Jump to content
SAU Community

The Evolution Of "night Fury"

jez NF
 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 674
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

jez NF
jez NF

Moving into my new house mid July....so stay tuned......will be spend on car time soon Cheeky photo opportunity

jez NF
jez NF

The furkid has also grown !!

jez NF
jez NF

As far as the coilovers go - in a nutshell chalk and cheese over stock suspension with lowered springs that I was running to date. The goods handles like it is on rails - would be absolut

Posted Images

jez NF Proficient

jez NF

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks for the heads up Dale.....btw - what are the disadvantages of going with a 20mm on the rears?? Is there a massive difference in performance etc. Will it even be noticeable? They have access to the fronts..waiting on the rears (want 22mm).

  • 2 weeks later...
jez NF Proficient

jez NF

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Bored of waiting for the sway bar install and the wing is still work in progress so took the car out for a drive this evening.....few pictures :)

That ass :wub:

b1ab3db8-0490-4458-85ba-979698abb61a_zps

Kicking myself for not taking my camera...was such a nice evening !!

77c1a4fe-b4d8-4e0a-862f-d1e44c577ee9_zps

gtr judd Proficient

gtr judd

Posted
Posted

Don't quote me on this, I'm no suspension guru but from what I remember a big front sway bar and stock/small rear will increase under steer. So make sure you go a a decent size rear......no one likes under steer.

jez NF Proficient

jez NF

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Don't quote me on this, I'm no suspension guru but from what I remember a big front sway bar and stock/small rear will increase under steer. So make sure you go a a decent size rear......no one likes under steer.

Yeah thats for sure Justin....I have read up a fair bit and for what I gather the stock fronts are 18mm so if you go a 24mm solid or 27mm hollow front they are more than sufficient and rears should be 20 solid at the very least to make any significant difference - though I have ordered 22mm solid anyways.

No clue when they will get here though :/ bummer

Daleo Grand Master

Daleo

Posted
Posted

Yeah thats for sure Justin....I have read up a fair bit and for what I gather the stock fronts are 18mm so if you go a 24mm solid or 27mm hollow front they are more than sufficient and rears should be 20 solid at the very least to make any significant difference - though I have ordered 22mm solid anyways.

No clue when they will get here though :/ bummer

The supply issues Whiteline have been encountering are very close to being over; if you like; PM and I can give you some background on why it is happening.

jez NF Proficient

jez NF

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Swaybars are arriving early next week - car booked in for Wednesday morning (YAY!!)

Might be getting my guards rolled today (if all goes well) or possibly next week as well...so can get the rears out a bit more and possibly lower the car a tad.

jez NF Proficient

jez NF

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Gave the rear guards some good old fashioned "hammering" this afternoon....works a treat if you grind little cuts strategically along the "metal lip" bit which basically allow it to bend backwards in sections rather than attacking the whole piece as one - (as Brad and I found out halfway through)....should not chew up the tyres now.

df14db85-83aa-4884-a3dc-6531e822ecb2_zps

There was a little bit of paint flaking from the undersides despite our best efforts with the heat gun. You could not really see it unless you squatted on all fours - but I am crazy....so a light sanding and rattle can spray job was done on the insides of the lip and the underside of the arch.

672c3e16-d133-4b46-a23e-4fda41494662_zps

Manuel Kasko Grand Master

Manuel Kasko

Posted
Posted

Awesome idea about the slight cutting.

I tackled the whole thing at once and it was a big job that took a lot of patience.

What technique did you use?

Pushing hard against the outside and just tapped away with a hammer on the inside?

jez NF Proficient

jez NF

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Yeah....wrapped a hard bit of metal with soft cloth and after heating the guards held the outsides with a fair bit of force and let loose with a fairly heavy hammer on the insides. We tried the left rear as one bit and boy was it a pain in the arse !! Halfway through we decided to cut sections and man did that help. The right was a breeze with this new technique and wrapped up nice and tight.

A good job overall and definitely no scrubbing etc...even when it squats while launching :woot:

Yeah had the guard roller but ended up not being used.

jez NF Proficient

jez NF

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Had the new sway bars installed this morning.

Rocked up first thing and parked amongst some interesting company......

20131030_090132_zps392be334.jpg

Up up and away.....

20131030_100736_zpsfb817477.jpg

Wish I had one of these bad boys at home (hoist)....would make life SO much easier :/

6d9027f5-f15a-42d7-b6df-e713558674d4_zps

Out with the old..............

20131030_095454_zpsa77ae458.jpg

In with the new......

4e2a069e-ca76-4c08-824b-ad2f6cc1b782_zps

Back on solid ground and ready for a test run.....

24b5fbe8-1b2d-496d-a659-3450919150d1_zps

Verdict: Freaking awesome !! Massive difference !! Virtually no body roll and much tighter lines through twisties.

Hard on the rear and medium on the fronts is the right combination in my opinion. Glad I went with medium on the front because I can feel the slightest bit of "stiffness / harder to turn in" compared to before. I reckon the hard setting would be too much.

jez NF Proficient

jez NF

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Small update:

Painted the spacers on the front the same colour as the hub to "disguise" them as far as possible.

On another note....how hard is it to flare the lip / edge of the rear arch??

Something like this.....

DSC08746.jpg

DSC08729.jpg

trustr32 Rising Star

trustr32

Posted
Posted

It will take a lot of patience skill and it'll more than likely need filler and paint after unless you really know what your doing. In fact allow for paint no matter how good you are lol.

jez NF Proficient

jez NF

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Hahaaa...yeah Brodie....will work on that hurdle when I get to it....but it looks real nice so knowing me that will be my next project.

Picture of how the spacers on the fronts look now........

20131114_180857_zps80e5de8c.jpg

Spent this evening down at the workshop getting the wing project moving...taking forever !!

BUT PROGRESS IS BEING MADE................

20131114_171149_zpsff356ae3.jpg

Ensuring that it is well reinforced and that the light still works so after a few teething issues it is now well on track....

20131114_171133_zps0ec6fec5.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • brillo
      Leak from Tokico BM50 Brake Master Cylinder

      By brillo · Posted

      Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Gantai
      R33 GTST Steering Rack (49001-19U05) Rebuild?

      By Gantai · Posted

      PXL_20250828_063541093.TS.mp4
    • Gantai
      R33 GTST Steering Rack (49001-19U05) Rebuild?

      By Gantai · Posted

      Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • PranK
      R35 GT-R production ends after 18 years

      By PranK · Posted

    • SteveL
      Leak from Tokico BM50 Brake Master Cylinder

      By SteveL · Posted

      I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...