Jump to content
SAU Community

Manual R34 Gtt Diff Into R34 Gtv

Bayside Blue R34 GTV
 Share

Recommended Posts

GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted

It should do. although you need to make sure that all the flanges match. The GTT driveshafts are 5 bolt. I don't know about the GTV ones, but there are also 6 bolt (GTR) flanges and 6 bolt (which is really 3 pairs, as used on S chassis cars) and it is remotely possible that Nissan were licking cane toads when making the GTVs and used one of the other flange types. More likely that they just used the normal 5 bolt though.

Tailshaft flange should be the same. They'd need serious toad usage to change that.

The diff housing should just bolt up - they're all just R200 housings bolting to the same sort of subframe.

iseekool Veteran

iseekool

Posted
Posted

Should bolt straight up. GTt and GTv are the same.

Essentially a GTv is a non-turbo GTt.

On a side note:

If you change your diff ratio you might need to reconfigure your speedo.

The ABS (3 channel) system "might" need tweaking too as the ABS sensor monitors the speed of the each front wheel and the rear drive shaft, the system "could" potentially crap itself when ABS is kicks in, due to mismatch in sensor readings.

dori34 Grand Master

dori34

Posted
Posted

ABS does not need tweaking,

as long as the diff has the ABS sensor on the front side of the diff then you are sweet should bolt in straight up and off you go provided the halfshafts match the driveshafts on the car.

i went from a 4.11 diff to a 4.36, did not notice any change in speed however when in 5th gear, doing 100km it would sit higher revs (3200rpm or so compared to around 3000rpm or under with the old diff)

iseekool Veteran

iseekool

Posted
Posted

ABS does not need tweaking,

as long as the diff has the ABS sensor on the front side of the diff then you are sweet should bolt in straight up and off you go provided the halfshafts match the driveshafts on the car.

i went from a 4.11 diff to a 4.36, did not notice any change in speed however when in 5th gear, doing 100km it would sit higher revs (3200rpm or so compared to around 3000rpm or under with the old diff)

I was refering to actual road speed. ie. if your your speedo reads 100km/h, is your car's speed relative to the ground 100km/h.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      NC MX5

      By MBS206 · Posted

      My guesstimate, with no real numbers to back it up, is it won't effect it greatly at all.its not a huge change in position, and I can't see the air flow changing from in turbulence that much based on distance, and what's in front of it. Johnny and Brad may have some more numbers to share from experience though.
    • dbm7
      Automatic Power Button Light Flashing

      By dbm7 · Posted

      Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Duncan
      R34 Plug Identification

      By Duncan · Posted

      Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
    • joshuaho96
      Automatic Power Button Light Flashing

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Pull codes via the self-diagnosis procedure. As far as I can tell this is just a sign of transmission issues but not a code unto itself.
×
×
  • Create New...