Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Actually Stao, you are probably most qualified to comment on this but what do you make of my & SimonR32's power delivery?

It seems that both of us made pretty good power through the midrange but didn't make much more at all from then onwards. Most dyno graphs I have seen that are using your turbos seem to make good power right the way through to redline (ecept in cases where boost control is an issue).

I will post up my graph tonight but it is quite similar to the one SimonR32 posted.

Simon's made 261rwkws on a stock Rb20det. That is equivalent to 300rwkws+ on an Rb25det. Excellent result.

Check all results from ATR43G3s in my thread, Your result with Rb25det is poor and 50kws below average. I don't know whats wrong with the whole package rather then the turbocharger alone. At this stage since its made more power from the car that it came out of, then, I don't think its a turbo issue.

  • Replies 105
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Simon's made 261rwkws on a stock Rb20det. That is equivalent to 300rwkws on an Rb25det. Excellent result.

Check all results from ATR43G3s in my thread, Your result with Rb25det is poor and 50kws below average. I don't know whats wrong with the whole package rather then the turbocharger alone. At this stage since its made more power from the car that it came out of, then, I don't think its a turbo issue.

I definately agree, I don't think its the turbo either.

I might get a test pipe made up to replace the cat just in case that is the issue & I will test the intercooler as well to see if there are any restrictions.

Simon's made 261rwkws on a stock Rb20det. That is equivalent to 300rwkws+ on an Rb25det. Excellent result.

Check all results from ATR43G3s in my thread, Your result with Rb25det is poor and 50kws below average. I don't know whats wrong with the whole package rather then the turbocharger alone. At this stage since its made more power from the car that it came out of, then, I don't think its a turbo issue.

Here is the graph with the BP98 tune vs the E43

SAM_0019.jpg

Edited by SimonR32

For example, you believe your fuel economy is good. If I were getting 400kms to a tank, I'd be annoyed. I get 600kms to a tank. Difference in tune.

WTF 600km to a tank?!?

The tanks are supposedly 65L but I have heard of people literally running out of fuel and getting stranded then only getting 59L in.

So you are getting less than 10L/100km and thats if you run the tank completely dry.

Does anyone else get this? Maybe I drive too hard lol Trent said he spent a lot of time making it efficient on fuel.

Do you do mostly freeway driving?

yeah if i do hwy i can get that

when i did VIC to NSW i got 560kms (from RSM) and the tank wasnt empty and fuel light wasnt on yet

and that was constant 110km/h up the highway

but i would not get that in city driving

I really have no idea how you get this economy. Mind you all my driving is traffic and around my area (parramatta, merrylands etc). 600km...., my mate gets that from his 11 golf gti and vw brag about the 600km fuel economy, and you guys are telling me a skyline can do it??? f**k me lol I want in! oh and with my fuel light on I only get 53L into the tank. Could have sworn r33 are a 55L tank..

600k's to a tank in a R33 gtst is easy, I was getting it after tuning the car myself.

Its all about the road tune.

100% this.

I don't do any freeway driving, I actually get worse economy on the freeway sitting at 100/110 (haven't sorted out that part of my tune yet). But my daily trek to uni is mostly 70/90km/h cruising. I don't get muuuuch difference between highway cruising and stop start traffic conditions though, maybe about 580-590 for driving around town. I'll hit full boost a couple times a day, other than that I drive it like I would any other car. The trick is to set your tune up to the way you drive and the roads you drive, it's very difficult for a tuner to do that for you, especially on a dyno.

My petrol tank is 55L, I have come very close to running it dry lol. I usually fill up as soon as the light comes on, usually takes about 50L to fill up.

I actually made a big mistake in my input here.

Ive got the SS2. This is how my situation stood and you tell ME what you think.

Initially the car was tuned at Advan Performance. On 11 PSI I made 244rwkw. Very nice figure. One would only imagine more boost would mean more power, right?

Took the car to DVS JEZ exactly how it came out of Advan(Note my tune at Advan was on a failing fuel pump, this was rectified). We fitted a new actuator running 13.5PSI low boost and 19PSI high boost. I read my dyno wrong, had shit confused in my brain.

According to my dyno chart, I made 217RWKW on low boost(13.5psi) and 244rwkw on high boost(19psi).

Anyone able to tell me how or why the hell I made such little power on the dyno with MORE boost? Yet the car feels much stronger on low boost 13.5 @ 217rwkw than it did on 11PSI @ 244rwkw. One thing to note was that when the car was tuned on 11PSI there was some big timing, almost 20 degrees in some of the big areas. Jez said this is more than likely due to the car being able to provide this much timing because it was on such low boost. We could have ran the car on more timing for low boost but we tuned the car for 19psi, not 13psi and that could be an affecting factor. None the less, I was not getting the 300+rwkw I should be getting. I will be building my new full 3" intake pipe soon and seeing if this will have an effect on the car and its output. Maybe a little dyno unhappy but if there is 60rwkw to be gained, I WANT IT! We were also not getting very good traction on the dyno with two people in the car and 50kg of lead in the boot.

In reality there is a difference though. There's a lot of variables that can affect the tune, and what one tuner considers safe and good may just be a poor tune to someone else. I picked up 60rwhp and about 600rpm of response just by changing tuner. Even if I ignore the number because I changed dyno as well.

For example, you believe your fuel economy is good. If I were getting 400kms to a tank, I'd be annoyed. I get 600kms to a tank. Difference in tune.

Sarge' car mainly got a powertune due to cost of dyno time and his last experience(cost) with his last tuner.i have helped him out with cost at a loss to me and we still have to do a road tune to get better fuel economy.

I really have no idea how you get this economy. Mind you all my driving is traffic and around my area (parramatta, merrylands etc). 600km...., my mate gets that from his 11 golf gti and vw brag about the 600km fuel economy, and you guys are telling me a skyline can do it??? f**k me lol I want in! oh and with my fuel light on I only get 53L into the tank. Could have sworn r33 are a 55L tank..

I have set up my grandma driving to around15.5:1 up to 16.5:1 afr. Even when accelerating more than grandma would the afr is still around 15:1. Cruising is 16:1 give or take. 100kph cruise is stoich or 14.7:1 give or take 0.1. BUT!!! lol No but seriously now, when I give it a bootfull all that lean efficient grandma like tree hugging hippy driving afr goes out the window. At a quater throttle its around 13:1 till about 4 grand then down to 12:1 up from there. Same at half throttle. Three quater throttle sees about 12.5:1 till 4k then 12:1 after and full throttle is about the same except when it hits full boost at about 2200 to 2500 gear dependant it goes straight to 12:1. Cos the fuel tune isn't absolutely perfect it does dip to 11.6:1 when the vct changes at wot but then goes back to 12:1. To summarize under 4k rpm and low load is lean as f**k!!! And after 4k rpm and high load is 12:1. But all that bullshit aside keep it real lean and drive like you are on the dole to get good economy. Its just advice. It works for me.

One thing I did find last night was that the 2-2.5" silicone elbow I used to join the compressor outlet to the cooler pipe has a slight kink in it, like it has been bent slightly past 90 degrees. Now its not a big kink BUT at higher boost levels, could this cause enough restriction to effect spool of the turbo & hence effect the top end?

I would be saying that the turbo is possibly the issue... If you look at mine and your results the "curve" looks almost identical (ramps hard and then hits a wall)

08092010129.jpg

Jesus, they're almost identical!!

Hanaldo, I don't suppose you have a dyno graph from your tune at allstar do you? Might be pretty interesting to compare.

I just can't help but think that I'm missing something, even if you disregard the actual power figures there is a BIG difference in the shape of the graphs between SimonR32 & my graphs & almost every other graph I have seen for these turbos.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
    • So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
×
×
  • Create New...