Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 199
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

C'mon now, play nice everyone :)

God damn pool cheater Martin! Real pool players use their fingers :(

In all seriousness I personally don't see using slicks as cheating. However I do give a big thumbs up for those that run good numbers on street radial tyres :D

I'd be happier with an 11.9 on my road rubber than a mid/low 11 on slicks.

Adrian,

When Ben ran his 2JZGTE powered JZA70 Supra (was a cover car for Zoom) to a 10.8 @ 120-130mph it was on M/T ET Streets and his 18" chrome rims on the front. He ran it that way for a few meetings if I recall correctly. I don't remember him reporting any major car handling issues.

I didn't think it mattered what you did to get a faster time, as long as you got it..isn't that what drag racing is meant to be? (at air).. i reckon if you can get slicks matt, power to ya..

Why deny yourself a faster time, when you can have the slicks and get better traction... Just a thought.

I personally like knowing that my best numbers (in my sig) have been run in the EXACT same trim as I drive the car on the road whenever it comes out of the garage.

I don't view using slicks, purpose drag suspension, removing exhausts, pulling out the interior and so on... as cheating. However, I PERSONALLY "do" see these things as taking the shine off MY end result, hence I choose not to do them - at this stage.

There are sooo many variables that people can, and do, view as "cheating" that it's ridiculous to call ANYTHING cheating! You may as well say that any change from the original standard vehicle is cheating :(

Once again, I PERSONALLY, believe that comparing 1/4 numbers from a car using parts/mod's that are NOT legal (never have or will be) for road use (slicks and Nitrous as examples) vs. a car using only mod's that "CAN" be made legal (larger turbo and ECU upgrade as examples) is pointless. It's my opinion and I'm entitled to it. I'm certainly not taking anything away from those that do use non-road legal mod's, faaar from it!

The bottom line is... Run what ya brung and hope ya brung enough :D

If a Skyline (or any car for that matter) runs quick numbers over the 1/4 I don't care whether it's using nitrous, C16, LMS, no interior, slicks, fluffly dice, a dancing Elvis on the dash or the driver has his eyes closed the entire length of the strip. If it runs the numbers then I'm impressed!

I'd like to clarify that I do not race on the street. My preference to run in street-trim at AIR has nothing to with illegal street activities.

Can't really say whether front runners are needed when using the ET Streets...

However, if they're like Nitto's, then you should be fine!

Cheers,

matt

No-one's answered my question about the need to run front runners with M/T ET Streets.

Any ideas? Martin?

Adrian

Its pretty funny, this whole street trim debate - street trim can include Hoosiers or Nittos - and there isnt alot of difference between the numbers, that I have seen, to cars of a similar state with slicks. (eg, Ben Ellis's R34) But are hoosier's or nittos tyres that you would drive around on all day? Still street trim.

A lot of the old school drag heads, run cars that are designed to go really fast in a straight line, and not much else. They may be in street trim, but they corner like a dog, and with high stall converters and a high power band, leave alot to be desired in the street driving.

Matt, throw the slicks on there FFS, its a drag strip - start fighting fire with fire, and lets see what a car that can be driven in peak hour traffic, or down to the local shopping centre can do if it wants:)

Would you put a drag car on a circuit with drag slicks? why drag as a street car on a strip with street (or circuit) tyres? You know what can be achieved in street trim, why not up the ante and see what the potential is?

What ever you choose to do, good luck [subliminal message]

go the slicks, you know you want to, dont be weak

[/subliminal message]

If you use conventionals on the back eg ET Streets and radials on the front, you are asking for big trouble. Wait till you get half a turn of lock on towards the deep end due to the sway, then go check your undies. ANDRA tracks like WSID wont let you do it over 110mph (?) as a safety issue. You will struggle to make a hit on the HPI list in your car on radials Matt, so why not cut a proper time. Compare apples with apples.

Steve, you should actually try driving a car with a properly setup stall in it on the street. Ive got a 4000rpm, Henrys got a 3800rpm, we can both drive away from the lights at 1200rpm no problems. In fact a good street auto NEEDS a high stall to be some fun.

Nothin like clickin top gear 10 feet out of the hole with both tyres alight

Fair comment, I have only driven one car with a high stall converter (from what you are saying obviously not set up well), and it didnt do much until you put your foot in, then it did alot:) made traffic a bit tricky, there is on way I would have attempted to drive it in the wet - had enough trouble with my GT falcon, and that only had a 1500rpm converter (not quite what you would call high stall though).

Sounds not to bad.

A little better than my old VS after it had a little bit of work done to it.

I was getting around 16L-17L/100km's, then it was a pig under 3500rpm.

I really should have opened her up and upped the comp ratio. :(

Problem was it then spat a rear IRS crossmember then a gearbox then the diff, so I couldn't afford to open her up :(

Full of dissapointments that car.

At first it was around the 14l/100km's.

So thats definately squeezing the throttle then, not simply resting your foot on it. :) I have to admit I like squeezing the throttle. :)

Mind if I ask what sort of mods?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I was using the wiring diagram I have So 12.74V is coming into the rear Fuel Pump relay as I measured.  When I turn the key to ON im getting 0.6V to the Fuel Pump plug; which i assume is backfeed voltage and doesnt include the 12V from ignition power.  The rear relay is working and being triggered.  From the diagram I clearly see the rear relay 80 = Rear Relay going into the Body/H loom (R-27) 27 = Fuel Pump plug going into the Body/H loom (T-20) 40 = Short Connector (R-27) I'm reading 12.74V on the blue/black wire which is the power for the Fuel Pump   From this diagram I can see the Ignition relay goes into the front and up to the ignition  2 = Fuel Pump Relay <1M> (R-27) 37 = ING Relay <1M> I started from the pump using this reference Which the way I read it (referencing Nissan wiring color codes) is: Pin Wire Color Function 1 B/P (Black/Pink) Ground 2 L/W (Blue/White)        ECU Trigger 3 SB (Sky Blue) Fuel Pump 5 L/B (Blue/Black) 12V Constant Tested SB to SB on Fuel Pump for continuity - confirmed Tested negative on Fuel Pump to 12V battery and L/B - confirmed 12V Pulled the relay putting 12V between Pin 1 & 2 and testing continuity on Pin 3 & 4 - confirmed relay   So that has me looking at this part of the circuit to understand whats happening here...and im still confused. From best I can tell; the disconnect is back to my previous diagram; between Ignition Relay and Fuel Pump Relay...which yet again; afaik is where the immobiliser should.    Thats what I was trying to explain to GTSboy; im not trying to fix it myself; yet I seem to have to get a Masters in Electrical Engineering (while im busy doing my actual job of DevOps & Cloud Engineering) somehow.  I just wanted more expert opinions; or more so that what I tested is correct and proves it to something around that area; to go back to the alarm tech (for a 3rd time) that he needs to fix it. He keeps telling me its not the alarm. He lives on the complete other side of the city so i understand not wanting to make a trip but as I said before if its the alarm it should be up to him to fix it. But he's adament its not; even though I pointed out the FP was immobilised through the original alarm. To my mind; it seems that the ECU is sending the signal; but the ignition is not getting 12V down the line.       
    • Maybe also really stiffly sprung track cars. Get the inside wheel up in a corner and all the fun stops. Also me sometimes (rarely) when I have to stand on the brake to convince the diff to drive the wheel that is still on the ground when I'm trying to diagonally get over severe driveway entrance, etc.
    • I feel like I'm missing something. You had an authorised installer come out and install a new alarm. Post install the car doesn't start, and you aren't getting the installer back to fix what they did wrong?
    • So either way it is gearbox out and look what is wrong?  I know about the input shaft bearing. Even before swap/new clutch the it sounded exactly like this: So is that inout shaft bearing or the other was installed backwards?  And can some please tell me the part number for that input shaft bearing? The gearbox is small box from R34 N/A and number is FS5W71C. Thank you  
    • I am yet to see anyone ever regret a quaife or helical. ...other than drifting/skidpan duties. I kind of want to upgrade my factory helical with a Quaife (but really it's not ultimately that different, and is a MASSIVE UNDERTAKING), that's how good the hype is about them, that I want to try them 'just to see'  
×
×
  • Create New...