane gas... Plenty of that just getting tapped off at tips from underground decay... (Note, this is pure just stupid commenting. I could very easily highlight the reasons its not a good idea especially on scale...)
    • Am I correct in assuming that the R35's are getting the classic skyline haircut off the odometer?  Quick search on carsales, there are 33 08 and 09 GTR's for sale, only 2 of them have more then 100,000km's on them (116,075 and 110,000 respectively).  And somehow there are about 25 for sale with around 60,000kms? Looks like the classic skyline haircut to me =/
×
×
  • Create New...